Hello Sirs and Madams,
I am delighted to start this journey, this is my first time opening a mechanical watch and actually unscrewing a screw =D
This is a Soviet Slava wrist watch that my uncle gifted in the distant past... initially 20 years ago I though I over wound the spring and broke it because the crown almost turned in neutral and would not hold sprint tension...
ISSUE: The crown spins almost freely and the watch will not hold the wind, the crown unwinds back.
Here is what I have done - took the back plate off, observed the mechanism and a youtube video to find a part called the "click" please correct me if I am wrong. Under this "click" I found a spring in 2 pieces which I assume should be in one piece so that it can twist the click against the large cog to stop it from unwinding.
PLEASE advise me if I diagnosed the issue correctly and where I can find the proper parts to put back this watch back in operation.
I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
I need some help with repairing my Emporio Armani ar-1922.
I've watched some videos on YouTube but none of them resemble the movement of this particular watch.
My first problem is removing the stem/crown. I cannot see anything which looks like it will release the stem and I don't want to poke around inside it any more for fear of creating any damage.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Hello and good afternoon to all.
OK, here is another little horological teaser for you to get your heads around.
I have this great OASIS lady's (?) B270 watch that I got in a set to be repaired. It actually only needed a battery and works great.
However, the strap DEFINITELY needs replacing!
AND here is my problem.
I just CANNOT figure out HOW to get the spring bar out.
Actually, I am not sure it IS a spring bar. I have tried hard with all manner of tools (spring bar removers, screwdrivers, sharp knives etc.) to get the spring to release, but no joy.
I took the strap off by hand, so you can see the photos to see what I have. I really HOPE it IS a spring bar, but if so, HOW to get it out??
And if it is NOT, then HOW to fit a new strap on other than by glue?
Also, as an aside to all this, does ANYONE know how to set the date on this watch?
But first things first eh! As far as I can tell, there are NOT two positions that you can pull out the crown to. But I could well be wrong.
Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you.
I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches.
From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here.
The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem.
The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in.
There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position.
Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement.
Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch?
Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good.
So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
No registered users viewing this page.
I did end up seeing the difference between the top and bottom cap-jewels on the Incabloc. That was nice to learn. Thanks, JohnR725! Still, even after making sure the end-stones were in their proper places, the watch was making an odd audible tick intermittently. And it would stop. I took a second to look at the balance assembly and saw that the regulator arm was displaced a bit off of the top of the balance cock. I hadn't removed it for cleaning, so it wasn't me. No matter though. I situated it properly on balance cock and the watch is now running very strongly. I'll see how long it does so. It is no longer making the odd audible tick so I'm pretty confident that all will be well. Thanks all ! Premature victory dance. I should have known better. Little bugger stopped again. Rats!
Wow, thanks everyone, there's a whole lot of awesome information happening here! This went a whole lot deeper that I thought it would. I think a 3 jaw is still the most fitting for what I'm looking to do. jdrichard, great video! What you have there is exactly what I would be looking for and after looking into it those pieces are way more affordable than what I have been finding on ebay.
Hi John. Yes it's unfortunate but as you say, an opportunity. When I'm finished (it seems in about 7-10 years) I'll have a bench that I would not have access to with my means; not to mention shipping costs. I'll know what everything is made of and at the very least, it's ALL real wood, and high quality woods. Small touches like inexpensive hardwood 5mm plywood for drawer bottoms make it special to me. This particular ply has real wood grain that you don't generally see. watchweasol, thank you. I made a box joint jig. I'm using a radial arm (chop) saw to cut items, and a circular saw table for the jig/box joints. A router was on my list, but only for the skirting material on the sides and back of the work surface. I wound up not getting one, as there's no shortage of ornate moldings and trim that are already routed somewhat closely to what I envisioned. I might still get a router and put a radius on the drawer false-fronts, the work surface adjacent to me, and the 4 vertical edges. If it will enhance the utility and appearance, I'm all for it. One thing I need is a planer for the box joints. Either that or a belt sander to make quick work of it. This is an evolution, and I'm sure will change as I go along.
Hello, everyone Please could someone help me with a basic question as I live on a remote Uk island with no watchmakers. I am about to replace the ETA 955412 movement in my 1992Tagheuer 6000. (See picture) I have removed the Tag stem from the old broken movement and before removing the (temporary stem ?) and inserting my tag stem into new ETA I wanted to ensure I have the stem in the correct position and if battery should be in. I have read conflicting stem positions on line hence the question. Thanks for reading any help would be appreciated. Gary