Case back engraving/etching

[Tunokies]

I'm modifying another Seiko and have obtained a replacement caseback from Dagaz to show off an improved replacement movement. 

I would like to have lettering engraved/etched in a curve like on the original caseback (as shown) but to reflect the changes I have made.

Don't laugh, but I approached Timpsons, who use a Rotary diamond engraving set-up. To be fair, he said he could do it on a curve but it wouln't be anywhere near as precise as the outgoing caseback. I also approached a fine jeweller who makes jewellery and can do hand engraving, but his costs were too high in comparison to the watch.

I have a local engineering company who have experience of laser etching small cylindrical metal objects and he said he will look to see if it's possible for him to configure it to achieve a radiused set of lettering. 

I know this is not strictly 'Watch repairs' but any other ideas gretly appreciated. N.b. this is just a £200 Seiko so cost is an issue and if it seems too difficult or costly I'll just leave it blank.

Thanks, Jason

[jdm]

To be honest I think that replacing a proper driver caseback with a see-through to show the rotor screw of (I suppose) a 4R36 is plenty already... I'd leave it sterile at least.

Edited August 8, 2016 by jdm

[Tunokies]

It's a 6R15 in this one, but yes I might leave it sterile. Just looking at the options.

[jdm]

Have you used a Philippines or Seiko stem/crown?

[JohnR725]

If you really want nice engraving on your back find somebody who does laser engraving. I've seen the results of laser engraving on the back of watch cases it's turned out very very nice. Produces very sharp detailed lettering unfortunately it's very expensive. The machine I'm thinking about cost roughly $100,000 and the starting price for anything basic is a little over $100. Unfortunately from your description is not in the budget. Otherwise diamond tipped engraving but it's not going to look as nice.

 

[anilv]

It would be easier to source a replacement caseback and machine it out to take a crystal! Keep your original to preserve the serial number etc.

 

Anil

[Tunokies]

7 hours ago, jdm said:

Have you used a Philippines or Seiko stem/crown?

A seiko Sarb059 from Rob at Monsterwatches

[Tunokies]

14 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

If you really want nice engraving on your back find somebody who does laser engraving. I've seen the results of laser engraving on the back of watch cases it's turned out very very nice. Produces very sharp detailed lettering unfortunately it's very expensive. The machine I'm thinking about cost roughly $100,000 and the starting price for anything basic is a little over $100. Unfortunately from your description is not in the budget. Otherwise diamond tipped engraving but it's not going to look as nice.

 

Thanks John.  Yes, I think it's this route or leave it sterile. I'm going to see what my friendly engineering guy can come up with. I just chuck him a few beers worth and he uses his works equipment in his own time.

[jdm]

It would be easier to source a replacement caseback and machine it out to take a crystal! Keep your original to preserve the serial number etc.

 

Anil

OP has got one, in picture.

[rogart63]

13 hours ago, Tunokies said:

It's a 6R15 in this one, but yes I might leave it sterile. Just looking at the options.

If you now should engrave/etched it? It should say 6R15-0020  instead? 

But as you have changed some many parts it's not original anymore? 

 

[Tunokies]

31 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

If you now should engrave/etched it? It should say 6R15-0020  instead? 

But as you have changed some many parts it's not original anymore? 

 

Ha. Yes exactly.  I was hoping to get SEIKO 6R15-0020  DIVER'S 200M  and maybe 'sapphire ceramic or something like that.  I'm not concerned about the originality.  Until recently my seiko Skx007 was my go-to watch and perfect for my 6.5" wrist but I wanted something a little more refined.  It seems that Seiko aren't in too much of a hurry to update this line and I think the new turtles are nice but a different line altogether. 

 

[rogart63]

2 hours ago, Tunokies said:

Ha. Yes exactly.  I was hoping to get SEIKO 6R15-0020  DIVER'S 200M  and maybe 'sapphire ceramic or something like that.  I'm not concerned about the originality.  Until recently my seiko Skx007 was my go-to watch and perfect for my 6.5" wrist but I wanted something a little more refined.  It seems that Seiko aren't in too much of a hurry to update this line and I think the new turtles are nice but a different line altogether. 

 

I am thinking of doing this little mod myself? Have an incoming NH36 that i am planning to put in a Seiko SKX007 . Was thinking of buying a AM crown? But the SARB059 would that work instead? As it is the problem with the stem that doesn't work from the 7S26 to the 6R15 or NH36. 

6R15 is perhaps a better movement then the NH36. But the NH36 was the only one i could find for sale?  

[Tunokies]

6R15 is more expensive partly because of the higher spec SPRON springs used (better power reserve for the mainspring and less prone to positional and temperature variances with the hairspring) but Rob at Monsterwatches can get them and the Sarb crown.  You do need a different hour wheel and a day disc though.  

4R36/NH36 is an easier install but the fourth wheel/seconds hand pinion is a little taller. This probably isn't a problem for a big case like the 7s26-0020/SKX007 but on a thinner seiko5 might foul the inside of the crystal unless adding a domed crystal.

