Jump to content

Empire Watch Co. Venus 170 Service? Repair?


Recommended Posts

Thanks @Geo!

OK, so I got the watch largely back together.  It kept pretty good time over the 12 hours I tested it, so the watch part is working pretty well.  The chrono mechanism is functioning: start, stop, and flyback.  I do have a couple of issues though:

The chrono second sweep hand stutters from time to time, especially when the dart contacts the intermittent minute gear. 

     a) I can't see the dart tooth through the chrono runner to make sure the depth is good w/respect to the intermittent minute gear.  It's rotated just outside of the view circle.  Any tips on rotating it about 5 degrees without breaking the tooth or messing up the shaft or wheel?

     b: The second hand drags a little on the dial in a couple of places.  I'm gradually smoothing out the bend to it but I'm real worried about breaking it. 

    c) I did break the tip off minute register jumper, despite the warnings from the ensembl-o-graph guide to be careful.  So I'm sourcing a replacement.

    d) I can't seem to get many of the parts shiny.  Any good tips to take off black patina?  I've tried muriatic acid, vinegar, pepsi, naptha.   Sandpaper works but is not usable in a lot of places.

Thanks!  Despite these minor issues I'm really happy with the watch and the result of my work so far.

 

 

 

I broke the tip off the minute register jumper, despite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, ScottMcAfee said:

Thanks @Geo!

OK, so I got the watch largely back together.  It kept pretty good time over the 12 hours I tested it, so the watch part is working pretty well.  The chrono mechanism is functioning: start, stop, and flyback.  I do have a couple of issues though:

The chrono second sweep hand stutters from time to time, especially when the dart contacts the intermittent minute gear. 

     a) I can't see the dart tooth through the chrono runner to make sure the depth is good w/respect to the intermittent minute gear.  It's rotated just outside of the view circle.  Any tips on rotating it about 5 degrees without breaking the tooth or messing up the shaft or wheel?

     b: The second hand drags a little on the dial in a couple of places.  I'm gradually smoothing out the bend to it but I'm real worried about breaking it. 

    c) I did break the tip off minute register jumper, despite the warnings from the ensembl-o-graph guide to be careful.  So I'm sourcing a replacement.

    d) I can't seem to get many of the parts shiny.  Any good tips to take off black patina?  I've tried muriatic acid, vinegar, pepsi, naptha.   Sandpaper works but is not usable in a lot of places.

Thanks!  Despite these minor issues I'm really happy with the watch and the result of my work so far.

Good job!  I hope to see a picture of the finished product!

  1. I don't think the dart tooth is movable (or at least shouldn't be).  I took a quick look at the Venus 170 I have and the dart tooth was just barely inside the window, but enough that I could see clearly where it contacts the intermittent wheel.  Perhaps there's a problem with the chronograph runner you have.  Post a picture if you can- that might help.
  2. Sounds like your doing it right- slow and steady.  My method is to carefully rub the hand with steel tweezers to slowly correct an aggressive bend.
  3. Uh-oh, those can be costly- it looks like Scotch Watch has them in stock though, possibly Otto too.
  4. Depends.  Bridges and plates are usually silver plated so a simple silver dip solution will work wonders.  For mirror finished steel parts (like the chronograph levers) I use a Dremel, a polishing wheel, and a bit of Dialux compound.  It makes a mess and so each piece must be done separately and then carefully cleaned to remove any polishing compound and fibers.  Also, you run the risk of loosing sharp edges this way.

Happy to hear it's come together fairly well.  Nice work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Here are some pictures of the aberrant dart tooth on the runner.  I've set that aside as I messed up my hairspring pretty bad (got the tension spring tangled up in it).  I'm having fun learning all about the mechanics of tweaking and shaping hairsprings, but it's slow going.  Mark's videos on this are very helpful.  I may ultimately have to buy one, but I'll give it my best shot.  I also took some time off of the 170 to service a family alarm clock with my dad, which was a nice switch to the macro from the micro and my first look at a pin escapement.  runner with minute tooth (3).jpgrunner with minute tooth (2).jpgrunner with minute tooth (3).jpgrunner with minute tooth (2).jpg

Hairspring1.jpg

Hairspring 4.jpg

IMG_0118.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, ScottMcAfee said:

Here are some pictures of the aberrant dart tooth on the runner.  I've set that aside as I messed up my hairspring pretty bad (got the tension spring tangled up in it).  I'm having fun learning all about the mechanics of tweaking and shaping hairsprings, but it's slow going.  Mark's videos on this are very helpful.  I may ultimately have to buy one, but I'll give it my best shot.  I also took some time off of the 170 to service a family alarm clock with my dad, which was a nice switch to the macro from the micro and my first look at a pin escapement. 

