Hi, so I recently got a seiko 5 snk809 and it was working fine, I then decided to regulate it as it was losing about 1 minute a day. After I regulated it it was working fine then stopped so I shook it to wind it up and then it started working. After 5 minutes it stopped again so I wound it up and it would work but then stop after a couple of minutes. I checked to see if the watch was being winded and it was, so the watch had power but just wouldn't move, I dont know why this is, the watch has power but will only run for a minute or two when I shake it, this hasn't happened before to this watch, so if anyone could help that would be great.
I am after a clasp for an old digital junghans watch, I wasn't sure if this forum permits these requests?
I did check the forum rules and it makes no mention of it only about selling.
Can one of the more seasoned members help before I post the request?
I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
Hi, the bracelet on my SARB033 is a D385-3C, it's currently too small for me to wear. I have two spare links, but no pins for them. On removing a pin from the bracelet I found it to be nothing like a cotter pin, nor did it appear to be a "pin and tube". It was more like a pin with a thicker end that was knurled .
I'm looking for resources to purchase a few of these pins, also links and pins for a JDM Seiko (a Grey Ghost titanium kinetic)
Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Happy New Year everyone!
I've been working on a lovely old Hudson watch with a Felsa 415 inside. I've got the watch running (first automatic!), but I can't make heads or tails of the watch band. I want to adjust it so that it fits me, but I've only every adjusted the old u-pin style. Is there a trick to these older watch straps or are they not adjustable?
I attached a few pictures to help. The only markings on it are "JB Champion" (The JB is in a triangle).
Looks like a interesting video, do you have the link to it saved?
Have you looked if the part nr 4 isn't actually 2 pieces?
The lower which is in contact with the winding pinion might have a upper removable part called a crown wheel core.
I think it used to be called no 423 in other Patek movements. The core usually fitts on the upside the lower crown wheel. It has a bronze bushing fitted to it when the bridge goes into place.
If you look closely at the lower picture you can see it most likely is a two piece part.
Push in the middle of the wheel with some appropiate tool to see if it doesn't split appart.
Yes, those Esembl-O-Graf booklets/DVD, etc. would be very handy indeed. I remember seeing them being sold at NAWCC marts. But since I was only interested in pocket watches at the time, I never snagged any. I do remember a friend buying a bunch of them. Good thought. I had forgotten about them.
I think you’re referring to a comment I made in your post about Seiko mainsprings. I did not say he was the master, I said something along the lines of I think he has a bit of experience with the Seiko 7S series of movts.
I’ll add my experience with the 700x series which is the basis for the 7S series and beyond:
- The GR springs are close but not exactly equivalent to the springs I’ve extracted from 7002 barrels - they were slightly thinner and not quite as wide. I found, and your experience may be different, that the original used MS worked better than a new GR equivalent.
- I’ve had terrible difficulty cleaning and re-greasing the barrel and mainsprings for these movts. I’ve used 8217 and found using the same quantity I might use in a 6309 allowed the spring to slip too soon and too dramatically. If I cut the quantity in half it worked better but still not great. I have not tried using a lot more nor have I used Kluber.
- I eventually stopped screwing around with splitting these barrels open since Seiko never intended for them to be and started using factory new replacements which come complete and ready to install.
- BUT, and it’s a big but, while I can get expected reserve out of the factory new replacements when wound at the ratchet screw I and some members on one of the Japanese watch forums have experienced issues with building reserve when worn. Not certain if it the reduction wheel being worn down or the hooks on the pawl levers not quite being sharp enough to wind the watch efficiently. Or maybe sitting at my desk during the day isn’t enough activity for these movts.
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