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Feeling nostalgic today, oldie but a goodie, Hampden model 400 circa 1925 or so, in a Dueber gf hinged case, one of my nicest 'old' winder watches. Gotta get this one a leather strap, bracelet is a bit flimsy.DSCF0234.JPGDSCF0235.JPG

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1 hour ago, WileyDave said:

How about this?

Image result for orient em53

After doing some poking around at the site hosting that picture, I found this page describing the same watch in a different colour scheme: http://www.speedtimerkollektion.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=27400

EDIT#1: I notice that the description on that page says "missing plastic case", which makes me think that there's probably supposed to be an enclosing plastic case, thus explaining the long screws.

EDIT#2: As far as the case goes, it's probably supposed to look something like this: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f71/best-$50-ive-ever-spent-mechanical-39270.html. If you scroll down on that page, you'll see a picture where you can see one of those screws.

Edited by svorkoetter
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5 hours ago, svorkoetter said:

EDIT#1: I notice that the description on that page says "missing plastic case", which makes me think that there's probably supposed to be an enclosing plastic case, thus explaining the long screws.

My apologies for not searching deeper, did look like it was missing cover for case, or something? Good work, I'd like to have one of these! Now I'm embarrassed....but sometimes, that's how we learn.

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I agree it did at some point have a plastic casing and probably looked like if not exactly the same as the watch in that link.

I don't know why i liked it but i thought maybe it could be reused so i set about cleaning her up, the overall cost was about £35-40 including a strap so its no bank breaker. The NATO strap is getting on my nerves so i might change it for a rubber one but the timing is actually very good for the type of movement ( which is basically a Seiko ).

Im looking for my next side project so i may finally get around to making a case and starting from scratch, just gotta get motivated :)

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9 hours ago, ro63rto said:

Have been wearing this one the last few days. Old photo to save photobucket space emoji16.png

2016-06-25%2019.27.53.png

I've seem this one before. I liked it when you first showed, and still like it now. Its a great looking watch.

 

JC

 

 

Edited by noirrac1j
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Nice! What is the movement...17-Jewel Ronda? Bettlach?

JC

Thanks. Was only a tenner as it was sold as non functioning. Wound it up and off it went.

Not sure. I can't seem to open it and since the case is in almost new condition I don't want to risk damaging it.

Can't find any info either [emoji20]

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On my wrist today is my "online bits watch" - titanium case from Ickler, dial from eBay, hands from somewhere in the US, Sellita SW200 movement from eBay, Hirsch strap from somewhere in France!

I think it comes together rather nicely, and the movement runs with a dead-flat line on the timegrapher. Had to reduce the diameter of the dial, but otherwise a straightforward assembly job, apart from servicing the movement.

DSCF1826.JPG

DSCF1827.JPG

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On 7/15/2016 at 3:40 PM, ro63rto said:

Thanks. Was only a tenner as it was sold as non functioning. Wound it up and off it went.

Not sure. I can't seem to open it and since the case is in almost new condition I don't want to risk damaging it.

Can't find any info either emoji20.png

I had one with a case like that, but not same dial. The movement was a Ronda 17 jewel but I forget the calibre.

 

JC

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3 hours ago, mwilkes said:

On my wrist today is my "online bits watch" - titanium case from Ickler, dial from eBay, hands from somewhere in the US, Sellita SW200 movement from eBay, Hirsch strap from somewhere in France!

I think it comes together rather nicely, and the movement runs with a dead-flat line on the timegrapher. Had to reduce the diameter of the dial, but otherwise a straightforward assembly job, apart from servicing the movement.

DSCF1826.JPG

DSCF1827.JPG

Well I like it! The dial is uncluttered and together with the the plongeur-like hands give the watch a readability that would be hard to match at any price. The dead-flat timegrapher reading makes sense to me--it is a chronometer, right? :thumbsu:

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Just arrived in lot with a few junkers and a Hamilton, (thought i'd get away from the seiko's for a while). :)Somebody put some love into this Benrus, shines like new money! Hamilton has some winding issues but a really cool swirl pattern on dial. god I hate it when lugs get eaten by metal bands!:pulling-hair-out:DSCF0244.JPGDSCF0246.JPG

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Glad to have got myself one of these midsizes, bring some color into the summer!
Did the 30 mins overhaul buffing out most scratches, movement has poor amplitude but I don't have time for that right now.

P7193125.JPG

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    • An update, for everyone who contributed advice, and for those who come after with a similar problem. Based on the answers received, I decided to work on the face of the hammer first. I used a square degussit stone to guarantee a vertical surface to work against, and ground the face back until it was square across 90% of the depth. I was conscious of the risk of removing too much material.* After I'd got the shape how I wanted it, I polished the surface with lapping film. To cut a long story short, it did the trick and the hammer hasn't slipped off the cam since. Of course, that wasn't the end of my problems. Have a look at this video and tell me what you think is wrong. https://youtu.be/sgAUMIPaw98 The first four attempts show (0 to 34 sec.) the chrono seconds hand jumping forwards, the next two attempts (35 to 47 sec.) seem "normal", then on the seventh attempt (48 to 54 sec.) the seconds hand jumps to 5 sec. and the minute counter jumps to 1. The rest of the video just shows repeats of these three variants. I solved it by rotating the minute counter finger on the chronograph (seconds) runner relative to the cam.  I'd be interested to hear your opinions on that. It seemed to be the right thing to do, but maybe I've introduced another problem I'm not aware of. * What is the correct relationship between the two hammers and cams, by the way? Should both hammers strike the cams exactly at the same time, or is it correct for the minute counter hammer to be a bit behind the seconds hammer? In this picture, I removed the adjusting screw at 1, and the hammers are contacting the cams simultaneously at 3 and 4. I had to turn the screw down tight to achieve this condition after stoning the seconds hammer and replacing the bridge.
    • It was easy enough to pop off. Once I had the cannon pinion hanging on the blades of the stump, I got my #2 tweezers on the gear attached to the staff and levered it down. That way none of the force was on the brass wheel itself.   I reinstalled it and the bridge, and it looks like a small but reasonable amount of end shake. It also spins easily with a blower. It stops quickly, but I think that's due to the large shoulder and about what I'd expect from this wheel.  
    • Oh, right. For some reason I was picturing a monocoque case in my head. Good looking watch!
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    • Ok thanks Ross, I will give that a try!😁
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