Jump to content

Strange jumping amplitude Rolex cal.1570


Oyster

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone !

I got a very strange problem after cleaning the movement 1570, the amplitude are good at 280~300 . 10 min later it drop around 130~170 and then it go back up to 280 again for a while, sometimes it completely stop. I did manually clean the jewel and all the cap jewel, the problem seem remain.Thanks for your time !

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assuming that all of the pivots right the way through from the main spring barrel to the balance are scrupulously clean and correctly lubricated, your main candidates are;

  • bent or badly worn pivot
  • damaged teeth
  • damaged jewel

Any one of these (or any combination) anywhere in the train could cause the problem.

I would strip it back down again, inspect all of the jewels and all of the pivots and teeth under good magnification and see if I could spot anything amiss. If not then the only route is to reassemble in stages and check the free running of the train at each stage. If there is a problem with intermittent power loss in the train then it will eventually come to light.

The only other potential cause that I can think of would be a distorted main spring intermittently jamming in the barrel. You also need to check the main spring arbor in the barrel, and in the main plate and bridge pivots for freedom.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update, I tried everything and inspect every parts, non are damage, but after I remove the calendar driving wheel is run good ! , so I put it back to test, and the watch got amplitude jump again. I noticed that if I tight the screw on the calendar driving wheel it cause this problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it possible that the wrong screw has been used on the calendar wheel?

Thinking out loud is it possible that too long a screw is projecting too far out the other side of the plate and just impinging on the spokesman of a wheel enough to take power but not stop the train. Then when the spoke clears the screw amplitude is restored until the next spoke.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
×
×
  • Create New...