Jump to content

Omega 1171 bracelet sizing help...please

PWR

By PWR
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

PWR Member

PWR

Posted
Posted

I bit the bullet and purchased a brand new Omega 1171/633 bracelet for my son's inherited moon watch.  I've seen videos on sizing the band and they tend to involve a lot of cursing!   The English one is my favorite as the speaker uses the F word but makes it sound so good!

Well...I tried to size the thing and I understand the F word when it relates to the pins you need to knock out.   One of four was removed nicely.  The other three seem to buckle as I tried to beat them out with a small punch.  I've wrestled two of the three out.....only damaging the spare part of the band slightly.  I have 1 more to go....

Looking for advice or what the heck the secret might be....these are not screws...they are split pins and I am pishing them per the arrow on the band.....

thanks in advance

Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ishima Super WRT Addict

Ishima

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm not sure what advice to give you, I've adjusted far more bracelets than I could guess, but the only times split pin bracelets have ever given me any trouble the solutions have always been the same and fairly obvious, if it doesn't hit out easily with my standard 0.8mm bracelet punch, double check bracelet is ideally placed in plastic bracelet vice (blocks aren't as good) and try a shortened punch and a harder, sharper tap. Once it's moved a little you can usually switch back to a longer punch. 

(You can make a custom bracelet punch if you have an old discarded screwdriver (0.8-1.00 are ideal), remove the top spinning part,  take a screwdriver blade or any random metal pins you might have from anything that will fit, cut to size, and file flat)

I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence with that, but you never know what isn't as obvious as you think. 

Edited by Ishima
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted

Some pins can be incredibly stubborn. Usually some corrosion is involved. The worse are jubilee types where the center piece doesn't supports the sides and it makes them bend.

PWR take things calmly, I find useful to start with a pin press, the best is the plastic one, it cost 64 cents shipped.

If I can find it again I'll repost the video of the lady calling a.....e a bracelet screw hahaha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
PWR Member

PWR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys....I did use a 0.8 mm bracelet punch and small hammer to try and get the pins out...as I said -- 1 of 4 went smoothly.   Brand new band so no corrosion....

I will need to research plastic pin press....

Where can I find replacement pins for Omega 1171 ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
PWR Member

PWR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 8/21/2016 at 7:02 PM, jdm said:

 

Some pins can be incredibly stubborn. Usually some corrosion is involved. The worse are jubilee types where the center piece doesn't supports the sides and it makes them bend.

 

PWR take things calmly, I find useful to start with a pin press, the best is the plastic one, it cost 64 cents shipped.

 

If I can find it again I'll repost the video of the lady calling a.....e a bracelet screw hahaha.

JDM -- your advice saved the day.  I bought a small plastic pin press off e-bay for $5.00.  It is injection molded cheapo thing but it worked great!!!!

I had struggled so without it and with it I went 4 for 4.

 

I do like this forum and all the great advice out there!!!!

 

Thanks!!!!

 

Steve

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Jon
      Introducing myself

      By Jon · Posted

      Hi there  
    • Jon
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Jon · Posted

      Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • JohnR725
      Main spring

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • Jon
      Main spring

      By Jon · Posted

      I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is. I've attached a lesson regarding mainsprings, focussing on the size and strength of the spring within the barrel, you might find helpful. Unfortunately it is a PDF converted from a PowerPoint presentation, but only a slide was lost that was originally a video of fitting a mainspring   Lesson 5 The mainspring.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...