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Today.... My 1940's Heuer Ref 347. Rugged looking watch with its battle scared dial. It has a Valjoux 22 under the hood. It's quite a large case for the time which gives it more of a contemporary

My 1961 Omega Constellation. Hard to believe its 60 years old. I don't think the Omega bracelet is correct . I believe these types came out in 62'. Doesn't matter since I like these more squared grain

1919 Burlington by Vortic Watch CO. USA

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Completed the watch today. Seiko Sportsmatic 411, 7005-8016P, lemon dial, eBay find, originally bought in 1971 in Singapore with original guarantee card, no web sales back then. Fully serviced and running very well. Very happy

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Recently acquired this junker. But I quite like it, so I'm going to fix it up and enjoy it.

Faux Eta 2824 inside is running fast, and presumed dry. I regulated it down to +10 (and put put a drop of oil on the dry rotor bearing so it was less noisy than my snow blower) and will either service it or replace it. Looks reasonably close to the real one, which I did try on when it was available. This is about $10, 250.00 less expensive than that one was, so I have a bit of change to cover lubricants...

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6 hours ago, Tudor said:

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Recently acquired this junker. But I quite like it, so I'm going to fix it up and enjoy it.

Faux Eta 2824 inside is running fast, and presumed dry. I regulated it down to +10 (and put put a drop of oil on the dry rotor bearing so it was less noisy than my snow blower) and will either service it or replace it. Looks reasonably close to the real one, which I did try on when it was available. This is about $10, 250.00 less expensive than that one was, so I have a bit of change to cover lubricants...

How do you open these? Just like the real one? I got two of them, wanted to give them to my almost 6 years old daughter who likes to play watchmaking game, but could  not open them. She sits in my chair, I am the customer and she works on my watches for £1, IF she is open and not tired. What surprised me that i was also charged 50p for my coffee. ? 

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8 hours ago, Tudor said:

1087083567_IMG_E06891.thumb.JPG.758d32e4ef391c9d8da74b728db9eb16.JPG

Recently acquired this junker. But I quite like it, so I'm going to fix it up and enjoy it.

Faux Eta 2824 inside is running fast, and presumed dry. I regulated it down to +10 (and put put a drop of oil on the dry rotor bearing so it was less noisy than my snow blower) and will either service it or replace it. Looks reasonably close to the real one, which I did try on when it was available. This is about $10, 250.00 less expensive than that one was, so I have a bit of change to cover lubricants...

This watch has something in common with the real one - both are hard to open? ?

 

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Not hard to open, with the right tools. 

Surprisingly, it is shower-proof. 

I’ll put on a proper 7030 tube and 704 crown for insurance. But it’s a nice knock-around watch to keep my nice ones, nice. 
 

To answer the question prior, that I missed, it uses the same die as a regular sub- 1680, 16610, and I assume the 116610 as well. This is an 116600 sea-dweller. The “deep sea sea-dweller” with the hoky “ring lock system” uses a larger die, which came in my set (and remains unused). The Tudor 9411 uses the size smaller, which I think also fits the datejust. 

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A black dialled Swatch Irony today.

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This is another design classic, and also a bit of a Marmite watch. Either you love it or you hate it. I'm a big Marmite fan myself.

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The only thing that lets it down in my opinion is the lume. Yes, the hands are nice and bright, but there is absolutely nothing else on the dail or case that is lumed, so it may well be sitting glowing gently on the bedside table next to you as you stare at it bleary eyed, but unless you reach out and grab it to figure out which way up it is, you have absolutely no idea what time it is. Even with it in your hand, you only have a vague idea.. 3am, maybe, or is it four.. who cares, its too early I'm going back to sleep.

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On 12/10/2018 at 9:25 AM, AndyHull said:

When I get back from my holidays, I'll order up a crystal for it.

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Well I guess I forgot to order a crystal for it, partly because it has one of the most ravenous arm hair eating band I've ever encountered, which kind of spoils the fun of wearing it. The monster hair puller is the original Seiko steel strap I might add. 

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However it is a classic Sekio 5 design (from 1981), and it seems a waste to have it just sitting around unworn, so I put a leather strap on it and I'll measure the crystal this evening and order one... probably.. if I don't get distracted by something else. 

Who knows, I might even have a crystal in stock, and be able to strike another ancient item from the todo list. 

Edited by AndyHull
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Rather surprisingly I did have the correct crystal in my stash.
I think that looks a whole lot better don't you?
One more item removed from the to do list.

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Here is another watch found in my dad's collection of abandoned watches.  When I discovered it, I saw that it would run fine but lost tons of time.  After dusting off my brain and recalling what my dad taught me and with a little help from the internet, I set about to tighten the canon pinion.  Whoooo...very scary, but I seem to have been successful.  It keeps great time.  After polishing the crystal, it is a real beauty.

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8 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Here is another watch found in my dad's collection of abandoned watches.  When I discovered it, I saw that it would run fine but lost tons of time.  After dusting off my brain and recalling what my dad taught me and with a little help from the internet, I set about to tighten the canon pinion.  Whoooo...very scary, but I seem to have been successful.  It keeps great time.  After polishing the crystal, it is a real beauty.

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You're not wrong, lovely watch.

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I stripped and cleaned the 1950s Metamec Electric clock today. It had been lying in "covid quarantine" since its arrival a few days back. 

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As well as the missing wooden detail, it also has a slight fault. The original cable was held in place by two recessed grub screws and a cable clamp of some description. The clamp is missing as is one of the grub screws, which is not a huge issue as I can probably replace those with something modern relatively easily.

However the second grub screw is stuck in place and its head has been stripped off, so I will need to figure out whether I want to try to extract it, or fill the holes and make some alternative arrangement to fit the mains flex. I'll probably go for the second option as it will be a lot more secure and less of an electrical safety risk. The idea of recessed live terminals is a little too 1950s for my liking.

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The more obvious chips and dings in the finish were touched up with shellac, which will probably need a couple of additional coats with a light sanding between them, and I still need to figure out what to do about the missing left hand wooden edge piece.

Looking at the small remaining  broken piece of it that I have removed, my best guess is that it is oak, so I can either find a bit from the log pile, or maybe take a trip to B&Q and see if they have any hardwood mouldings that could be knocked in to shape and stained. The most tricky part I suspect is not going to be shaping the replacement piece, but colour matching it.

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