Jump to content

Screwdrivers dressing


Recommended Posts

This should put your mind at rest. Click on this link.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/sdriver/sdriver.html




That's a really good link for a newly like me OldHippy, thanks. Coincidentally I put an oilstone and jig (plus pegwood and a few other bits) in my virtual basket earlier today with our friends at Cousins, will review the order tomorrow before hitting the pay button.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

From scouseget posting

"3). I watched a YouTube video yesterday from the AWCI, which stated that not only should a screwdriver be just the right width for the screw slot, it should never bottom out in the slot but rather sit just above it"

Whilst I understand what is being said and why, good luck with that, especially the hollow ground enthusiasts. May get it to work on one screw in one watch but honestly! ?

my test is a bit sort of simple but I found I was doing it without thinking. With the screwdriver of the right size in the slot vertically try to roll it back and forth between thumb and forefinger, if it moves at all "without the screw moving" the driver is not fit, dress or change the bit.

Cheers,

Vic

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, Vich said:

"3). I watched a YouTube video yesterday from the AWCI, which stated that not only should a screwdriver be just the right width for the screw slot, it should never bottom out in the slot but rather sit just above it"

Whilst I understand what is being said and why, good luck with that, especially the hollow ground enthusiasts. May get it to work on one screw in one watch but honestly! ?

I agree with you. And some cuts are so shallow that unless the driver touches the bottom, no good grip is really possible.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

sharpening a screwdriver on a flat stone makes a wedge,  a wedge will spread the screw slot.  or a wedge shaped driver can snap off half the screw head.  (have you seen any watch screws with half a head?  I have. the screw driver head should reach the bottom of the slot. enough for now,  vinn.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Vinn,

I agree, the drivers must be sharpened to fit the slot but also finished off by flattenning the sharp end of the "Wedge" so that the flat part is in maximum contact with the bottom of the slot and the sides just about touching. It is a painstaking process that has to be done on each size of screwdriver. 

I have bought Bergeon replacement driver heads rather than do it myself as although I can do it, I am quite lazy ;) though I do "dress my blades" which is not a major bit of work and you usually follow the original design of the blade.  The Bergeon replacements are provided in the condition that I try to emulate when forced into adjusting a driver myself.  Most of my instruction on such matters was gained from a book "PracticaI Watch Repair by "Donald de Carle"      under " Essential Tools" I would never attempt hollow grinding on a small, say .5 mm or any small  screwdriver, quite frankly think that reduction of the metal available would weaken the blade considerably.  In fact to be honest, I have tried hollow grinding only once, on a 2 mm blade under magnification and life is too short. 

Having said all that I honestly believe that it is a personal decision and everyone should do what they want to do, if wrong decisions are made you soon realise and move on. Either way this forum is a great place for a frank friendly exchange of views that for an amateur tinkerer like myself has been really useful.

Cheers,

Vic

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

if the screw driver tip does not touch the bottom of the slot,  you are driving a wedge in and might spread or break the screw head. have you ever seen a screw head with one side broken off?  to prevent making a wedge the blade is "hollow ground".  the tip touches the bottom - and  99.5% contact with the sides of the slot.   i hate to see a watch with distorted  screw heads.   use "blueing"  to view the contact.   vin

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
27 minutes ago, Matt1 said:

I am looking at a vintage screwdriver set on Ebay and am wondering if you can get replacement bits for these; are bit diameters relatively standard, or do you need to determine the diameter and try to match it?

Put the link up and I'll take a look and let you know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
On 21/06/2016 at 10:33 AM, Scouseget said:

Hi. 

When I first started in this hobby, I decided not to go cheap on the tools so bought really good quality tweezers and screwdrivers, etc. This leads me to my question on screwdrivers which is that as  the screwdriver set I bought (there are 9 of them in a rotating holder) and came with multiple replacement blades for each size, I assumed then that when a blade chipped, I just junked it and put in a replacement blade, however due to my inexperience I found I was replacing them really often, and in fact soon had to order more of the smaller sizes so:

1). Is this the right approach, i.e., just junk any damaged blades and replace them with new ones and if not, why not considering how cheap the blades are?

2). If I should be sharpening them, can I use a diamond stone as I already have a set of these that i use in my furniture making hobby? I also have water stones - would these be better?

3). I watched a YouTube video yesterday from the AWCI, which stated that not only should a screwdriver be just the right width for the screw slot, it should never bottom out in the slot but rather sit just above it so that the screwdriver actually jams up against the slot walls, which will prevent it slipping out and damaging the screw and/or screw hole. Is this correct because I assumed that the screwdrivers, especially given how expensive they were, would be inherently designed like this? Does this mean that even replacement blades should be adjusted on a stone to assure that they do not bottom out, and what if some screws have shallower slots than others for a given width, should I then customize the screwdrivers to ensure the correct fit?

