Now going to tackle my second Seiko repair after fixing a displaced 7S26-C rotor/bearing (posted in another thread). I'm still a newbie at all of this, but learning by watching, reading and doing. I'm really enjoying the work, I wonder why I did not learn this art years ago.
I was given a Seiko 7009-3040 automatic for free. I took a look at it and saw that is had a bent second hand. Closer inspection showed the little [ S ] emblem has been disconnected from the face and is rolling around between the dial and the face (show here resting next to the 4 o’clock position. It was actually in the day/date window hiding at first. After a bit of tapping it came out.
I was thinking it might be not too hard to fix? Separate the movement from the case of course. Then glue the [ S ] emblem back in place on the dial using a very small amount of super glue. I can see two small holes for mounting. Bend the second hand back to straight.
So the real questions are
is super glue OK for this application, I would assume to let the dial stay out of the case for a day or two to protect the rest from 'glue fogging'. looking a the second hand, I'm almost sure it just might break if I try to straiten it? had anyone else seen this happen, the emblem falling off and fouling the hands? Thank you very much in advance.
Hi guys.. Sharing some pics of my latest purchase.
An early Seiko 5. This was for sale on local facebook page and I got it for MYR177 plus MYR10 for shipping. That's less than USD50 all in. I'm not a fan of these ridged bezels but I was drawn to the clean face as these are getting harder to find.
The case back is from Nov '67. Seiko went from the seven digit serial numbers to the six digit ones sometime in '67 so this would be an early one. Oh and a 'proof' case back is always nice! It's a snap back.. Not a front loader.
Case looks like its been polished but it's not too bad.
Another view of the dial... On most older Seiko's you would find the lume has blackened and this affects an otherwise perfect dial but since this model didn't come with lume it's pretty much perfect.
Inside is a 6119 movement... I'm particularly find if this movement and despite the bezel I think this one is a keeper.
Hi watch lovers <3
i got a Robisi automatic watch. It accidentally fell down on the floor and its glass got detached which i attached again but after some time i realised that the Synthetic ruby gem was missing from it. Therefore it lost its balance and it stops time to time.
How do i fix this?
I have a similar problem like this topic:
but my watch is a Maurice Lacroix PT 6158. It is a automatic watch. and recently my problem seems worse.
I tried to wind the crown towards 12 more than 30, but it doesn't help, and make the thing worse, the watch stop moving immediately, until i shake the watch, and it start moving a little bit. and stop again. (The watch used to be really good, and can hold for 2 days straight)
Like the other guy, i am using it regularly from 7am - 10pm. Every morning I wind the crown 5-6x to make it works until noon. and sometimes it does not working. the only things i could notice:
1. the circle movement (I don't know what is it called) that i can see on the back side of the watch move really slow. not as fast as it used to be. (I am using it for more than 4 years now).
2. if i put the watch down with diagonal position: the crown touch the table, the watch will be able to hold for about 3-6 hours. IF, i put the watch on the table, and the crown does not touch the table (again, diagonal) it will take less than 1 hour until the watch stop. IF i put the watch down (Horizontally), the crystal touch the table. the watch will stop move immediately or in less than 1 minute.
Can anyone help advise me what I should do? i wonder if it could cost so much to repair it? or just need some oiling things?
Thank you so much.
This is my first disassembly. The movement is a 7s26 from a Seiko 5 watch. It was running a few minutes at a time before disassembly. The oscillating weight was in two pieces. It appears the three pins(?) have all broken.
My questions are: Can this be repaired? Is it as simple as pushing the broken pins out and replacement? What tool would I need to perform such a repair. I know I can replace the complete oscillating weight, but what fun would that be?
Thanks for your time and knowledge,
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Greetings all. I just serviced a Girard-Perregaux automatic movement. It seems to run fine, but ends up stopping for reasons unknown. It seems like it may have something to do with the center-wheel contacting the top of the barrel. If there is clearance, it is by very little. It seems to stop most often once the automatic mechanism is replaced. I'm wondering if by tightening the automatic mechanism down to the train-bridge, it's dropping that center-wheel to barrel clearance to nothing, thereby stopping the movement. Does anyone have experience with this ETA 1256 auto movement that can offer any ideas as to what the issues might be? What do you think would cause the barrel to be so close to the underneath of the center-wheel? Any help is appreciated. Many thanks in advance. Cheers.
I have studied the data sheet at some length and there is nothing obvious to me. On the right of the frame drawing there are a couple of sections showing 2 screws - I assume ? these are for fixing the movement and the strap might just fit these screws - but I would then expect two straps to be supplied to fit the two screws.
Bought an upright tool off eBay and there was one problem, no bottom alignment rod. So, found a piece of stock Brass and carved it up on my Lathe. This is the result. The nails on one of the hinges were out and the hinge was rusted in place. So I used some small pointy watchmakers screws and replaced the nails. I then oiled the hinges and worked them in nicely. Next, the box fabric was unglued on the Tom so I lifted up the fabric and spread a light layer of Elmer’s glue between the wood and the black cloth: and put 4 magic books on top for an hour. Next step was to blacken the box as there were chips of cloth missing and it just looked tattered. So I used Kiwi Color shoe shine and it worked like a charm. Now I needed to shine up the cloth on the inside of the box the same was...and used a paintbrush for the corners bu dipping it in the show shine. Then I needed to clean up the red velvet on the inside so I used a lint role: as well as tearing off a piece for the tight spots. I also needed to clean up some aging mold sobthe line roll with some help with a fine screwdriver worker great. I then shoe polished where the mold was. The last step was to polish the Uprighting Tool using Peek and a lot of elbow grease. Here is the before and afterAnd the Final. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro