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    • By PaulnKC
      All,
      I am very nearsighted (between -6 and -7 in both eyes). With astigmatism. Now, in my late 50's I also have significant nearsightedness.
      I thought a flip up visor - which I could wear with my glasses would be best. I purchased an OptiVisor with a flip-down loupe. But not happy at all with the visual quality.
      I know you get what you pay for in optics. What is the best type of device for someone with old-bad eyes.
      I have never used a regular loupe - but thinking that may be the way to go. Any of you guys (or gals) have a reccomendation?
      -Paul
    • By rduckwor
      If this is inappropriate, please delete the post.
       
      I have an acquaintance who is closing his shop due to health after 43 years.  He has a large quantity of parts, stems, crowns, crystals and all the paraphernalia one would accumulate after a long period in the business.  He needs to liquidate his shop.  This isn't a "Hey do you have a __ for a __." kind of post.  We're talking serious stuff here.  Mass quantities.   If you need parts, equipment, etc. for your practice, please let me know.  I will pass along his email contact  to you.  Obviously, this is useful primarily only to those in the U.S. due to shipping costs.  But he has a huge amount of useful goods and is 100 miles South of Atlanta.  PM me if you need something.
       
      Thanks,

      RMD
    • By BrianG1
      Hi, I have a few bits and pieces, and clocks. And I am very interested in horology tips, conunundrms etc.
    • By marcoskaiser
      Would it be interesting for this forum to set up a list where we could exchange things like parts and tools?  I happen to have duplicate tools from my lot purchases, and feel that those could be better used. No money involved. Would that be feasible?
    • By Lenj
      Hi,
      Has anyone got one of these lathes?? if so are they any good for repairing pivots etc..I know they would not be any use for heavy work, but thought I would ask first..
      Have a good weekend all..
      Thanks Len


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    • How are you holding the screw for polishing? Typically it would be held in a tripod tool if going for a flat polish. I would recommend a couple of paper steps before polishing, I typically use 20 micron for serious flattening then 12 micron and go straight from there (after cleaning) to diamond paste, Aluminum is not a good substrate for polishing, the surface oxidizes in minutes and that is as hard as ruby. If you don't want to find or make a tin or zinc plate, thick plexiglass works well. Roughen the surface with a clean file before using.
    • polishing or restoring screw heads is an art !       with a lathe (or a drill press)  cut the head and then go to "wet and dry" sand paper to 1,000 grit,   you are done.  the slots are a whole different art.     vin  
    • The original application to build the "UK Time Corporation" factory that became Timex Dundee was posted by Timex in January 1946, according to this article. https://www.eveningtelegraph.co.uk/2016/01/29/dundees-timex-new-group-to-archive-stories-of-controversial-factory/ Production began in the early fifties and Timex produced watches and a variety of other hi-tec products there for 47 years. Little remains of the factory complex now, most of that area of Dundee having been "redeveloped" into the usual collection of out of town shopping centers and small industrial units.
    • Doubt that diamond paste will be effective on a filed surface as it will be 'rough' by polished standards.  ! would start with wet&dry papers going down to 2500 grit then go onto the polishing pastes.  Thoroughly clean after every grit/paste size and do on a flat plate.  Dialux bar polishing medium (grey I think for steel) may be better than diamond paste.
    • Quite cool pice of history..
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