Jump to content

Watch of Today


mk3

Recommended Posts

22 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

A seller on eBay had a bunch (10 or so) brand new Zodiac dials (with "red-dot") on offer, I think €25 each. Initially I thought that they were too expensive, but somehow I couldn't get the dial out of my head and bought it. At that time I had never heard of Zodiac and had no clue about the meaning of the "red-dot" either. Weeks later the dial arrived and it was actually very nice and clearly of very high quality. Perhaps one more? ....... Too late, all gone.

Did you find out why the red dot is there ?

I have a Seiko 5 just like the one you show above. They are simple, and cheap, but it's one of my favourite watches to wear. (But, oh those small diashock jewels 😨, I'm going to leave them in next time I clean it)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

Did you find out why the red dot is there ?

I didn't get any further than what I assume is a kind of commercial idea to make the watch more "recognizable". The red-dot" doesn't seem to have any function other than that.

As for the Seiko 5; the watch was bought from new and even thought I don't shy away from other brands and chronographs, Seiko's don't seems to have a great repair / parts reputation. Since I rotate watches, I think I'll let this one run until it doesn't and that could take a (much) longer time than what one may expect 😁

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Endeavor said:

As for the Seiko 5; the watch was bought from new and even thought I don't shy away from other brands and chronographs, Seiko's don't seems to have a great repair / parts reputation. Since I rotate watches, I think I'll let this one run until it doesn't and that could take a (much) longer time than what one may expect 😁

Well, that depends, but out of principle - being a Seiko fanboy - I'm going to disagree 😛

They're no less repairable than any other brand. In fact I'm working through a batch of 13 of them as we speak. Granted, I strip parts from donor movements (as that's cheaper than sourcing new parts) but they're so prolific that it's hardly an issue to get spares. It's a hell of a lot cheaper (and easier) than buying parts for swiss watches.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

57 minutes ago, gbyleveldt said:

I'm going to disagree

I'm glad to read that !

So far I've been reading horror stories about getting specific Seiko parts due to the fact that there are so many flavors of movements. The Seiko 5 is therefor the only Seiko I own, just for the reasons described above.

But you may have a point, since there a 20 trillion of them sourcing parts may not be such a problem (?)

An interesting thought ..... ! 🤔

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

I'm glad to read that !

So far I've been reading horror stories about getting specific Seiko parts due to the fact that there are so many flavors of movements. The Seiko 5 is therefor the only Seiko I own, just for the reasons described above.

But you may have a point, since there a 20 trillion of them sourcing parts may not be such a problem (?) An interesting thought .....

I agree with @gbyleveldt, I too am a fan of Seiko. They may not be the most elegant movements, but they are robust, cheap, and parts are usually easy to find.  (Usually ..... e.g date corrector wheels for LordMatics are rare as rocking horse poo. I made my own with some brass sheet and a file). The auto mechanism is so simple, but efficient - no sensitive reverser wheels.

Before trying my first chrono, I thought an intermediate step would be alarm watches - so I got two Seiko Bell-Matic. Great watches. Quite collectable,  I see the prices are rising.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

Well, hearing this that may open a whole new avenue to me, or was I on a "my wives" controlled budget? 🤭 🤫

I was going to ask your opinion of Seiko 6138,6139 chronographs (originally my first choice for a "learner" chrono), but I guess you haven't dismantled any ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Endeavor said:

You haven't met my wife yet ! 😲

I'm after a "Pogue" (the yellow dial one), but the prices keep rising. If you're wondering why "Pogue" :

As the story goes, during training for the Skylab 4 mission in 1973, NASA astronaut Colonel William Pogue used his 1971 Seiko 6139-6005 with a yellow dial to time various maneuvers and engine burns. While the Omega Speedmaster was the standard-issue watch for NASA astronauts at the time, Pogue didn’t receive his Speedmaster during training. When it came time to embark on the Skylab mission, both watches accompanied him into space: one as standard equipment; the other, a timepiece he knew and trusted. Thus, despite not being NASA-certified, the Seiko 6139 became the first automatic chronograph in space. This is how the watch earned its nickname, The Pogue. 

