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What Case vice do you use


Tunokies

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I'm asking because I have just destroyed another case vice

The one on the right came apart last time I used it at the part where you screw it in. Basically, I do stuff with dive watches and wanted taller pins to hold the case secure as the screw down case backs can sometimes be very tight.

The one on the right seemed the best bet at the time because it has a sturdy metal body, chunky screw thread and big pins. The weak point however is the plastic knob which comes off the shaft.  The small one on the left is really cheap and did the job, but isn't really man enough and the pins are too small.

So my requirements are: Price, Sturdy, Tallish pins

Thanks in advance

20160828_235503.jpg

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This was the main case opener I used along with the case clamp you have the one on the right in your picture. I never had any problems. The only thing to add is I understand the type I had is no longer made all you can get know is the single handed version.

JAXA-2.jpg

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O have been experiencing the same problems, and have both of those you have there.  I'm actually considering making different sizes from wood to accommodate regular watches I have in for servicing, but interested to hear others experiences..

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The pins are always the problem with these things. Can't say I've ever had the main body of the case vice break in anyway, though.  My only advice is sometimes throwing over a piece of chamois cloth over the case vice before securing the watch often helps a great deal in stopping watches that don't fit perfectly from moving around. 

Edited by Ishima
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case  holders:  they still make wooden ones.  or  you can make them as  ssteel sugests.  those plastic ones are just mvt.  holders (no matter what ebay says) and will not servive the tourk of removing a screw back case. as mentioned above,  "place the case holder in the bench vise" so you will have both hands free.  another good thing about the wood ones is you can "carve" on them to try to get 100 % contact with the watch case.  vinn

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Well, no matter how you want to call them I've removed many very tight casebacks using the plastic yellow holder pictured above and a single handled tool. Only once or twice it was needed to put it in a vice.

As in most task the difference is how a tool is used.

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I suppose that's the difference between the two handed one like I had and the single which is available. If you can pick up a good two handed one from ebay you should get it.  

What is being said here is that the case holder pins or nylon cover can slip. Not the case opener itself.

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Wait a second, some people use case vices without securing the case vice to a bench vice??? That is absolutely what you need to do, how is the case vice helping you if the case vice itself is not secure? That's like trying to use a bench vice without having it secured to the bench. Most case vices (other than this interesting seiko one) are designed and intended for use in a bench vice. 

Edited by Ishima
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Weeell, here's what I do.

Start with case in hand and sticky ball. Works for me more often than not. Very safe.

If I have trouble holding the case, put it in the case vise, lets me get a better grip.

If ball doesn't work, grab and adjust the jaxa wrench.

If it seems that significant force will be needed, mount the case holder in a vise. Still most likely to have a problem from a slipping wrench, but two hands can keep things aligned better. 

Since that is the extent of my equipment, if it still doesn't work, smash the watch with a hammer :)

I don't start with the vise because my wife would be quite perturbed if I screwed one of my vices to the dining room table, which is where I usually work on watches. 

And really, I've only got to the smashing part once. Was quite frustrated :wacko:

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2 hours ago, jdm said:

What is being said here is that the case holder pins or nylon cover can slip. Not the case opener itself.

I'm well aware of that. If you have the two handed tool you can distribute your force evenly to unscrew the back which in turn will spread the force evenly between the four pins there fore it is unlikely that the plastic knobs will come off. As I said I never had any problems.

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Wait a second, some people use case vices without securing the case vice to a bench vice???
Yes, as dadaistic said, it's not always necessary to to use the holder in a vice, or even use the holder at all. I also don't keep the vice on the working desk all the time, for various reasons.
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The Seiko holder will "stick" to the bench quite securely, for more tough jobs, i.e. rusted and set in backs, a different holder is required and yes, a bench vice that will hold the (different type) holder. Something like this:

ofrei-750.jpg 

Which will "grab" this other type:

cwr175.00.jpg  But then we are back to where we started! :)

In any case, notice the bottom part of the holder how it conforms to adapt to the vise pictured above. My understanding is that the pins (for some brands) can be had in different heights but this is not confirmed.

Cheers,

Bob

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22 minutes ago, bobm12 said:

 

this other type:

cwr175.00.jpg 

Being made of metal is a big improvement already and that's the one I'm buying next.

The main reason why the pins or posts slip out in plastic holder is because when tightened they them open up at the top, at which point the force by the case is not perpendicular anymore and pushes them out. At least I think so.

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I believe you are correct about the pins, jdm. Also the material is kind of slippery at certain tensions or so it seems. The trick is to "push" down on the case as the fixture is tightened. I particularly haven't have much trouble with divers or any other cases...there is still the exception though.

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Guys, wow. Didn't expect so many responses so quickly. Thanks. This must have hit a nerve. It seems there may be no perfect case vice. However I'm quite keen to explore the options suggested. Typical application is for a Seiko diver type case so height of case up to about 15mm. I haven't got a bench vice yet, just one in the garage.

I think I may have unknowingly knackered it when trying to get the case back off a Bulova Deep Sea (pics enclosed) where the rather large caseback gasket had turned into tar (apparently it's a known thing with these watches and the gasket must have been made with an odd compound at the time.) Then when I tried on a newer watch the weakened holder gave way.

bobm12 - The seiko one appeals, especially after SSTEEL's suggested rakuten link. How tall are the plastic pins? 

vinn3 - Wooden one is a good idea but I don't have the gear to do any wood routing. Anyone with a SKX007/7s26-0020 case fancy doing this?  Would pay.

SSTEEL - The ones in those 2 links from cousins do look quite meaty. Anyone used either of them?

N.b. Really like this forum, but not sure how to get updates to threads I've either started or am interested in sent through to me.

 

New Image a.jpg

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Pins are about 14 mm tall, all useable height. They are straight up not curved or tapered.

Correct but with some case/lugs shape it would not be a bad idea to adapt the post to the lug profile. That to increase the contact surface between tool and case and improve stability.

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I have to confess to being a bit "old school" here.

IMG_1183.JPG

I got this in a job lot of stuff that came from an old watchmaker. It was a bit grubby but has cleaned up well.

I really should get around to screwing it to a wooden base plate that I can clamp to the bench top when I want to use it. As it is I just but it up against the raised bead around the edge of my bench and that is enough to stop it rotating with the wrench.

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