I'm as green as they come and need a scrap movement for practice. I scored this on an eBay auction for $0.99 (+ $4.99 shipping, LOL) First inspection shows it not in terrible condition. The balance and escapement move at least, but it doesn't wind (very stiff) and the keyless works are either rusted fast or broken (the stem does not move in or out). I'll be taking this very slowly, since it's educational more than anything else.
Please note the high quality cardboard case ring.
I am now working on a vintage "trench watch" movement from 1910s that I mentioned before with a question regarding identification of the movement.
(I still haven't got the exact ref. of the movement.)
As I was disassembling the movement, my screwdriver slipped and broke one of the parts that function as a spring for the click.
I tried looking for replacement but I am not sure what I should look for.
Also, one of the jewels on the wheel bridge is broken so I need a jewel as well.
Could anyone advice me on how to find the correct part for click spring and the jewel for the wheel bridge??
**Could the click spring be put back together??
Thanks. You are always of great help.
I'd like to try my hand at converting a vintage pocket into a wristwatch.
For anyone who knows, what size pocket watch should I aim for and what's the best source for an appropriate sized case? Is a 'Hunter' best for this? What's the best solution for a winding stem and if I have to go with a case that's not drilled for the stem, what's the best solution?
In other words, what best practice for this mod?? Any help would be appreciated.
I hope you are all well.
It has been 12 months or so since I last logged in, and shamefully about the same since I pulled out my box of old watches. I was browsing the 'Bay' as always and really liked the look of this Waltham Traveler. I picked it up for less than £10 and would like to use it as my first restoration project. I have undertaken minor repairs in the past but nothing like this, I hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew.
I need to find a key to see if it winds & runs, repair/service it and source the hands and a case, which is uncharted territory for me and I'm not sure how easily they are sized / sourced.
Any help, advice or pointers that you guys may be useful to me will be greatly received
Many thanks in advance
It's been a while since I've worked on a movement as old as this. A friend asked me to look at whether I could get his great-grandmother's watch working again. When I first saw it, I thought it was an old 1920's ladies wristwatch, though thought it odd that the winding stem is at 12. However, on closer examination, it resembles more of an old pocket watch movement. Now amazingly, the watch is ticking when wound but I cannot pull the stem to set the hands. On removing the dial, I can see the yoke and yoke spring on the opposite side. But would I be right in thinking that it is missing the setting lever? There is a space that looks suspiciously like there could have been a setting lever there once but I could be wrong.
I'd also be interested to hear your opinions on the age of the movement. I'm thinking around 1900.
What's more surprising is that when the case is closed, you don't see the chipped porcelain around the edges, so thick is the bevel. It looks so nice and ornate and when the case is closed. Would love to be able repair but have my doubts.
Any ideas about the keyless works?
Thanks in advance.
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Pivot jumps out of the jewel hole easily if the side shake is due to large jewel hole. What oil did you use on escape teeth? And how much? How did you apply the oil? Surely you know, poor amplitude is usually due to the drag on pallets. Did you take the readings you posted on low barrel wind? Low power? replaced the mainspring? How did you clean the balance jewels, did you peg? If the cock was previously shimmed on the outer bounds, the shim easily go unnoticed or gets washed away and you be left with excess end shake. I think the balance is fine, the issue lies in the esacpe mech and shakes need finer adjustment then proper lube.
Ah, ok, as you mentioned 220 Amp with chrono running I didn't think about this area. So here are more candidates: - remove chrono runner friction spring nd observe amp (to check if tension was too high) - check engagement of driving wheel-clutch wheel-chrono runner (if its too high and teeth are touching the opposite wheels ground amp will collapse). Do the check with the chrono running for a whole minute in case not all the wheels are 100% concentric. I think you already checked that all bearings are absolutely clean and no teeth are damaged (esp on the runner).
Hi, Can anyone help identify this movement please. I received this in a job lot of cheap project watches - Spares & repairs. The watch is supposed to be a Debaufre GMT Ocean 2 but I suspect it's fake because there's no letters or numbers on the movement and it just has a cheap feel & look to it. Plus there's a type of retaining metal ring surrounding the movement. Is that normal or common? Any help to identify this would be much appreciated. Thanks.