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On 1/9/2022 at 7:50 AM, GomBoo said:

The above is an Ithaca Peak Turquoise Watch Cuff by Navajo silversmith Jerry Roan from Alltribes in Arizona. 

The other is also from Alltribes.  Vintage Zuni Apache Crown Dancer watch Cuff by Panteah 

If interested call & ask for Marilyn.

They have both vintage & new items.

 Roan was Vintage, Panteah is newer.

Fascinating pieces and unique indeed! Thank you for the information.

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Driving home from my College Station, we stopped in Lockhart--if you are not familiar with these places...you should be 😆 We stopped at Blacks BBQ and then to an antique store.  I picked up this Waltham Crescent St 21J watch.  Very nice.  10K gold filled case.  All for a hundred bucks (not including the BBQ)!!

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Edited by LittleWatchShop
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On 4/4/2022 at 7:45 PM, steve1811uk said:

Seiko 5606-7000 Doing a bit of in wear time testing whilst the dial is restored (that's another story that I will report on soon. Going to follow Mark's method that he showed on YouTube using the Sunnyscopa transfer sheets). Using a hand made date corrector star.

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Gave up with the transfer paper as couldn't get the laser printer to print the minute markers in high enough quality. Real shame as my friend did a great job of the dial artwork. Going to do something else with the dial, watch this space.

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Printing fine detail with a laser printer is a tricky business. Inkjets *may* give you a better result, but its not as simple as "more dots is more better".

There is a good description of the problem here. -> https://castleink.com/blogs/printer-help/inkjet-printer-resolution-dpi-printer-guide

You could try on a high resolution inkjet photo printer with everything cranked up to the max. I've had reasonable results on my colour laser, but they are still not quite as sharp as you would get on a commercial pad printed dial. This is in part down to the age of my laser printer, and also the slight colour registration issues that are inherent in laser printing.

I keep meaning to try with my inkjet photo printer (I bought the inkjet transfer paper ages ago), but I never seem to get round to it.

I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on.

Edited by AndyHull
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On 5/4/2022 at 10:21 AM, AndyHull said:

Printing fine detail with a laser printer is a tricky business. Inkjets *may* give you a better result, but its not as simple as "more dots is more better".

There is a good description of the problem here. -> https://castleink.com/blogs/printer-help/inkjet-printer-resolution-dpi-printer-guide

You could try on a high resolution inkjet photo printer with everything cranked up to the max. I've had reasonable results on my colour laser, but they are still not quite as sharp as you would get on a commercial pad printed dial. This is in part down to the age of my laser printer, and also the slight colour registration issues that are inherent in laser printing.

I keep meaning to try with my inkjet photo printer (I bought the inkjet transfer paper ages ago), but I never seem to get round to it.

I'm looking forward to seeing how you get on.

Thanks Andy. The paper I have is for laserjet unfortunately. Another issue is that the transfer paper is not smooth. It has a rough texture and therefore doesn't take the ink properly. I think for now I will save the paper for another day. Steve.

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46 minutes ago, steve1811uk said:

I think for now I will save the paper for another day

I'm still waiting for the "another day", to try out my inkjet paper. If that day comes around soon, I'll post the results here.

I must admit I went for the "cheap stuff from China" paper, so it may not be the best quality. Time will tell.

This sort of thing -> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133160295292?hash=item1f00f8db7c:g:SfIAAOSw7hFdb4wr

Not that exact seller, but since I bought it ages ago, that is the nearest I can come up with. As I recall it was available in clear or white, and I think I got samples of both.

 

Edited by AndyHull
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On 5/16/2022 at 5:09 PM, steve1811uk said:

1970 Seiko 5606-7000 with hand made stamp dial. Running at 0 SPD and amplitude over 300 degrees at full wind.

Hi Steve, Great dial, much better than the laser prints attempted before. Very inspiring... and with that movement performance.... awesome!!!!👍

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On 1/8/2022 at 3:05 PM, steve1811uk said:

Bulova 11 BLAC from 1970 (N0 case code). Before and after shots. Bought with receipt and user manual from 1973. Was missing the crown and setting wheel. Low profile Acrylic crystal fitted (Sternkreuz XAC311.624).

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I would like to know how did you clean up the dial ?

 

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I posted that this watch was on its way back in early February however things have been a little hectic ever since, and I have only just managed to get a chance to take a look at it.

This is a good looking watch, and appears to be in unworn condition, complete with box, warranty and instructions.

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The calibre is marked 2030 which suggests it is probably a Tisso 2030, and indeed the watch shares a lot of features in common with this 1977 Tissot Seastar

The original Renata cell was still in the watch, and while it had sweated out a small amount of corrosive junk, it doesn't appear to have done any lasting damage. The thing sprang to life after a clean and the fitting of a fresh cell.

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Its a very lice looking piece, probably contemporary with the Tissot, or perhaps a little earlier, as from what I can gather the calibre first appeared around 1973. Despite possibly being around 50 years old, it looks brand new.

 

Edited by AndyHull
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4 minutes ago, AndyHull said:

RIMG0545.thumb.JPG.74dcc8ad610292f7b02927a08aff9b83.JPG

I posted that this watch was on its way back in early February however things have been a little hectic ever since, and I have only just managed to get a chance to take a look at it.

This is a good looking watch, and appears to be in unworn condition, complete with box, warranty and instructions.