Also 6138 vs 6139 :

There are two primary calibers: the earlier 6139 introduced in 1969 (and produced until approximately 1977), and the 6138 introduced a year later in 1970. The difference between the two movements is that the 6139 only has a 30-minute chronograph register, and the 6138 has an additional 12-hour register. Both lack an active running seconds and in terms of specs, they beat at 21,600bph and have a power reserve of 45 hours. Both also have a day/date indicator. The 6139 has 17 jewels, and the 6139 has 21 (and 23 for some of the rarer Japanese domestic market variants like the 6138-8000). Both variants lack hacking and the 6139 does not hand wind. In terms of size, the 613X is 27mm in diameter and 7.2mm (6139)/7.9mm (6138) tall.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Endeavor said:

Interesting read ! That you for that !! 😉

The only reasonable looking "Pogue" I could find right now: https://www.ebay.de/itm/304532764651?hash=item46e79137eb:g:R0gAAOSwcixirci-

Ends in 42 minutes ......... tick-tak, tick-tak ....

A guy on gumtree was after swapping 2 nice ones for a used van ? Random ! about six months ago. He didnt want to sell for cash ? Again rather random ! I was tempted to go buy a crappy van for a couple of hundred quid. Nice watch, its on my list and i have been quite lucky just lately.  So Universe i know you are listening, i have a carboot tomorrow and i have been a very good boy this week 🙏

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@VWatchie; Glad we have curious members like you !! 😉

Very interesting article and now I do understand more about the "red-dot" and why they are more sought after.

In the article it is said that the models came with Quarz- and Mechanical-movements, one example was shown with an ETA 7750. The dial I bought fitted the 2824-2 directly so one wonders if the 2824-2 was one of other mechanical movements used?

That the point-models were discontinued in 1998 means that the new dial I bought must have been a NOS left over .... lucky me ! 😇

Thanks for your input 👍

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

About the Seikos. I've serviced two of them. Well, technically one, as the other was an Orient (my service walkthrough of it here). After this a swore never to touch any Seiko movements again. Although I'd really want to as they have so much going for them such as the magic lever and how the springs are integrated into the parts. IMO, superior engineering to the Swiss in many ways.

My objections are two; Firstly, the cap jewels for the third wheel and the escape wheel (at least the 7sxx movements). They are smaller than dust particles and just a pain to clean, oil, and replace.

Secondly, it seems impossible to find working mainspring replacements. I've tried several Generale Ressorts springs, a bunch of braking greases (including Kluber), and altering the bridle, but never succeeded. I always ended up reusing the original spring to get some sort of decent power reserve. Also, new barrel completes are far and few between and very expensive when eventually found.

I wish things were different as I really like the Seikos. I my opinion they make some of the most beautiful watches on the planet.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I'm wearing a "long wished" of mine, a (near-real) "Omega speedmaster date" and, obviously, it comes with a story 😃

See the story below as a fairy tale, it never happened for real ! We aim to be lawful citizen 😇

"Once upon a time there was a Swiss seller selling (very cheap compared to the chronometer grade ETA7750's) NOS Omega 1164 movements. The problem was that he was living in Switzerland, meaning that the movement would have become prohibitive expensive after paying all the compulsery EU-"dough". As it in fairy tales goes, he had a beautifull sister living in France 😀

With the movement secured, a high quality 7750 housing was found ...... but agian it was in Switzerland 😞 Prepared to pay the EU-"dough", it was sent. Perhaps with the aid of the Corona virus, the parcel went fairy-tale enough unnoticed through the various EU cash-in points 🙃 "

Both new Speedmaster dial & original hands were sourced within the EU.

With a new original chronometer-grade Omega 1164, new Omega Speedmaster dial & hands and with a new high quality "close-to-the-real" housing, my long-wished Speedmaster-date was born;

1906395817_IMG_18442.thumb.JPG.6f6f81459c0e7c51942c2961d6c8f7ec.JPG

IMG_1847.thumb.JPG.9a1d1c63b92db023d9b5e0ec544ef874.JPG

It isn't the "real" Omega Speedmaster-date, but mine has a very accurately running Omega chronometer-grade 1164 movement whereas the real Speedmaster-date has a "normal-grade" Omega 1152 caliber.

