I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
I am working on an Elgin pocket watch grade 312. It was an estate sale purchase and was not running when purchased. I assumed that it was not running because it was very dirty and thought cleaning would solve all the problems. I completely disassembled it and ran it through an ultrasound cleaner and rinse. It came out bright and shiny and when I started to reassemble for the first time I saw that there was NO roller jewel!
So, what now? Can the roller jewel be replaced by a person with very modest ability? I am including two pictures of the balance and roller plate. I do not see any sign of where it was attached.
Thanks in advance for any guidance.
I'm as green as they come and need a scrap movement for practice. I scored this on an eBay auction for $0.99 (+ $4.99 shipping, LOL) First inspection shows it not in terrible condition. The balance and escapement move at least, but it doesn't wind (very stiff) and the keyless works are either rusted fast or broken (the stem does not move in or out). I'll be taking this very slowly, since it's educational more than anything else.
I am now working on a vintage "trench watch" movement from 1910s that I mentioned before with a question regarding identification of the movement.
(I still haven't got the exact ref. of the movement.)
As I was disassembling the movement, my screwdriver slipped and broke one of the parts that function as a spring for the click.
I tried looking for replacement but I am not sure what I should look for.
Also, one of the jewels on the wheel bridge is broken so I need a jewel as well.
Could anyone advice me on how to find the correct part for click spring and the jewel for the wheel bridge??
**Could the click spring be put back together??
Thanks. You are always of great help.
I'd like to try my hand at converting a vintage pocket into a wristwatch.
For anyone who knows, what size pocket watch should I aim for and what's the best source for an appropriate sized case? Is a 'Hunter' best for this? What's the best solution for a winding stem and if I have to go with a case that's not drilled for the stem, what's the best solution?
In other words, what best practice for this mod?? Any help would be appreciated.
I love the rectangular Chayka, I was only looking at those on eBay last night. Looks like we share the same eclectic taste in oddball watches ...
and as for the Wittnauer in your other post, that has a great dial......I do not have an ESA9154 driven watch yet, but this ESA9158 Talis
and the ESA9157 Montine....
Another Junghan 600 powered watch is on the way, this time a Mathey Doret, sold as non running, but I'm hopeful.....
Hopefully, having it's identical Sheffield branded brother, fully working, I should find fault finding a bit easier....
No cal number just. This as at in a cloud.
It's not in the bestfit books I have searched.
And if it is the one jberry says I'm in trouble cos it keeps great time but if I put it on timer machine it's minus 359 with lift angle set at 52 deg.
Most Oris are 38 deg to 44 deg.
So l am still confused.
Hi Gary Whats the caliber number of the movement ebauches denoted by the outer design and AS as stated by J Berry. I have a list of symbols someware if you would like a copy They are also listed in the Bestfit books. cheers mate
Thanks Guys. The train of wheels run free with no issues. I did the locking test suggested in the various books I have and the lock is good and equal using the banking pins as a gauge. The banking pins had both been bent in one direction and I just put them back vertical and straight. The guard pin had been bent further away from the roller which I have also made vertical and straight. These adjustment that had previously been made I suspect had been done trying to resolve this issue. Tomorrow I will polish the roller jewel and horns first, if no improvement then I will first bend the guard pin away again to see if it improves. I am sure this is where the fault is. It is the impulse pin not realising correctly or the guard pin rubbing.The biggest problem with these English watches is there is no easy visual access to see whats happening.