Jump to content

Some Of My Watch Lathes


Recommended Posts

Beaklini,

I will be glad to answer any questions you have if I can. If you are thinking of purchasing one of these machines keep in mind that without accessories they will not be useful tools. Also keep in mind that the primary function of a watchmaker lathe is to turn extremely tiny pivots which they do well. Watchmaker lathes were designed to make watch parts and do not do as well with heavier cuts and larger parts.  

 The old German and American companies that manufactured these machines have long since gone out of business or, in the case of Derbyshire and Levin, switched to strictly making instrument lathes.

Instrument lathes are  larger, heavier, more powerful, more accurate and more expensive than watchmaker lathes. The motor on my Levin is larger than a watchmaker lathe.  

There are also  machines like Taig and Sherline  that are a larger size than watchmaker lathes which can have some useful applications making less precise parts  but are more along the line of desktop hobby toys.  

david

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 12/16/2016 at 10:25 AM, Tmuir said:

I would personally love if you started a thread on how to restore these old lathes.

I own a BTM lathe that I was given some 30 years ago when I was 13 which could do with a strip down and service before I start to use it and would love a thread covering the basics on cleaning and restoring lathes like this.

Ok, David, just need your address where the lathes are! If a break in occurs in the next few weeks, don’t worry, they went to a good loving home! LOL

OMG this is a crazy collection you have, brother!!!! Hope your family appreciate it when you’re gone!!!!

 Thank you so much for sharing such a great collection!

 If you could post any opinion on Prazima Andra vs Boley quality, it would be great! I’ve noticed the Andra ones are way more expensive but has never heard of them up to a few weeks ago. I see you have a few Boley ones.

 And the idea of starting a thread in restoring these jewel machines is awesome too!! 100% approved!!!

Thanks again!

Edson
jewelry endeavors tampa fl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...