Jump to content

Newbie To The Forum, As Well As Watch Repairs


Adam

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

 

Thought I'd introduce myself, I've been watching Mark's video's for a few weeks now and it's given me the confidence to have a go myself at repairing mine. It's a bit of a long story really, but basically I bought a used Omega Seamaster off ebay, went to The Watchlab as it wasn't running right, they told me it needed servicing, they then said it was very rusty inside and they couldn't get the parts needed... I then sent it to a watch repairer online, who apparently serviced it... The next one was a jewellers in Chester, he also apparently serviced it and charged me twice for a new crystal... The next one was another local jeweller in Wallasey, who boasted of being on the business since 1957, eureka I thought, as he told me it was the original crystal, despite being charged for new one's... He fitted a genuine crystal alright, but forgot to service it, oh and while he was there he lost my Rotary watch that was given to me for my 21st birthday; he denies me ever bringing it in now (a court case awaits...)

 

The last one was The Watch Guy, Christian, who is very honest and trustworthy, he's told me a few things about my Omega and I'm going to try and learn as much as I can and repair it myself.

 

And here I am  :D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adam,

Welcome to the forum. Happy to help where we can.

Can I suggest that you buy a few scrap movements off eBay as they are very cheap and if you mess up then it's all good experience.

Omegas are nice to work on but you can even buy scrap omega movements off eBay for 10 or 20 quid.

I hope you get to enjoy watch servicing as much as I do.

All the best.

Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the welcome Mark, I'll have a look on ebay for some old movements, save buggering up my Omega  :lol:  I do have a question or two, which I'll be posting soon.

 

I've also got my eye on a few repair tools to add to my collection, I'm determined to learn as much as I can!

 

Adam.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

Hello Adam,

 

Welcome to the forum.  I had some experience of problems with local watch repairs when I took an old Tissot my late mother had given me to get it fixed.  To cut a long story short I ended up fixing it myself and developed the "Bug". 

 

I personally decided to restrict myself to two makes under the mistaken premise that It would be easier to learn about two vintage types, Tissot and Bulova.  Little did I know that there are loads of different movements under each brand name and Bulova in particular is a peculiar animal, especially on the Accutron side of things. 

 

I do sometimes get caught up in it, and though I have refrained from buying new (old ) watches to make up a collection, the temptation is immense.  All the tools are wonderful things and my addiction is to the old tools for Bulova's.

 

I am however happy with my new hobby and I am sure that you will enjoy it.  There is nothing quite like a good repair job even if you find yourself cursing while you work.

 

There are some wise heads in the forum that have helped me out.

 

Cheers,

 

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum from Scotland!

I've been a member since March and find it a very friendly and knowledgable place with members from all over the world willing to help. Horology is a great subject, it is so deep that you will always learn something new. Study Mark's videos before barging in and breaking something, I wish I had found them before I started.

Nice Ganada by the way. :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well thank you for those nice messages, I last posted on here last December and I've been busy ever since I'm afraid to say...

 

I'm back to being a full-time Dad and watch repairs has taken a back seat somewhat, but recently I did manage to refit the mechanism from my Omega into the new case I bought last year; I'll make a proper post in the relevant area though ;)

 

Thanks again!

 

P.S: I have a Granada Blog that you might be interested in:

 

http://adamsgranadablog.weebly.com/

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks again for the warm welcome, I'm glad you like my blog and my car phone! :D 

 

I'm impressed with your collection of watches Will, especially those pocket watches, I expect they're easier to work on due to their size? great site ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm impressed with your collection of watches Will, especially those pocket watches, I expect they're easier to work on due to their size? great site ;)

It's a mixed blessing. Yes, their greater size is a help when dealing with them. The main problem is parts, with most of the specialist suppliers being in the US. I've found two or three very helpful suppliers, and I have an Amish friend who specialises in Hamiltons. So, for example, it's comparatively easy to get a Hamilton mainspring - and, luckily with Hamiltons, one size fits all - but balance staffs are like hens teeth. Swings and roundabouts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome Adam,

                            Marks advice is very sound (buy some cheap movements from Ebay to practice on)  an Omega is not really the place to start learning, It's a bit like taking up servicing cars and starting with a Bugatti Veyron.

 

Plenty of wise heads on the forums so any questions you have should get an answer.   :thumbsu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi and welcome! Sounds like you have your hands full with Daddy duty :)  I'm sure free time is rare these days, I can relate to that!   If you ever need help with some basic watch repair questions I'd be happy to give you some web links for a ton of helpful step by step how to articles and videos.  Just let me know....  Take care

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Using carbon steel from a feeler gauge, I must have got lucky the first time I annealed. The hole drilled just like it was mild steel - it just went straight through. Shaping with a file was also so easy. The next time I used the same set of feeler gauges. Annealed as before ... and broke 2 drills. Couldn't touch it. Took three more attempts at annealing before I could drill a hole. But it still wasn't as soft as the first time. I now have a steel cannister (an old box spanner with the end hammered over) and some activated charcoal for my next attempt at annealing.
    • Hey all, been a while since the last post but i have some update info on drilling hardened steel for setting levers, @mikepilk if you're interested . It's a real shit of a job without the right gear 🤷‍♂️ After annealing my setting lever i did manage to drill 2 holes the first was ok and relatively quick i think i was just lucky and had something right,the second was tough and the other 2 i needed i just gave up. Pivot drills work but not great, this is supposedly after annealing. The steel is softer and shaping files seem to cut better, but hand drilling with the cheap carbide drills just does not work they break and chip like billyoh, unless...............you have the right gear. This is someway of getting the right gear. Proxon micro drill, the runout 1 1/2 from the head i cant see with x20 loupe holding a .4mm carbide bit. Proxon drill press stand makes it very useable. It isn't cheap but it is , its kind of entry level micro drilling and milling but on a fair quality tool. 0.4mm cheap crappy carbide drills eat through hard and tempered setting levers and feeler gauges ( nothing annealed ) at 5000 revs, the lowest the micromot 240v can go. No chipping of the carbide, but there is a technique involved, you cant just push your way through in one go and i think that might be to do with hardening of the steel as the drill end sits burnishing away on the surface of the steel or maybe the bit needs to bite in. The bit has to bite and back off a dozen times to get through but its about 30 seconds to 1 minute depending how brave you are, i drilled dry so a drop of oil could very well improve the situation. Its not the exact setup i was after but i figure i have some multi use here . Proxon do a few bigger more versatile milling machines and Dell put me onto a make that I'm considering but more like next year now. The little setup i have here is a little introduction to milling for me, i think i like it for now.
    • Thanks John, I think that is where the problem started for this watch. It was taken for a battery replacement by the diver (owner) and the technician didn't tighten the crown and the then owner didn't check (assuming done by the battery replacer) and of course the salt water flooded in. It came to me as a parts watch. As part of my watch repair journey, I am excited to see if I can at least get the analogue time function to work again. It would need a factory service if it were to ever go beneath the waves again, as would any dive watch purchased from ebay or etsy etc. rob
    • Hi @RichardHarris123 not necessarily, on the some the dial is in two parts. Once the bezel is removed the chapter ring is removed gaining access to the stem release, once done the top watch lifts off allowing both batteries to be changed. They all seem to employ the same method just achieved differently On others the bezel is removed by removing screw on the bezel , others use pry points. Its a case of careful inspection before proceeding.
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England . Another Richard. 
×
×
  • Create New...