Jump to content

Some Of My Watch Lathes


Recommended Posts

I honestly don't know how many lathes I have. About 5 years ago it was over 70. Counting Turns and Jacot lathes I am sure the number is well over 100. Some of the real expensive ones such as the larger size Derbyshire and Levin instrument lathes, a double pedestal Boley production Lathe and several more Levin WW (8mm and 10mm) lathes were not in the pictures. I also have two Sincere lathes. One I bought brand new years ago and another I purchased recently that is going to have to be restored.  If I have time I will post pictures of these at a later date. 

I have been collecting these for the past 45 years and have no interest in selling them; at least not for several more years.

david 

Edited by david
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stuart,

A lot of people buy these machines thinking that if they stay with an old school designer label brand lathe they can't go wrong. Often this does not work out as the purchaser does not have the necessary machinery and skill set to put the lathes back into original factory specifications. This could include designing components, turning, milling, lapping, surface grinding, spindle grinding, hand scraping and inspection procedures. Just removing the old paint and refinishing a machine opens up an expensive can of worms. This is usually beyond the budget and skill set of most watchmakers. The second problem then arises which is finding the necessary accessories in good condition in order to make the machinery actually perform usable work. 

To the best of my knowledge the only companies left making small machines are Horotec, Levin, Derbyshire, Star, Bergeon and Sincere. The Derbyshire and Levin lathes are, in my view, the best of the lot (50 millionths spindle runout). The Star, Bergeon and Sincere are cone bearing lathes and, once adjusted, all work in a satisfactory manner. Of the remaining  three, the Sincere is the most  affordable. 

Buying a used machine requires a considerable investment of skill, effort and equipment .Here is a picture of a Levin drill press that I helped my friend Tom Mc Allister restore.

david

Assembled.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, david said:

Stuart,

A lot of people buy these machines thinking that if they stay with an old school designer label brand lathe they can't go wrong. Often this does not work out as the purchaser does not have the necessary machinery and skill set to put the lathes back into original factory specifications. This could include designing components, turning, milling, lapping, surface grinding, spindle grinding, hand scraping and inspection procedures. Just removing the old paint and refinishing a machine opens up an expensive can of worms. This is usually beyond the budget and skill set of most watchmakers. The second problem then arises which is finding the necessary accessories in good condition in order to make the machinery actually perform usable work.

Buying a used machine requires a considerable investment of skill, effort and equipment

david

 

I would personally love if you started a thread on how to restore these old lathes.

I own a BTM lathe that I was given some 30 years ago when I was 13 which could do with a strip down and service before I start to use it and would love a thread covering the basics on cleaning and restoring lathes like this.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tmuir,

I have only seen pictures of the BTM lathe and have not seen the actual lathe. I looks almost exactly like a Geneva style Boley but I don't know if the companies were connected in any way. 

Mark Lovick has a video on Youtube showing the disassembly and assembly  of his Sincere lathe. I think the video was about changing the drive belt but also shows how to take the machine apart and put it back together.

david 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/16/2016 at 12:57 AM, david said:

Stuart,

A lot of people buy these machines thinking that if they stay with an old school designer label brand lathe they can't go wrong. Often this does not work out as the purchaser does not have the necessary machinery and skill set to put the lathes back into original factory specifications. This could include designing components, turning, milling, lapping, surface grinding, spindle grinding, hand scraping and inspection procedures. Just removing the old paint and refinishing a machine opens up an expensive can of worms. This is usually beyond the budget and skill set of most watchmakers. The second problem then arises which is finding the necessary accessories in good condition in order to make the machinery actually perform usable work. 

To the best of my knowledge the only companies left making small machines are Horotec, Levin, Derbyshire, Star, Bergeon and Sincere. The Derbyshire and Levin lathes are, in my view, the best of the lot (50 millionths spindle runout). The Star, Bergeon and Sincere are cone bearing lathes and, once adjusted, all work in a satisfactory manner. Of the remaining  three, the Sincere is the most  affordable. 

Buying a used machine requires a considerable investment of skill, effort and equipment .Here is a picture of a Levin drill press that I helped my friend Tom Mc Allister restore.

david

Thanks for your advice David. I had been considering a used but recent looking Star lathe which was up for £500 as a slightly more expensive solution to a vintage gamble, and your post almost pushed me into doing that... but it sold earlier today.  Will keep hunting with your thoughts in mind.

Stuart

Edited by jdm
Please don't include pictures in quoting
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stuart,

Take a look at this before making a final decision. A basic package can be purchased from Sincere for far less than this more complete set. I purchased one years ago and have been very happy with it. Both Colin Andrews (The Great British Watch Company) and Mark Lovick (Watch Repair Channel) have these machines. I am happy with mine and I have not heard any bad reviews on this equipment.

david

s-l1600.jpg

Edited by david
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i purchased it all from sincereclocks on ebay roughly 8 months ago, i cannot remember the price but it has gone since i originally looked a year before . i wish i could spend more time on it , hopefully i would get some time over the holidays...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is an awesome!! I'm trying to find a lathe too. I recently ran into a problem with screws for an invicta watch that were stripped and missing some length. I thought to myself if I had a lathe I would have just made four new screws. If any one knows of a lathe for a beginner let me know. Thanks Jeremy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/15/2016 at 10:36 PM, david said:

I have been collecting these for the past 45 years and have no interest in selling them; at least not for several more years.

I see that you have many lathes that seem to pretty much the same (last pic in the first set), any reason why? 

I understand that sophisticated tools have an engineering beauty that goes well beyond common uses object, like -for example- watches. At the same time, the pleasure of collecting items (in a large quantity) which are meant to make other objects, escapes my comprehension.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel.  Thanks, Nev. Amplitude v. weak - balance wheel turns over arc of only ~20deg. Don't know how to calculate movement rate or safely vibrate balance spring! Meantime I have reduced the 'dishing' & clock no longer runs for more than a few minutes except face down which supports my theory that it was 'dished' as a hack to avoid doing a proper repair.
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
×
×
  • Create New...