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    • By AdamC
      I have a lovely antique cylinder escapement pocket watch that I've serviced and got running beautifully but now I have a problem with the minute hand falling off. I think it's known as a pin hole fitting hand. On measuring the hand it shows approx. 0.40mm, and then on measuring the arbor diameter with the vernier guage, it's also 0.40mm so it's very near but won't even grip when mounted. Photos provided of the job.
      Does anybody have a technique I can use to get the hand to fit?

    • By MechanicMike
      hi y'all-newbie here and I'm sure everybody knows that buying tools for watch repair and/or mods can be expensive if you don't want some of the plentiful cheaper stuff that's out there. That would be me because I'll be turning my hobby into some sort of income soon, when I retire, and I've already spent a small fortune(for me!) on tooling. I surf all over the 'Net looking for the cheapest price; new or used, estate sales, you name it. My questions are, are there blueprints out there for some of this stuff? has anyone made their own tooling? I'm also a machinist and I'd definitely attempt to make my own, and share with everybody. Can this be done? anyone attempted it? 
    • By oldboy
      I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
      I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
      I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
    • By Bill3
      I am working on an Elgin pocket watch grade 312.  It was an estate sale purchase and was not running when purchased.  I assumed that it was not running because it was very dirty and thought cleaning would solve all the problems.  I completely disassembled it and ran it through an ultrasound cleaner and rinse. It came out bright and shiny and when I started to reassemble for the first time I saw that there was NO roller jewel!  
      So, what now? Can the roller jewel be replaced by a person with very modest ability?  I am including two pictures of the balance and roller plate.  I do not see any sign of where it was attached.  
      Thanks in advance for any guidance.  
      Bill H.

    • By eccentric59
      I'm as green as they come and need a scrap movement for practice. I scored this on an eBay auction for $0.99 (+ $4.99 shipping, LOL) First inspection shows it not in terrible condition. The balance and escapement move at least, but it doesn't wind (very stiff) and the keyless works are either rusted fast or broken (the stem does not move in or out). I'll be taking this very slowly, since it's educational more than anything else.
      Please note the high quality cardboard case ring. 

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    • I agree, that would be interesting! If/when I get around to it I'll report back.
    • Has anyone tried one of the Girard Perregaux "Presto" hand-held crystal press, or a similar one?  The design looks like it would be resistant to flexing or getting out-of-square, but as I've never even heard anyone discuss this type, and no one seems to make a modern version, I wonder if it's one of those things that just didn't work that well and was consigned to the ash-heap of horological tool history.  
    • Taking a closer look at your picture it could be the jewel is not sitting right as there appears to be a gap between the jewel edge and the chaton in the upper left quadrant in the circle. So if the jewel is sitting high at the lower left position (of the jewel) this would mean a gap and the oil migration to the upper right.
    • These Seikos (and Orients) don't need much power so this would equate with low mainspring power. 24hours sounds OK. I would wind it full and wear it for a day and see how much amplitude it has at the end of the day. Then leave it overnight and check it again in the morning. If the autowind is efficient the reading at the end of the day (close to full wind) and in the morning (50% wind?) should not vary much. Anilv
    • Got a test I think would be interesting to try. Fully wind it and put it on the time grapher. Then with a piece of peg wood or something soft grip the teeth on the barrel and push it in the direction in which it unwinds with gradually increasing force. How would the rate change/line look as you're doing this?
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