I went for the Sarb crown (which is fine for both the 6r15 and the 4r36/NH36) because it seemed a more complete answer to the solution as it is already the right length. I have seen that a few people have commented that the aftermarket crown can sometimes bind on the thread and not pop out as it should but I guess this may depend upon how accurately you can cut the stem to the correct length. I haven't tried the aftermarket route so can't comment on a first hand basis.

The pictures show the SARB059 crown and stem combination on the left and the SKX crown and stem combination on the right. Also the Hour wheel from the 6R15 on the left has a higher profile which won't allow the day wheel to sit down flush. The hour wheel on the right is from a 7s26/4r36/nh36. 

[jdm]

8 hours ago, Tunokies said:

Until recently my seiko Skx007 was my go-to watch and perfect for my 6.5" wrist

I have the same wrist size and the 7S26-0020 is a tad too big, even it looks almost OK in pic.

You should try a midsize.

Edited August 9, 2016 by jdm

[jdm]

6 hours ago, rogart63 said:

I am thinking of doing this little mod myself? Have an incoming NH36 that i am planning to put in a Seiko SKX007 . Was thinking of buying a AM crown? But the SARB059 would that work instead?

The Ebay crown/stem is OK, but the Seiko is the sophisticated choice, as it it more expensive.

6 hours ago, rogart63 said:

6R15 is perhaps a better movement then the NH36. But the NH36 was the only one i could find for sale?  

Cousins UK sells the 6R15 and others the NE15, which is the same. For a different take you could get a 4R15 from Cousins, has 50 hrs power reserve but no hacking or hand wind, which is awkward anyway with a screw-down crown..

[Tunokies]

Used to have one of these SKX013. Flipped it a few years ago and since then my largest watch is now my 6105-8110 which, although large, feels really comfortable (probably down to the practically lugless design). I guess I just got used to a bigger size. Can't really go larger than 48/49mm lug-to-lug though.  Tried on a Tudor Black bay at 50mm lug-to-lug recently and on the bracelet it looked too chunky, but on the strap it looked okay - just.

You and I are cursed my friend  :-(

[jdm]

Turtle on  me. Let's be serious, it's unwearable. However I don't even like it 

And with that I've exhausted my quota of wrist shots this year. Not my style either.

 

 

[Tunokies]

Hah ha. I've got a turtle Padi on order. I know it's going to be a bit big but hey, I can always flip it. 

[rogart63]

21 hours ago, Tunokies said:

6R15 is more expensive partly because of the higher spec SPRON springs used (better power reserve for the mainspring and less prone to positional and temperature variances with the hairspring) but Rob at Monsterwatches can get them and the Sarb crown.  You do need a different hour wheel and a day disc though.  

4R36/NH36 is an easier install but the fourth wheel/seconds hand pinion is a little taller. This probably isn't a problem for a big case like the 7s26-0020/SKX007 but on a thinner seiko5 might foul the inside of the crystal unless adding a domed crystal.

I went for the Sarb crown (which is fine for both the 6r15 and the 4r36/NH36) because it seemed a more complete answer to the solution as it is already the right length. I have seen that a few people have commented that the aftermarket crown can sometimes bind on the thread and not pop out as it should but I guess this may depend upon how accurately you can cut the stem to the correct length. I haven't tried the aftermarket route so can't comment on a first hand basis.

The pictures show the SARB059 crown and stem combination on the left and the SKX crown and stem combination on the right. Also the Hour wheel from the 6R15 on the left has a higher profile which won't allow the day wheel to sit down flush. The hour wheel on the right is from a 7s26/4r36/nh36. 

I have built a franken movement from a NH36 with fourth wheel and cannon pinion from a 7S26A . Just to get the high down. Changed the movement ring for a black also.  Now working nice inside a orange monster that had a 6r15 from the start. Cousinsuk didn't have any 6R15 at the time. So that was the only option i could do. 

[Tunokies]

Think I'm nearly there with the engraving/etching.  Should be able to post details soon.

[Tunokies]

Here we go. 

I'll say it first. The "Built, Not Bought" is a bit self indulgent 1980's Escort Mk3 boy racer....but then I was a teenager in the 1980's.

However, I think the radius/curve is just about spot on and Daryl, my engineer buddy did a great job working out the best way to do this.

[clockboy]

Interesting & informative posts Tunokies. A couple of questions did you resolve how to get the backs etched/engraved & are the backs in your last post new or are they polished. If so what was your technic.

[Tunokies]

Interesting & informative posts Tunokies. A couple of questions did you resolve how to get the backs etched/engraved & are the backs in your last post new or are they polished. If so what was your technic.

The one on the right is the outgoing new unused caseback, pictured next to my new one on the left from Dagaz and laser etched by my engineer buddy Daryl.

Sent from my GT-I8190N using Tapatalk

[jdm]

It came out very nice!

[Tunokies]

Here's the finished watch 

I have done an awful lot to this watch. Far beyond the original cost but it was a fun journey. 

And, it still looks like an OEM Seiko (nearly)