Jump to content

Watch magnetism and demagnetizer


Recommended Posts

Very interesting and very useful. I can't find the specific one you show in the video, but I found a different EMF app (free so maybe quality is questionable) just now and tried it out on my watches. I am seeing that anything metal is causing some kind of signal change, albeit weak. Any suggestions as you seem to have yours dialed in to the point it doesn't move at all when the watch is put near the compass. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe I am not properly using my demagnetizer. It's just a cheap Chinese version. I begin with the object at a distance, turn the magnet on, slowly being the item into the magnetic field until it starts to buzz then slowly remove the item until it's an arms length away from the mag. Either way I ran a few tests and maybe you can help me interpret. So first off here is just a spring bar tool that I had laying around that came with a strap recently:

3ff8a3e10f1eb9030f3f44f638d8a70d.jpg

I then magnetized it using my mag and got:

51161d62b4f8eb049a61abd8b3af2620.jpg

Then followed the procedure that I spoke of at the beginning to demagnetize. My reading afterwards was slightly lower magnitude than before but still noticeable:

1c1d2524eb432e2382e1091365df9b91.jpg

And then comes a watch that I just demagnetized following the exact same procedures that appeared to work for the spring bar tool, but repeated 2 times in 2 different directions.

34cdb963dccc78f07dd7e5712155808c.jpg

I am afraid maybe you are right and that my demagnetizer is too weak to demagnetize the whole watch all at once. And that I will haves to demag each part individually. Appreciate any feedback you can lend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, NMarsh said:

 Appreciate any feedback you can lend.

Yes it seems to me that the demagnetizer You have is strong enough for the spring bar remover but not strong enough for a whole watch.

3 hours ago, thessler said:

I have a question though , if the watch was demagnitser two months ago Im  wondering why it is magnetic now ?

The answer is in the description. I am working with a strong magnet at my workplace :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, szbalogh said:

Yes it seems to me that the demagnetizer You have is strong enough for the spring bar remover but not strong enough for a whole watch.

I appreciate it. I will have to try and demag the movement itself and see if that helps, if not I guess I will being doing it by each individual part. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe I am not properly using my demagnetizer. It's just a cheap Chinese version. I begin with the object at a distance, turn the magnet on, slowly being the item into the magnetic field until it starts to buzz then slowly remove the item until it's an arms length away from the mag. Either way I ran a few tests and maybe you can help me interpret. So first off here is just a spring bar tool that I had laying around that came with a strap recently:

3ff8a3e10f1eb9030f3f44f638d8a70d.jpg

I then magnetized it using my mag and got:

51161d62b4f8eb049a61abd8b3af2620.jpg

Then followed the procedure that I spoke of at the beginning to demagnetize. My reading afterwards was slightly lower magnitude than before but still noticeable:

1c1d2524eb432e2382e1091365df9b91.jpg

And then comes a watch that I just demagnetized following the exact same procedures that appeared to work for the spring bar tool, but repeated 2 times in 2 different directions.

34cdb963dccc78f07dd7e5712155808c.jpg

I am afraid maybe you are right and that my demagnetizer is too weak to demagnetize the whole watch all at once. And that I will haves to demag each part individually. Appreciate any feedback you can lend.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What is the app you are using?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites


What is the app you are using?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


It is Teslameter pro on the iPhone. It says it's a "metal detector" but I assume that it can serve the same purpose with maybe just a small amount of static.

245c7830f1a19df8223e826b2f0b4d4d.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...