Well I need to apologize for getting it wrong- the dart tooth on a Venus 170 chronograph runner can be moved.  I had a rusty movement here that I was breaking down so I mounted the runner on some Rodico and gave the tooth a bit of lateral pressure from my tweezers and voila- the tooth was moveable in either direction.

So you can move the tooth into the window on the runner but keep in mind this will change the moment that the minutes are recorded on the minute register.  I had a similar issue with a Pierce watch just a few days ago where the minute recorder would register one minute elapsed as soon as the chronograph was started.  This resulted from either the heart cam or dart tooth being slightly out of position when the chronograph runner was reset to its zero position.  I'll have to go back now and see if the dart tooth on a Pierce chronograph staff is adjustable as well.

Good luck with the hairspring.  That's one of the more difficult repairs to make but it's excellent experience.  I've mangled a few in my time and brought a few back to life as well.  ^_^

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

After a few months of minor setbacks and slow progress in addressing the inconstant chrono timing, I now have the watch together and working pretty well.  Ended up getting a replacement balance wheel w/spring for the one I tangled and chrono runner (mine had a couple mangled teeth).  Also had to straighten two teeth on the oscillating pinion with an exacta blade.   I'll post a note or two with pictures to close this thread, but first a question: 

Does anybody know the lift angle of a Venus 170?  If not, I'll try to figure it out with the 180° method, but it would be nice to know the standard.  Can't find it online. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1e8000d638402d9be0d12fb60c8c708d.jpg

Here's the finished watch. I tried lightly cleaning the dial with rodico, but it turns out rodico is not always your friend. I accidntally removed most of the 8 and took a big chunk out of the '1' in 10. I used some very small dry transfer numbers to bring them back. The '8' is actually a capital 'O' sideways with a small 'c' on top.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Never and others. Yes like you I do spend a fair amount of time reading the contents of this forum. I find it better that any other. clear, lucid, no Prima Donas, and most of all an easy access without adverts. All thanks to Mark. God bless you mate. You give so much to many of us. What if? No Mark? Hypothetically. A forum. I did run a forum for a few years. Really enjoyed it, but became so engrossed that it did affect my health. I gave to to others to run. Not been back. It was very successful and rivalled a number of large paying sites. No adverts, no others but me. I did ask and listen to members comments and it worked well.    Costs Having a domain name, £10 annually.  Register the site with a forum company, free. Build the site using the forum company guide lines, free. It looked and ran almost the same a Mark's. All the same facilities. The cost was only £5 per month, but counted visits (views). If I recall, it was that price for 5,000 views. Each extra 5,000 views increased the price by £2 per month. Success was my own personal undoing. From £5 per month initially, it rose to £60 a month and looked like increasing. This was 10 years ago. I could not afford that, and asked it anyone would like to take over and someone did. I would assume that this is the price that Mark is funding for us all. His return is our continued comments on the internet about his course, and the fact that many of the big names on YouTube mention him as their Tutor. Those of us who have done, and are still using, his course, benefit. In comparison to other courses, I can't believe how cheap it is, and the value is exceptional. It is the structure that gives the value. Long may Mark reign. Ross  
    • Get someone local to tig it ,very easy fix and should only take a few minutes so probably wouldn’t cost much ,or failing that get it very clean and silver solder it. Dell
    • Hi, The winding pin is not split, well that's how it was when I obtained the watch. The movement is front-loaded and here's a picture of where the case screws are fitted. The face picture is before I dismantled it.
    • I dont think mine is. Its an idea to have them all in one place if possible, then a quick screenshot will have them saved. Unless anyone has any other ideas of how to reconnect 
    • My email address is in my profile, feel free all to drop me a quick hello. 
×
×
  • Create New...