Hi my friends.
I saw WRT video in youtube. It's so helpful to me. Thank you Watch Repair Channel.
After watching video, I'm looking for watch repair oil and grease.
I want know what oil & grease need to beginner.
In addition, I want know what oil &grease used in video (7s26 repiar video).
If anyone knew about that, help my work.
I will very appreciate any information or links.
Thank you to read my poor writing.
Hi Fellow People,
Im reaching out as I’m currently learning all I can about watchmaking, and am working through the BHI distance learning technicians course, with my exam booked for May.
I will need to service a quartz watch as part of my practical exam, and am learning about watch lubrication.
A few months ago I found a great article that covered the technique for dipping and collecting the right amount of oil on the oiler, such as the speed and angle of the dip, however, I now can’t find it anywhere, no matter how much I search the internet
Does anyone have or can point me in the right direction of instructions specifically on oil collection on the oiler? As you will know there is lots on the actual oiling process but not the oil collection process.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hello. I am considering buying a bottle of fixodrop and I found that there are many options regarding the quantity.
Since I am hobbyist watchmaker, I don't service a watch very often.(Couple of them in a month)
In this case, would it be okay to purchase the smallest amount of fixodrop(1ml)?
One more thing. Is there anything else I should get to apply the fixodrop to my pallet fork?
I'm about to service a Timex 260 electric movement. It's running strong as-is, but I doubt that it has been cleaned or lubricated in its lifetime. I do have the service manual for the movement and for most of the oil points, the SM calls for Moebius Synt-A-Lube, without specifying a product number (I intend to use Moebius 9010), but for the friction pinion the manual calls for "spreading type oil" (Woods AAAA oil). I cannot find a cross-reference for this old Woods oil and most watch oils are, of course, specifically formulated to NOT spread... so, I'm seeking advice and suggestions for a suitable oil to use on the friction pinion. Also, if anyone thinks that 9010 is NOT appropriate to use for the various other points, please let me know.
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Dont know the longevity of watch straps as I have many watches and wear them at infrequent intervals but I can tell you about leather as I'm into leather as well as watches and I've made belts, wallets, bags, watch straps, purses etc. There are many different kinds of leather with the most durable and hardest to cut being stingray which also is the most expensive. I dulled a blade cutting 1 watch strap then there is alligator, croco, caiman, buffalo, cow, pig etc. and there are many different ways of tanning the leather. Tanneries can tan the same leather and produce soft or hard leather, leather with a grain etc. Full grain leather is the whole thickness of the leather and is the best. Top grain is the top layer of the leather after it has been split to make it thinner and produces the top grain and suede then there are the various fakes starting with PU leather which utilizes the suede left over from making top grain leather. They basically coat the suede with polyurethane to make it look like leather. If you ever bought a cheap belt and after a month it cracked on the top layer this is what you have. The suede part will hold up but the PU part cracked. then there is leatherette and another form of leather where they take the scraps, grind them up and combine with a glue and I think they call this genuine leather. A leather watch strap that is sewn together would be made from top grain leather on top or alligator or whatever and on the bottom a softer, more comfortable leather such as pigskin. Pigskin can last many years, I have a shoe lined with pigskin that I have for about 20 yrs. I put 5-7km on it daily and its lasted.
Hello everyone, I have a quick question on the video i referenced above. At the end Mark discussion about dynamic poising. He shows seven different positions results but at the end he just has three which is dial up, Pendant Down and Pendant forward(which im assuming is pendant up). My question is are you only supposed to adjust the watch in other positions to ultimately have these three positions the only ones that matter? Other question is what are the most important positions you should adjust for when it comes to wrist watches and pocket watches? I think I might be spending way to much time worrying about adjusting other positions on watch when i really dont have to be. I also know it all depends on the type of watch but if someone could give me like their general rules when it comes to this that would be great. Thanks
I have this Hamilton 974 pocket watch. It is running strong however the minute hand move stops at 12:05 everytime it is set at 12 o'clock (the watch keeps running after the hand stops). I've replaced the cannon pinion, and the center wheel (center wheel was a tiny bit bent which I thought was the problem). I've watched it running and all of the train wheels are moving but the hands are still stopped. Any ideas?
I don't have the tool with me unfortunately but I think all that was there is pictured. I think it is just whatever cutting tool that is described in the images that is missing. The top part of the Mimo tool is separate to the lower part which is labelled 1CR1, and the top part rotates freely on the base. The red balance wheel holders are then placed on the top of the tool. The first image in the patent is a vertical cross section through the two parts of tool, illustrating the bearing surfaces.
Interesting tool. Are there any other parts in the box? Are any hidden under the one marked "Mimo"? It just seems that something, or things, are missing, relative to the patent. I'd be interested to see the side view, and perhaps the other side of the "Mimo" part. Good job on tracking down some info on it. It looks like it might do well, providing it is complete. Cheers.