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    • Apart from the grease/heavy oil aspect, silicone grease is very difficult to remove once applied.  If it migrates to other parts there could be problems in store.  I worked in the lubes industry and we avoided silicone whenever we could as we could not make other lubes on the same plant until it had been mechanically cleaned!  There are oils (not watch types) that contain silicone but these are normally for larger mechanisms.  HP1300 would be my choice, but if grease then 9501 as this is quite a soft/oily grease (silicone grease tends to be stiffer).  Just my thoughts.
    • It was 165 but the Chinese machine doubled it, as sometime happens when under 200. Personally I would call it fine and move on with other mov's but if you feel the urge consider inspecting all jewels and pivots under a microscope, using less oil, use 9415 on the pallets, and polish the inner side of the pallets where the impulse jewel touches. The latter is certainly too advanced for a beginner but fair to mention.
    • To remove the crown apply some heath with soldering gun where it stem screws, grab stem with serrated pliers, and unscrew. I don't know what means to make the crown fully round but it should be doable without removing the stem. 354-130 is the correct P/N.
    • Seiko's technical guide recommends S-6 silicon grease for the second reduction wheel and it would seem some of you would prefer a thicker oil like D5 or HP-1300 whereas @jdm and @CaptCalvin prefer a grease. According to CousinsUK 8301 contains graphite and is similar to Seiko S-4 and is the recommended grease for the first reduction wheel. Hmm... Since S-6 is a grease I believe a grease would be the better option. So, how about some Moebius 9501 as I have it?
    • So perhaps Moebius 9501 or Moebius 9504 grease?
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