Jump to content

Alternative to a staking tool set


TimFitz

Recommended Posts

I know repair tools are expensive & for me money is critical. So I would like to know if there is an alternative to those huge Staking tool sets I see for sale? I feel this is holding me back in my goal to learn as much as I can about watch making. Replacing a balance or jewels is an essential part of the trade. So what are the options? 

Your opinions would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, instead of buying a set, you might try and find some individual pieces that are not that expensive to start. First, an anvil which can be as simple as a metal block with some holes in it. Better is an anvil that supports the punch and keeps it square to the work, I've seen serviceable ones sell on the bay for not much money.

Unfortunately,  the punches are very specialized, and I can't think of an alternative off the top of my head. They are, however, also available individually or in groups both new and used, and can be inexpensive if you are willing to clean them up yourself. 

I was patient, and finally found a serviceable set used that I purchased for a bit more than $50, you can probably do better than that if you take your time.

My suggestion would be to download and study  material that @tomcolson has so kindly made available here -

http://kanddinverto.weebly.com/

and then hone in on the items you need to do the jobs that you have at hand. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

this would be better if the price stays low I can only see the international shipping postage on it but it may be cheaper in America.  it has a revolving anvil with different hole sizes. You can also pick up punches cheap of the bay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-K-D-Watchmakers-Staking-Set-/282113586763?hash=item41af47b64b:g:fHAAAOSweXhXl1M1

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was also about to point out you can get vintage staking sets staggeringly cheaply, I got a bergeon star set, complete, with extra punches, in fine, precise working order for under £100, though I doubt I could get that good a deal again. 

However, yes you can do a lot without the actual anvil and just get a staking block and stakes cheaply and easily. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ebay  ug !    ebay tools and delivery errors are even worse.    there is a need for a smaller, cheaper staking set.    a lot of those punches and anvils  can be made on a lathe.  use drill rod and then  harden it.   vinn

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My situation is like yours. For a hobby i cant afford a complete set, although i am always searching for a cheap acceptable one. Currently for my 1-2 watches under repair i make my own stakes and tools. For me this process is just like as exciting as tinkering with watches.

Edited by szbalogh
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I picked this up from ebay for a restoration project and I wanted one anyway, so the resto so far is going well.  All the holes in the box have a punch of some type, will upload images when it's finished.  It cost £33.00 or $43.00.

last 3 images are: rusted in box, after soaking in white vinegar, and soaking in 3 in 1 oil.

 

IMG_0590.JPG

IMG_0593.JPG

IMG_0592.jpg

IMG_0595.JPG

IMG_0596.JPG

IMG_0597.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ebay is going to be your best bet. You can also try Uncle Larry's Watch shop. I bought my K&D 600 series for about a 100 bucks and had fun restoring it. Again, Uncle Larry's has a good selection of individual punches. One thing to watch on ebay is the sets that people are selling that are full of doubles or damaged bits left over from sets they buy to complete the set they already have.   

A great way to clean up the stakes is to chuck them up in a cordless drill and use steel wool and then go to 1500 wet dry paper and finally use a quality metal polishing paste. Mine came out looking spectacular, much better than they ever did coming from K&D. The process is gentle enough that I did not change the diameter of the stakes. Use the appropriate caution around the business end of the stakes. You don't want to alter or round  off the ends at all.

Like yourself, I have to buy used and then spend the time to restore...some times I have just as much fun doing the restoration of the tools as I do using them...:)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a veteran of a number of eBay staking set purchases, I concur with those above that it's a good way to get started. Complete sets in great condition go for top dollar but the prices for less complete sets requiring a little TLC are much more reasonable.

I started out using only abrasives to clean up the stakes as described here. Currently (today in fact!) I start with an overnight soak in EvapoRust to remove most of the rust and convert what's left to black iron oxide. Then I use fine 3M radial bristle disks to polish up the working and marked ends. I take great care with the working ends to insure that I do not round over corners, etc. Usually the highly polished working ends are the least rusted parts of the stakes.

I'm not a fan of vinegar for rust removal since it will remove clean metal along with the rust. EvapoRust or electrolytic derusting will not. An important note about EvapoRust: be sure to completely immerse the objects being treated. Any object breaking the surface will be etched along the waterline (deeply if you leave it long enough). One of my staking sets is very sad that I know this.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...