Jump to content

Watch of Today


mk3

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, AndyHull said:

A fine looking watch. 1968 was a bit of an eventful year the Vietnam war was in full swing, and Apollo 7 was launched, and somewhere in the world, your Timex came off the production line, and may well not have seen a service between then and you opening the case back.

Yes, I do think of watches as not only telling of time but as piece of time as well.  Where have they been?  Who wore them?

Maybe witness to some memorable moment in history?  Perhaps this one even past my way at some point in time?

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice one JerseyMo  thats exactly how i think of the clocks and watches I work on, little pieces of history. most of the clocks in my collection have been restored to working order the cases still contain the dings and dents they got in life, missing bits of the cases are made and fitted so its complete but not made to look like new again Dials are treated the same , I know where they came from and in most cases know who owned them.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, JerseyMo said:

Yes, I do think of watches as not only telling of time but as piece of time as well.  Where have they been?  Who wore them?

Maybe witness to some memorable moment in history?  Perhaps this one even past my way at some point in time?

 

I agree , I see engraving on the back and it sets my imagination into motion . I didn't used to feel that way , and either tried to remove the inscription , or looked for another case back . 

But after seeing so many now that say "Love Always" , or "On your Graduation 1960 " , or "Congratulations" .

I now start to see a side road off of the usual business of watch Collecting . 

This great Hobby has also helped teach me patience , given me Pure Pleasure after a completed project , and lets me escape for a while into a world of quiet , beautiful parts and pieces , and the  satisfaction of having a Nice timepiece on my wrist .

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ricardopalamino said:

given me Pure Pleasure after a completed project , and lets me escape for a while into a world of quiet , beautiful parts and pieces , and the  satisfaction of having a Nice timepiece on my wrist .

Yep! no technology just your hands and brain working together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

46 minutes ago, AndyHull said:

Nice, is it purely electric (i.e. contact spring), or transistorised?

Hi, No, BW is powered by coil in MG field. Good quality movement like eta ,Rado parts in it, I think 17 jewels.

Edited by Nucejoe
Ya, purely electric.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The blue/green "Japan Made" Frankenzen is getting an airing today.

CitizenFrankenBlueDial.thumb.jpg.ec8eb3701b120f00a77012e9a459c061.jpg

It polished up quite nicely. The timeless sands of India and the glue stains are gone and it is now running fairly well (around +7 to +15 s/day).

I'll keep an eye out for a less "interesting" dial, and if one comes up, I may return it to a more conventional look. For the time being though, I'll just enjoy its quirkiness.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, yankeedog said:

I often wonder about  watches like that from India.

noirrac1j  is correct . You get plenty of glue and possibly a surprise movement in a lot of those watches . ....

Although the exception to the rule is that if you need a part , you can get a whole watch for close to the same price as the part . If the correct movement is in the watch . 

One more thing , the caseback may not necessarily go with the case it is installed on . Having said that , I have been lucky more then half the time with the correct part . 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ricardopalamino said:

noirrac1j  is correct . You get plenty of glue and possibly a surprise movement in a lot of those watches . ....

Although the exception to the rule is that if you need a part , you can get a whole watch for close to the same price as the part . If the correct movement is in the watch . 

One more thing , the caseback may not necessarily go with the case it is installed on . Having said that , I have been lucky more then half the time with the correct part . 

I totally agree, they are a complete lottery. However if you buy them with the full knowledge of this, and don't get carried away with the bidding (none of the ones I've picked up cost more than the magical £4.04), then you almost can't go wrong.

Bid low, and bid on a bunch of them, and you are almost certain to get one at pocket money prices eventually. I can't even source a cheap strap locally at that price.

I do have a "Seiko" with an Allwyn movement, and I also picked up one that had the dial rattling around loose inside, 'cos the glue they had used in place of dial feet, had come loose, but if you need a balance, mainspring or some other part, or even just a good stainless steel case, they are often a way cheaper source than any alternative. 

Be aware though that the "Fortis", and other "Swiss" brands are often HMT, Citizen, Seiko or Allwyn watches with franken dials.

If it comes from India and looks like an HMT, but it says it is a "Favre Lueba" or a "Rare Fortis", then it is almost certainly an HMT with a franken dial. Bid as if it is a franken.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, yankeedog said:

Thanks guys...I wouldn't buy anything that didn't show the movement.I would think of them more as raw material..a case.a dial ,hands.that sort of thing. The cases do look like a decent grade of stainless steel .

You're Welcome Yankeedog .  To expound on what you just said about the parts or raw material . 

I think you understand what fellow members are saying based on experience . The value is there for raw parts .

In my experience , the glue I mentioned before is mainly to hold the dial , and in many instances , also a dial spacer that came from anybodys guess . The glue is used to hold a dial because usually the dial feet are gone . 

I have used the cases and associated parts with some success

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, yankeedog said:

Besides India there is Latvia. This 2214 came from there.Running nicely on synthetic motor oil.

IMAG0642.jpg

 

Oh jeez...I've had my share of movements that smelled like WD-40, but not automobile engine oil!

Its likely quite difficult and/or expensive to get Swiss Moebius oils in India and Latvia, so they've gotta be resourceful.

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, noirrac1j said:

 

Oh jeez...I've had my share of movements that smelled like WD-40, but not automobile engine oil!

Its likely quite difficult and/or expensive to get Swiss Moebius oils in India and Latvia, so they've gotta be resourceful.

J

Over here we get watch oil said to be made in India, some say its fake pakistani passed as Indian make. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you ever seen grease spread?  I use Molykote DX on the keyless, cannon pinion, etc and cannot imagine it spreading. Similarly, HP1300 should not be a problem, as long as you don't splash too much about.  9010 does like to travel though. I've recently re-serviced a couple of my watches I first serviced about 5 years ago. I was a bit too liberal with the oil and grease back then, but it hasn't spread everywhere. I only epilame on balance cap stones, escape wheel and pallet stones (and auto wheels if they need it).   If you use it all over, the oil might bead-up and travel even further - think of using RainX on your car windows.
    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...