Jump to content

Dial Feet Soldering Video


Recommended Posts

A work colleague asked me to have a look at his Ebel 1911 Discovery (ETA 7750). The hour counting hand was floating around in the case. Loupe inspection showed that the post was broken off in the hand - so before starting I ordered a replacement hour counting wheel. When I opened the case I found the dial was not attached - it was sliding around under the hands. Removal showed that both dial feet were broken off. Time to break out my dial foot soldering machine. Here's a video showing the technique. Enjoy!

 

 

 

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

1.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No marks left on front if done correctly. I probably ruined 5 practice dials experimenting with different solder, flux and technique. Note also that sometimes I use a staking set to support the dial. I use a flat punch that is just the correct size to hold the dial wire perfectly vertical. This is actually the technique I'd recommend. Key is to use the correct solder and to perfect your timing. If you flow the current too long you WILL burn the dial face!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone know if a car battery charger would be any good for this?

I have an old charger that can output 12v or 6v which I believe can cope with quite a high current. I was wondering if it would double as a dial foot soldering machine. Does it need to be A/C rather than D/C?

Also, what is the function of the carbon rod? Could you not just make contact with the wire or would that cause a problem?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, Marc said:

Does anyone know if a car battery charger would be any good for this?

I have an old charger that can output 12v or 6v which I believe can cope with quite a high current. I was wondering if it would double as a dial foot soldering machine. Does it need to be A/C rather than D/C?

Also, what is the function of the carbon rod? Could you not just make contact with the wire or would that cause a problem?

Yes - I believe a car battery charger can work. Have a look at this: http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/solderer.pdf

You need the carbon rod which serves as the electrode. Carbon is an excellent electrical resistor. It is this resistance that generates the instantaneous, and localized heat required to solder. Without the carbon, you would likely overheat the entire dial and do irreparable damage :(. Carbon rods are cheap and easy to find online. You can file the end down to a pencil tip.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, sstakoff said:

Yes - I believe a car battery charger can work. Have a look at this: http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/solderer.pdf

You need the carbon rod which serves as the electrode. Carbon is an excellent electrical resistor. It is this resistance that generates the instantaneous, and localized heat required to solder. Without the carbon, you would likely overheat the entire dial and do irreparable damage :(. Carbon rods are cheap and easy to find online. You can file the end down to a pencil tip.

@sstakoff thanks for the info and the link, I will be giving this a try.

I actually salvaged a carbon rod from an old zinc carbon battery last night so my next step is to obtain some solder paste and conduct some trials. 

I will report back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • In the meantime whilst awaiting a better plan, please drop me a quick hello on my email. 
    • I looked at it like this, I've built a lot of stuff in my time, building structures and furniture,those are my creations and they will still be here way way after I'm gone. Traditional watchmakers felt the need to pass their knowledge on, ideas that they created . I assume with them as it is with me, leaving their mark on the earth, a way of being remembered. This creation of Mark's has brought thousands of people together to pass their knowledge around,  ideas that will continue to be used for lifetimes. Ideas that should continue to be procured. If for whatever reason the forum ceased to exist, not quite like Ranfft's, that didn't disappear but much less usable. Then that is sad, such a massive loss of communication between good people and a wealth of knowledge lost. There should be something in place for when that happens which could be next week, next year or in 10 years. Might not be a topical subject for a lot of folk or boardering on controversy, i did say i talk about stuff other people dont. But if you dont talk about it and something happens then you've lost it and you ain't gonna fix it .
    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward? some kind of WRT ark
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
×
×
  • Create New...