Jump to content

Anyone know which clockmakers mark this is?


buzz12

Recommended Posts

The mark Foreign was a requirement UK's Merchandise Marks Act, 1926 which states:

In the case of goods manufactured or produced in any country, the word "foreign" and in the case of goods manufactured or produced in part of His Majesty's Dominions outside the United Kingdom, the word "Empire"; or the definite indication of the country in which the goods were manufactured or produced; the indication being given, in either case, conspicuously etc. etc.

Most German clocks tended to use this mark instead of the country of origin due to the strong post WW1 anti German sentiments at the time.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, buzz12 said:

Thanks for the Mikrolisk idea, Rogart. Didn't find anything in S, but a very interesting site.

Tried to upload a picture of the movement but it failed. Will try again later.

I found a very similar mark but it was not excatly the same? Schocken AG . Did you see that? Tried google it and found nothing :) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ditto, great minds think alike, Rogart. It is on a triple train movement that I think came from a mantel clock.

2 hours ago, Blacklab said:

Most German clocks tended to use this mark instead of the country of origin due to the strong post WW1 anti German sentiments at the time.

Cheers Blacklab. So it might be German? Well that's some progress. The search goes on...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought ... if I was a manufacturer whose acronym included three S's then it could make sense to create a stylised logo that had three S's in one!

So we're after a non-British clock maker, maybe German, with potentially three S's for their name. I know Salomon, Siedle and Sohne and W&A Schmid-Schlenker for instance. Were there other 'foreign' makers with multiple S's?!

Undoubtedly a red herring but worth seeing if this narrows anything down! :unsure:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
    • @JohnR725 now that you've mentioned it. This is actually the second aftermarket spring (same place and brand) I ordered as the first one broke. The eye on which the arbor pulls on, broke off on the first spring after the first wind, and also it was a bit to large for the arbor. Looked like on one the second picture in the 2nd group. The second one was exactly the same, I had to bend it a bit, to give it a more prominent curve to the end of the spring so that the arbor catches the eye.  Also I believe both were 5-10mm shorter. Not that I writing that, I feel a bit dumb, as the spring might actually been the problem all along, although its advertised as a substitute to the original...     
    • The CS70 is the only one they show as annealed.  A further search on ebay, I found CS75 and CS100 annealed carbon steel strips  e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314072784422
    • Aloha and thanks for catching all these small but important details, John.  I'm going to give it a shot. The good news is I have a parts movement here with a perfect complete balance.  I will place them side by side for visual reference when doing what you outlined.  It's been a while were I've had a hobby in which I joined a forum.  I forgot just how helpful everyone can be. Mahalo. Frank.
×
×
  • Create New...