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    • I would suggest "Watch repairs, help and advice" section of the forum.  You can always count on the "Forum Police" to guide you if it's wrong  
    • I don't have one with me but the original should be 1.05 high for a 10.5 barrel.
    • As mentioned, brand new GR mainsprings do not usually require lubrication. You have observed my videos on YT where I apply a little grease to automatic watches to the barrel wall. As has been mentioned above, this is braking grease. The mainspring also has an extremely light (and I mean extremely light) application of 8200 along it's length also. I do not film every aspect of what I do as some tasks are a royal pain in the rear to film. This is one of those tasks. Although I do cover this in the video course. The videos on YT are usually a 30 minute give or take condensing of a job that may last hours I cannot film everything. If you look hard enough you may notice many places seemingly not lubricated - this doesnt mean those friction points were not dealt with. My YT videos are there for entertainment purposes and whilst many find them extremely useful as a learning aid, they are not comprehensive breakdowns of a full service, that would make them hours long each., my course on the other hand is a full breakdown of all steps required to effectively service a watch. I hope this clears things up  
    • Whats your thinking behind this? As a novice, looking at the dimensions, I would have gone for your original suggestion. 
    • In theory you can work ruby with anything harder or as hard (diamond is worked with diamond), but it's so easy and cheap to get diamond lapping compounds and powders that it's really the way to go. I'd suggest a copper lap rotated in the lathe, but almost any material is ok- acrylic, iron, etc. For pallet faces I would use 1micron diamond, it will cut slowly but surely and leave an entirely satisfactory finish.
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