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    • Hi, please see some pics attached. Dial says JAPAN 6501 - 653316 KA. Not what we were expecting I think. Pretty sure the calibre reads 6501. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
    • This is very helpful - has a bit more detail than the other docs I have. So - we now have this movement being equivalent to the Cartier 81, Ebel 81, Frederic Piguet 8.20 and the Piaget 820P :).  I am still very surprised by the cleaning instructions in the Piaget document. They explicitly state that you can clean the main plate conventionally. But I am certain that there is an insulator between the battery strap screw tubes and the main plate. I cannot imagine they would not be substantially damaged by watch cleaning solutions. This movement requires the + side of the battery to be placed down and make direct contact to the main plate. So the strap is negatively charged and must be insulated from the main plate. I am curious if anyone here has actually cleaned one of these in a cleaning machine. I am heavily leaning towards my prev thought which was to clean the main plate in my water-based jewelry ultrasonic instead of the Watchmaster.
    • If you suspect the plating to loosen within the barrel I would refrain from using it or try to get the plating off completely. Inspect the lid from one of your other barrels and if you find one that looks better I suggest you use it instead. I've been experimenting a fair bit with cleaning and have found that the most efficient way to clean "large parts" such as the barrel, the main plate, and the bridges (and sometimes the pallet cock) is to use a good washing-up liquid, a dense soft toothbrush and as warm water as you can endure. You will be amazed by the result! Before this I let the parts soak in naphtha over night. I only use IPA to get rid of naphtha and water. So, just a quick rinse in IPA (a minute or so) not to dissolve any shellac. I just love Russian movements but haven't done any Raketa yet (just Vostok and Poljot), so please keep us updated on your progress.
    • Hmm, when I was in school we were expected to get beat error on fixed stud watches to under 1ms; when I was assembling complications for one of the big houses here they had the same criteria. Now part of my work is SAV for one of the old prestige names, they also expect under 1ms. In 6 positions. And a lot of their watches are ultra thin or very small diameter movements. Whether or not there is a real observable performance issue between 1 or 2 or 3ms error I don't know- I just correct it and get on with it. If it's a personal watch then it doesn't matter (it won't hurt anything at least); if you are charging money for it I would say correct it, at least to 1.5ms.
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