Hi, so I recently got a seiko 5 snk809 and it was working fine, I then decided to regulate it as it was losing about 1 minute a day. After I regulated it it was working fine then stopped so I shook it to wind it up and then it started working. After 5 minutes it stopped again so I wound it up and it would work but then stop after a couple of minutes. I checked to see if the watch was being winded and it was, so the watch had power but just wouldn't move, I dont know why this is, the watch has power but will only run for a minute or two when I shake it, this hasn't happened before to this watch, so if anyone could help that would be great.
Now going to tackle my second Seiko repair after fixing a displaced 7S26-C rotor/bearing (posted in another thread). I'm still a newbie at all of this, but learning by watching, reading and doing. I'm really enjoying the work, I wonder why I did not learn this art years ago.
I was given a Seiko 7009-3040 automatic for free. I took a look at it and saw that is had a bent second hand. Closer inspection showed the little [ S ] emblem has been disconnected from the face and is rolling around between the dial and the face (show here resting next to the 4 o’clock position. It was actually in the day/date window hiding at first. After a bit of tapping it came out.
I was thinking it might be not too hard to fix? Separate the movement from the case of course. Then glue the [ S ] emblem back in place on the dial using a very small amount of super glue. I can see two small holes for mounting. Bend the second hand back to straight.
So the real questions are
is super glue OK for this application, I would assume to let the dial stay out of the case for a day or two to protect the rest from 'glue fogging'. looking a the second hand, I'm almost sure it just might break if I try to straiten it? had anyone else seen this happen, the emblem falling off and fouling the hands? Thank you very much in advance.
Hi guys.. Sharing some pics of my latest purchase.
An early Seiko 5. This was for sale on local facebook page and I got it for MYR177 plus MYR10 for shipping. That's less than USD50 all in. I'm not a fan of these ridged bezels but I was drawn to the clean face as these are getting harder to find.
The case back is from Nov '67. Seiko went from the seven digit serial numbers to the six digit ones sometime in '67 so this would be an early one. Oh and a 'proof' case back is always nice! It's a snap back.. Not a front loader.
Case looks like its been polished but it's not too bad.
Another view of the dial... On most older Seiko's you would find the lume has blackened and this affects an otherwise perfect dial but since this model didn't come with lume it's pretty much perfect.
Inside is a 6119 movement... I'm particularly find if this movement and despite the bezel I think this one is a keeper.
Hi watch lovers <3
i got a Robisi automatic watch. It accidentally fell down on the floor and its glass got detached which i attached again but after some time i realised that the Synthetic ruby gem was missing from it. Therefore it lost its balance and it stops time to time.
How do i fix this?
I have a similar problem like this topic:
but my watch is a Maurice Lacroix PT 6158. It is a automatic watch. and recently my problem seems worse.
I tried to wind the crown towards 12 more than 30, but it doesn't help, and make the thing worse, the watch stop moving immediately, until i shake the watch, and it start moving a little bit. and stop again. (The watch used to be really good, and can hold for 2 days straight)
Like the other guy, i am using it regularly from 7am - 10pm. Every morning I wind the crown 5-6x to make it works until noon. and sometimes it does not working. the only things i could notice:
1. the circle movement (I don't know what is it called) that i can see on the back side of the watch move really slow. not as fast as it used to be. (I am using it for more than 4 years now).
2. if i put the watch down with diagonal position: the crown touch the table, the watch will be able to hold for about 3-6 hours. IF, i put the watch on the table, and the crown does not touch the table (again, diagonal) it will take less than 1 hour until the watch stop. IF i put the watch down (Horizontally), the crystal touch the table. the watch will stop move immediately or in less than 1 minute.
Can anyone help advise me what I should do? i wonder if it could cost so much to repair it? or just need some oiling things?
Thank you so much.
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Nucejoe has made some good points about the calendar mechanism. If the watch physically stops at least the hands stop and the secondhand keeps going that means the watch train is running it means that it's a disconnect between the gear train and our minute hand in calendar mechanism. The Canon opinion which I'm going but I guess is the type that snaps into a drive wheel. The drive wheel is driven by the gear train the Canon pinion goes on the post there is no friction there. If the friction between the drive wheel in the Canon pinion disintegrates which he can then with the least amount of friction like a calendar mechanism it just quit striving. The hands come to a stop the watch keeps running the secondhand keeps moving because it's independence of all of this. It should have been obvious when the watch was going to gather and you check the setting mechanism before you put the calendar on you would have noticed zero friction as a guess. Even now when you go into hands setting you'll feel like there's no friction at all. Then the reason why the calendar mechanism works when you manually rotate the hands is because the setting wheel is driving the Canon pinion directly which is driving the calendar mechanism and that our wheel and all of that so all of that will run from that we just will not run from the gear train running the drive wheel that's connected to the Canon pinion. But that's just my wild guess and then we throw in Nucejoe's possible calendar mechanism increased friction than we need to really isolate all of this or we can continue to guess.
I am not sure if I correctly understand you here. Only the seconds hand keeps running or minute and hour hands do move too, in case minute and hour hands move and show time right, then the fault is in date change train including date jumper mech, but if it doesn't show time correctly ( appear to loose time) then its loose canon pinion. You can tighten a loose canon pinion, use grease to lube it, not oil.
always confusing when it's two separate watches but I'm going to assume they're basically identical. What was their condition before you service them in other words did have a problem before and the problem came after you've serviced or was the problems there before? Then timing machine results you do have a timing machine don't you? In other words what's the running condition of the watch like of the watches barely running that would be an issue for a calendar change then you fix the problem? so I'm guessing we only have to worry about the 2778 then? Yes this is what happens when you have multiple watches with too much going on it becomes confusing. then it would be helpful to have a picture of the dial side components because we didn't memorize every single calendar change mechanism. one of the places to look is the Canon pinion assembly in other words to visit have enough force to drive the calendar mechanism? I'm having to guess because I'm not finding a good tech sheet that shows the parts. If it's a kinda Canon pinion I think which is the Canon pinion that slips into her presses into with friction with the wheel if it no longer has and the friction then a cannot drive the calendar but if you manually set the watch that drives the Canon pinion directly and everything should function. then if you two of the parts list it would be listed as canon pinion with drive wheel. .But it would be helpful in the picture just to make sure http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2778
I think what the problem here is you're asking the wrong question. The question is what part number do I need so that I can end up with the correct balance? Or the correct balance staff for that matter? If you look at the second link it lists the parts for your watch. This is always where things get interesting? you'll notice for balance staff they list seven different ones. For balance complete they do show three but if you look at the part numbers there's only two. then I attached some images from bestfit online and of course additional problems perhaps. Notice you have lots of choices and probably only one that's right. then the physical bestfit book becomes interesting because is an indication that there are variations which is of course why there so many listed in the images. but fortunately it looks like you want the basic simple one which should be 100/66. unfortunately for the third link it's out of stock. then providing this is the right staff number I snipped out a couple of more images of the bestfit book which is what the dimensions mean and the dimensions. One of the irritating things of the physical book is on the dimension chart if you're trying to find a particular staff you just have to be lucky to go through the list and find it it be really nice if they list of the sizes by the numeric staff also. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_1287 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=AS_1287 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=U\ZD]J http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.A/id.151223/.f