RIMG0542.thumb.JPG.a1cb76cfe771c454ab6437186eae4483.JPG

The calibre is marked 2030 which suggests it is probably a Tisso 2030, and indeed the watch shares a lot of features in common with this 1977 Tissot Seastar from 1977. 

The original Renata cell was still in the watch, and while it had sweated out a small amount of corrosive junk, it doesn't appear to have done any lasting damage. The thing sprang to life after a clean and the fitting of a fresh cell.

RIMG0544.thumb.JPG.726d4df1b3de2c2312de2eb424ff84d0.JPG

Its a very lice looking piece, probably contemporary with the Tissot, or perhaps a little earlier, as from what I can gather the calibre first appeared around 1973. Despite possibly being around 50 years old, it looks brand new.

 

Wow, a real motor!  Very cool!

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1 hour ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Wow, a real motor!  Very cool!

The use of a separate stepper motor like this does give it a bit of character. In 1973 a watch with this Tissot calibre would have been relatively expensive. This Limit branded design may have been produced a little later, so perhaps more like 45 years old rather than nearer 50.

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I did find this picture of a very similar designed Tissot with the same movement. Ignore the fact that it is on an Omega display stand.

Setting the movement is a little odd, and confused me at first. Here is a translation of an article I found about the how the setting mechanism works.

Quote

During the 1970s, the Tissot brand developed quartz movements. Similar to the movements marketed by Omega or Breitling, these very interesting movements have a particular time setting by pushing the crown to move the minute hand, and pulling then turning the crown to set the time of the only hour hand, which makes indexed jumps from hour to hour. Very practical for jumping a time zone because the minute hand remains correctly set.

Of course if I had taken the time to read the instruction leaflet that was with the watch, I could have saved myself the confusion, but who ever reads the instructions. 😋

A better description of the minute setting process is given here.

Quote

The time-zone option allows to change the hour-hand and is the only setting available upon pulling out the crown. Because minutes can not be adjusted manually many of these watches are described as broken. The setting procedure is performed by the stepping motor what requires a battery and in-depth know-how.

Thorough troubleshooting will usually not prove successful:

1) Press the crown to stop seconds - the clutch lever must touch a plate on the circuit module;

2) Hold crown depressed for 5 seconds;

3) Release for a fraction of a second;

4) Depress crown again and hold until the hands rotate to the desired position.

This automatic/motorized setting idea must have been considered a breakthrough (on the drawing board) but it turns out to be pure mayhem in real life.

Once set, things work as expected. Setting to the exact second is pretty trick though, as you need to set it slightly fast, then stop the mechanism with the crown and release again at the correct second.

It didn't quite make the 404 club, but at six pounds plus shipping I am more than pleased with it. I suspect this is going to be on my wrist for a while. I just need to be very careful not to scratch it.

Edited by AndyHull
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Today I pulled my 37mm (years 80's design) Seiko 5 off the shelf. It houses the discontinued automatic 21,600bph 7S26C movement, the 3rd generation in the 7S26 movement family (A,B & C).

Next to other features, what also is of interest to me is that it has an "Etachron" regulator. Pretty sure the Japanese wouldn't call it an "Etachron". The 7S26A was introduced in 1996 and had a normal regulator. The 7S26B version replaced the 7S26A in 2006 and had an "Etachron" regulator.

One can not help but to see the identicality between the Swiss and the Japanese design. Did both producers came with the same idea at the same time or did one "borrowed" the idea of the other?? 🤫 😁

My father used to wear a Seiko 5 in the 1980's and therefor there are some sentimental reasons too why I bought this "tiny" but nice running, light weight and IMHO good looking watch 😉

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Edited by Endeavor
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While we're at it, yesterday I received this little gem back from the Soviet times. These days a pocket-watch may not be so useful anymore, but still being in NOS & in mint condition, for only €37 I could not let this opportunity pass.

The outer casing shows the emblem of the "Empire of Russia" and the back "Saint George and the Dragon". When these watches left the factory they had a grey-coating which, when used (to start at the protruding points), wears quickly off. As can be seen, the coating is still fully intact. 

Inside an undisturbed SU stamped Molnija 3602 movement and a dial with CCCP.

All-in-all a very nice souvenir of times gone by;

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For people interested in my 2018 Molnija walkthrough;

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/8074-molnija-3603-3602-anti-shock-rolex-1940s/

 

Edited by Endeavor
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I've no idea whether other members do have a "story" with each watch they own ? For me that's the case and this watch is no exception.

A seller on eBay had a bunch (10 or so) brand new Zodiac dials (with "red-dot") on offer, I think €25 each. Initially I thought that they were too expensive, but somehow I couldn't get the dial out of my head and bought it. At that time I had never heard of Zodiac and had no clue about the meaning of the "red-dot" either. Weeks later the dial arrived and it was actually very nice and clearly of very high quality. Perhaps one more? ....... Too late, all gone.

Further search revealed that these dials (and watches) are quite sought after and command much higher prices than what I paid, depending on the condition of course. With this in mind the dial deserved a good movement, nice hands and obviously a divers case (sapphire). The movement is a new automatic ETA 2824-2 (28,800bph) and even though the hands were bought separately, the lume of them (also during the night) do match the lume on the dial perfectly.

It has become one of my favored watches to wear;

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