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    • I’m definitely a hobbyist hack, so keep that in mind, I find myself grabbing my brass tweezers more often than anything else. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    • Today I'm wearing a Casio MDV102. Apparently it's a fairly rare model and often sells for over $100 on the Bay. Picked mine up at a pawn shop for $5
    • I thought my Snap-On screwdrivers were expensive Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
    • Never used brass tweezers in my 30 years as a watch/clockmaker. I always used Dumont tweezers Antimagnetic Stainless Steel
    • Hello all, I'm servicing a CYMA 234 and have found a few gremlins. First the mainspring was jimmied badly and was slipping with minimal tension. Then, I found what I thought was a worn or broken staff. I was able to source one and realize that the pivots look just the same, therefore concluding that my initial assessment was wrong. Something nagged me to remove the pallet fork and put a little power in the mainspring and while the train gear spins "freely" at the very end it has somewhat of a sluggish end. This is a movement that I washed and oiled just a few days ago.  So, I tried looking up more specific info on how to best assess the train but I'm not coming up with anything specific. I recall in the past there is this minute retrograde spin that the escape wheel does when there's truly no friction on the train corresponding to the mainspring fully releasing and then a tiny overstretch recoil that makes the train go backwards a hair. Well, I can't find that reference and I'm not feeling very good about my train wheel, but before I take it apart again I wanted to consult with wiser peeps here and learn something. Thank you!  
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