Jump to content
  • 0

Removing dial from a Chromachron ISA268 movement



I'm replacing an ISA268 movement on a Tian Harlan Chromachron Watch.  The movement was corroded by the battery.  Interesting as it has no "hands" as such, just a rotating disk that exposes a different colour of the face for each hour.

But I can't get the movement detached from the dial.  I think I have found the two dial feet, but I am confused by two screws next to the feet that appear to do nothing other than turn in their housings. I thought perhaps these would be something to do with how the dial is attached but I can't figure it out.  

I've added some pictures showing what I believe are the feet with the screws next to them - and a picture of the dial and "hand"

Any ideas?  Thanks in advance


feet screws.jpg


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

If you look closely I think you will find these screw heads are eccentric and will turn away from the pins.  If they have been turned all the way around, they have probably cut a groove in the copper pin.  Look very carefully using a loupe to ascertain when the screw heads are turned as far as possible from the pins.  This is the point at which you should be able to prise off the dial.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
1 hour ago, Geo said:

 Look very carefully using a loupe to ascertain when the screw heads are turned as far as possible from the pins. 

Thanks, I'll take a look tomorrow but it's difficult to tell what is going on under the screw head even with a loop.  Plus both screws spin freely, i.e. they don't just move half a turn or something like that.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi All I'm a beginner.  I've finally competed my Seiko 6119A in a Seiko 5.  I now notice that the second hand tube is quite long.  It's not sliding down the shaft with moderate pressure.  How had should I push?  Is there a trick to this? Thank you    
    • Hello guys, I have some problem with my seiko 7015 speedtimer that i bought 2 days ago.. This seiko runs smoothly when chronograph off And when the chronograph is active,the watch runs for awhile and then stop.. Whats wrong with it and maybe you guys can help me with some solution please!! thanks
    • Hi Len thank you for the detailed reply. I tried a 329 today and unfortunately did not work. As you explained before it looks like the rotor is ocillating back and forth (the second hand moves forward and backwards).  Its heartbreaking to see as i was hoping to fix it and give back to my grandfather. is there anyway i can source the part or an alternative movement (does not have to be Omega) that will fit the dial and casing?Although not ideal as takes away from the integrity and beauty of the watch but would love to able to get it working one way or the other so my grandfather can wear it on the wrist again. any help would be much appreciated  regards   57253616986__A7C2CEC7-1ACC-483F-933C-D73C742B77C7.MOV
    • For what its worth, the watch would originally have looked more like this.
    • A little bit of a fun watch  for today's Watch of Today.

      Another Swatch rescued from the junk pile. This one had a couple of obvious issues.

      The leather band was filthy, heavily kinked, and stiff as a board. So much so that had to be scrubbed with detergent, dried, and some leather restoration work carried out. The watch itself however, as well as the usual heavily scratched crystal had an electro-machanical issue. When I popped in a brand new battery, the second hand would move for a bit, then falter. This turned out to be a combination of slight corrosion on the spring contact for the battery, and the fact that someone had previously run the watch with a tiny button cell, wedged in place with some scrunched up paper, which had bent the sprung battery contact.  A little very careful re-bending and off it went like a champ. This illustrates the point nicely, that even a little extra resistance in the battery contacts can be enough to stop a quartz movement, or make it behave erratically. The band took a little more effort. Once dried, following its bath, it became obvious that the original uniform kid leather look was long gone, so I went for a more vintage finish, with a little blending of the very worn patches using the leather dye in some dark tan shoe polish, combined with some lighter "Clarks Shoes" branded leather restoration cream. I only needed a hint of the dark tan, since I didn't want to end up with a brown shoes effect, simply to shine up the worn patches, and blend them with the existing colour.

      Several thin coats of leather cream mixed with a little dark tan, and much buffing later and the strap is back to its original soft calfskin feel, rather than dry as a stick. All of the holes are the same size again. The band forms a gentle curve, rather than being corrugated, and the stitching is clean.  The band looks ten times better than when it arrived. This is yet another member of the "404 Club", since it was effectively free with a bunch of other junk, I picked up which was purchased because it included a mechanical watch that I have yet to restore, all for under the magic £4.04