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Automatic Oiler and Capstones


Scouseget

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I just splurged on a Bergeon 1A automatic oiler. This was definitely a big indulgence as they're expensive, and can easily be superseded by more conventional methods of lubricating, however I have had little success in oiling capstones then refitting them without smearing the oil all over the place so thought this would eliminate that problem. 

Reading the really sp**BLEEP** instructions that came with it, it states that it can be used for balance bearings of all kinds without removing the cap jewel. I was always under the impression that it is crucial to remove the cap jewels, then give them a good going over with cleaning fluid and peg wood, which is what I've done to this point, but frankly I have managed to lose some of them in this process so would love to just leave them in place and use the automatic oiler instead. 

If I was to do this, would there be a downside?  Do most advanced and/or professional watchmakers actually leave the cap jewels in place, and if so, do the usual cleaning methods, either a conventional cleaning machine, or an ultrasonic (which is what I use) get down to the cap jewel and clean it sufficiently? 

As the reservoir in the oiler looks as though it's going to use most of what's left of my meagre supply of 9010 oil, could I also use it to lubricate open jewels, such as the fourth wheel and the escape wheel, or is that bad form?

And advice you can give will be appreciated and what would really be appreciated would be a guide to the effective use of an automatic olier as they look pretty delicate and hard to set up properly. This would definitely be worth several beers when you next visit Edmonton, and let's face it, everyone eventually visits Edmonton - I'm kidding - or am I?

Thanks in advance.

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Oh I have to admit a bit of envy as an automatic oiler is on my wish list!

I would imagine it would still be prudent to remove the cap stones for cleaning before oiling.  Typically I'll find oil residue on the cap stones even after they have been run through the watch cleaner so I usually use a bit of pegwood and rodico under the microscope as well.  Most of the watches I work on are pretty darn old and not well maintained o maybe this is just an issue with ancient oil residue.

Like you, I struggle with keeping the oil in place when reassembling.  It's getting better with practice.  It would certainly be easier to oil the stones after they are replaced if the auto-oiler allows for it though.

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I purchased one a while ago & it is a really useful tool. Some lower grade watches I find it difficult to remove the cap jewels so this tool is really useful. Just make sure everything is clean (check with a strong loupe)  I still remove the cap jewels on most watches but on the the lower cap jewel I lubricate with the pen once I  have re-assembled. The top cap jewel still needs to be lubed with a conventional oiler.

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Oiling in assembled state is useful for bearings without anti shock system. Cleaned disassembled of course, but assembled without oil and without smearing.

Incabloc and similar, I will oil according this instruction: "Place the drop of oil on the flat side of the endstone and cover it with the bushing. The two surfaces will adhere through capillary action and can be inserted together in the block".

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I also splurged on a 1A, and agree with the sentiment about the %^&*) instructions that came with it. It took me one day to break the needle. Oh well. At least replacements are available, but it was very discouraging.

I decided that I should have inspected the thing with a loupe before I tried to use it, I didn't see the oh so very fine part of the tip that got bent and then broken when I tried to straighten it.

The diagrams in the ^&*( instructions are useless.

Live and Learn!

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I bought it to oil the very tiny Seiko Diafix cap jewels. I've found them almost impossible to oil and then replace without getting the oil everywhere but on the jewel. Unlike the diashock on the balance, the chatons for the diafix do not come out. The oiler lets you get the oil in after assembly.

Edited by dadistic
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  • 3 weeks later...

Auto oilers are very good if used correctly, ALWAYS remove cap and hole jewel assembly if you can, only way to clean them fully which is critical to get good amplitude once your service is complete, once cleaned, fit jewels together and oil thru hole jewel ( you can control how much oil is dispensed by how far back you draw the needle and speed of draw, quickly needle holds less, slowly it holds more ) takes a little practice, then fit back into the movement securing the incabloc shock spring.

You can use the oiler to lubricate pivots and oil train wheel jewels, again practice is the key to control amount and location, remember it is very important to keep the top of the jewels spotlessly clean as any oil on there will draw all the oil in the sink up and away from where it should be.

Practice is the key, remember to work clean.

Good luck!

 

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Thanks for the tips, I've got the replacement needle so I'll give it another go soon. I also appreciate the comment about cleanliness, I just drove myself half crazy because I was using One-Dip that had been contaminated by a plastic jar cap. Demagnetize the balance, clean the hairspring, but darn it, is the hairspring is deformed! Tease with pin and #5 tweezer, the thing is actually sticking together. Repeat demag and clean with same result. Hmmmm. Notice that One-Dip has red tint, is supposed to be clear. The top of the jar is red, doesn't look eaten away, but still - 

New One-Dip in a different jar, and all is good. 

One good thing is that because I thought the hairspring was deformed, I did a bunch of practicing on old hairsprings, trying to get them in the best shape I could. Need more practice, but I'm getting there.

 

 

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