Jump to content

ETA 2824-2 - Cant engage manual wind


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've been labouring over this issue all weekend and just can't fix it. In assembling the keyless works in a ETA 2824-2 (actually a "Chinese clone" - cloud this be the issue??) i cannot get the manual wind to engage.

I have re-assembled the works several times, substituting parts from another 2824 (clone) movement to try to eliminate the faulty part.. But no joy.

When i look carefully at what is going on, the Double Corrector lever is not pushing the Yoke across to the right far enough to engage the clutch wheel to the winding pinion, it's falling short a couple of mill. I can push the clutch over with a screwdriver the rest of the way and then the winding works (until the clutch slips off of the pinion again).

I've had no end of trouble with the keyworks on this movement (stem dislodging the Setting Lever etc etc.. Does anybody have any experience of this problem ? Am i likely to experience these issues due to using a cheap clone ? I've actually just ordered all of the separate (genuine ETA) keyless components from eBay to see if they work when i fit them.. This is bugging me !

Thanks

Darren

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, rogart63 said:

Had trouble with a 2632 just about now? Couldn't get it to wind with the crown either? Found that the bridge was worn here? Changed the bridge for a better one and now is working again.  

images (2).jpg

Yeah, don't think its a bridge issue as i can place the clutch where it needs to be manually, just can't get the yoke to do it !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, DarrenThomson said:

Yeah, don't think its a bridge issue as i can place the clutch where it needs to be manually, just can't get the yoke to do it !

Is it locked up or just don't wind when you turn the crown? 

My Eta 2632 has about the same construction as a 2824? 

i could wind it with a screwdriver on the barrel but when tried to wind it with the crown it was locked up . 

An other old movement an 2532 i have has a broken winding pinion. 

Have the right stem?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not locked up, Roger.. The clutch is just falling short of the pinion, when the keyless work is set to "wind" (so it just spins freely). I just took delivery of every part of the keyless work (including stem) so i'm going to put them all in over the weekend and see what happens.. After that, i'm beaten and i'll put it down to a poor clone..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/30/2017 at 1:18 PM, DarrenThomson said:

I've actually just ordered all of the separate (genuine ETA) keyless components from eBay to see if they work when i fit them.. This is bugging me !

"to see if" is the right expression.. let us know.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

CRACKED IT (actually, thanks to Mark's "Servicing 2824" video).. The problem was that i was engaging the spring with setting jumper (thanks, "SirMike) but not (at the other end) with the "Return Bar".. Such a simple fix but had me stumped for days. THANK YOU MARK (and to everybody for your help).. Happy man.. now.. about fitting the balance... !

Edited by DarrenThomson
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
×
×
  • Create New...