I should mention that, although I'm getting better at it, I still have screwdrivers slipping out of the screw slots and wreaking havoc, well at least on my ego, if not the movement itself.

Should you have any other advise regarding the maintenance of screwdrivers, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks from sunny Edmonton, which is now being subjected to a plague of mosquitoes thanks to recent heavy rains. And we thought we were going to escape that pleasure this year!

What I do is I polish mine and look at them under a loupe when they're on the screw head with good lighing I sometimes mark my screwdrivers. I sometimes have another set. Polish them and mark them for the movement I use them on. Between the 2 sets I adjust them if the tolerances are slightly off. I despise scratched or nicked screws. And I've worked on many watch movements that careless jewelers have serviced before 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought the following three products from CousinsUK, and by following the instructions in this video it has been working extremely well for me.

Bergeon 2461 • Can hold screwdrivers with body up to Ø6.95mm
Rectangle Aluminium Oxide Combination, Norton
Oil 3 in 1 Small 100ml

As I have A*F screwdrivers, which I'm happy with, I first tried this A*F Screwdriver Sharpener with Stone but it worked extremely poorly. Only the smallest screwdrivers fitted the hole in the "roller". Plus, the screwdriver is held in place by a screw in the roller which is tightened against the shaft of the screwdriver twisting it so that it doesn't end up parallel with the stone. Also, the stone is very soft and deteriorates easily, like if it was made of compressed fine sand. Stay away from it!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎2018‎-‎01‎-‎15 at 7:39 PM, jdm said:

You can buy that kind of tool on AliX for $2.48, shipping included. Not much less than £3.30 on Cousins.

Right, as the included stone from Cousins is useless, hench worth... nothing! ;)

I never shop from AliX as I prefer CousinsUK for my watch tool needs. Usually they never fail my expectations, with the mentioned screwdriver sharpener kit being the only exception (so far).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/16/2017 at 12:45 AM, vinn3 said:

if the screw driver tip does not touch the bottom of the slot,  you are driving a wedge in and might spread or break the screw head. have you ever seen a screw head with one side broken off?  to prevent making a wedge the blade is "hollow ground".  the tip touches the bottom - and  99.5% contact with the sides of the slot.   i hate to see a watch with distorted  screw heads.   use "blueing"  to view the contact.   vin

Hi vinn3 All agreed, it works for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎1‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 9:04 PM, Eckehardt said:

What I do is I polish mine and look at them under a loupe when they're on the screw head with good lighing I sometimes mark my screwdrivers. I sometimes have another set. Polish them and mark them for the movement I use them on.   Between the 2 sets I adjust them if the tolerances are slightly off. I despise scratched or nicked screws. And I've worked on many watch movements that careless jewelers have serviced before 

"carless jewelers' ?  I say - amateur  mechanics !  it happens in cameras also.  so, get your money back  and

 

learn how to sharpen a screw driver. vin

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi! I am in the process of restoring a rado captain cook mkII. I want to remove the rotor, but I am not sure how to and need some help. As you can hopefully see on the photo there are 2 screws. The left one has two positions, the right one looks like a regular screw. I have tried turning the right one, but it does not give even after using more force than I would expect. Anyone know the function of the left screw with the two positions and how to remove the rotor? Thanks!!
    • Welcome to the group Stirky. You can search for just about every subject in the craft here. Don't be afraid to ask if you can't find the answer that may have already been covered ( some ad nauseum LOL ). You don't have to buy Bergeon to get good quality. There are many decent mid-range tools available that will last you a lifetime. Cousins would be a good place to start . Cheers from across the pond ! Randy
    • I picked up a similar amount of these jewels some years ago in a watch and clock fair. Every now and then they come in handy. This week I've got a rubbed in bombe jewel in the balance cock that is cracked and needs replacing. Very handy to have a vintage assortment of these type of jewels!
    • Great diagram with the teeth and pinion count. Simple way to reduce the speed of the hour wheel by the 12:1 minute wheel. Genius and yet so simple. Always good to reinforce the principal by what you have done in your drawing. Keep doing that. I had a drawing on my wall for years showing me this which is very similar to the drawing you have done. Here's a formula to work out the beats per hour of a watch movement. The movement's BPH is dictated by the wheel teeth and pinion count and the hairspring being vibrated to the correct BPH by finding the pinning up point on the hairspring using a vibrating tool.  The reason in the formula there is X2 on the top line is because there are two pallet stones.
×
×
  • Create New...