For a fraction of the price it's good & close enough for me. I'm very happy with it !! 🤗

BTW, both Omega calibers, the 1152 and the 1164 are based upon the ETA 7750. Not sure what Omega does to an ETA 7750 apart from their own Ω stamp in the main-plate and oscilating weight?

 

Edited by Endeavor
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, VWatchie said:

My objections are two; Firstly, the cap jewels for the third wheel and the escape wheel (at least the 7sxx movements). They are smaller than dust particles and just a pain to clean, oil, and replace.

Nah man, they easy with an auto oiler. And I know you know how to wield an auto oiler in anger!

5 hours ago, VWatchie said:

Secondly, it seems impossible to find working mainspring replacements. I've tried several Generale Ressorts springs, a bunch of braking greases (including Kluber), and altering the bridle, but never succeeded. I always ended up reusing the original spring to get some sort of decent power reserve. Also, new barrel completes are far and few between and very expensive when eventually found.

Yeah, 7Sxx mainsprings are a pain. Top tip, the mainspring is the same as used in the barrels of the newer NH3x movements. So you can just buy the NH barrels complete for around £15 and strip their mainsprings for re-use in a 7Sxx barrel. A cheaper route might be just to buy complete 7Sxx based watches; I’ve picked up a whole bunch for around $10 each with perfectly usable mainsprings. Truth be told, I’ve had pretty good luck re-using the original mainsprings and only had to resort to harvesting where I broke mainsprings. And the reason they broke is because they’re a pain to wind in the mainspring winder because they’re a lot thinner in height that Swiss mainsprings. But using a #6 arbour in a #7 winder seems to be the trick for these.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, VWatchie said:

My objections are two; Firstly, the cap jewels for the third wheel and the escape wheel (at least the 7sxx movements). They are smaller than dust particles and just a pain to clean, oil, and replace.

As I mentioned above, those small diashock springs holding the cap jewels on the third and escape wheel are a nightmare.

The general consensus is to leave them in place for cleaning, then oil them through the hole. Unlike @gbyleveldt, I don't have an automatic oiler, so I use an old oiler sharpened to a point that I prod through the hole. It works fine.

I have managed to use GR mainsprings successfully, but now we have the above tip about NH3xx mainsprings from @gbyleveldt, I'll be doing that !

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, gbyleveldt said:

Top tip, the mainspring is the same as used in the barrels of the newer NH3x movements.

That, is some seriously valuable information! Thanks! I will give the Seikos another chance now.

3 hours ago, mikepilk said:

The general consensus is to leave them in place for cleaning, then oil them through the hole. Unlike @gbyleveldt, I don't have an automatic oiler, so I use an old oiler sharpened to a point that I prod through the hole. It works fine.

I had no idea! Do they really get clean enough? This information definitely makes me inclined to try. Thanks! I have the Bergeon 1A automatic oiler (the size usually used to oil the balance cap jewels) but if I recollect correctly the needle is actually too wide for these minuscule Seiko cap jewels which made me invest in a Horotec Incabloc Oiler. An old oiler sharpened to a point should work equally well, but I guess I'm just crazy about tools 🙂

EDIT: Here's my video review of the Bergeon 1A automatic oiler.

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Late to the party, but this is my first proper luxury Swiss timepiece that I've owned. Only picked this up last month.

An Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42mm (The sapphire sandwich version). I’m over the moon 🌕 (no pun intended) with it and wear it almost on a daily basis. 

I love the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861 and the open exhibition style case back to see it in all it's glory. ❤️

Never, ever, ever going to even take the case back off this watch! Before any of you have thoughts of the horrors a newbie like me could cause this masterpiece of craftsmanship and engineering.  😆

image0.thumb.jpg.a8668e3a13459dfe3dcb5014be56a1a1.jpgimage0.thumb.jpg.7b003f4edb2d20f0894c5d445930e6f6.jpgimage0.thumb.jpg.1161b84f781b9f42e200e9419386b96a.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
    • Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
×
×
  • Create New...