Jump to content

- Look mommy I made a mainspring flower.


Recommended Posts

"10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4... take a deep breath and exhale." Ok, I've calmed down, stopped swearing and I promise not to punch and walls.

Mainspring, my mortal enemy why do you keep taunting me?!

I feel fairly confident when it comes to disassembling and assembling any type of watch (not including chronos yet). But when I sit staring at that mainspring barrel a voice always whispers in my ear "- Let it be. It's probably fine. No need to disturb what need not be awaken." But I always ignore that voice, I'm a capable man after all, right? Oh the lies, the lies I keep telling myself..

I have acquired a set of three K&d mainspring winders type 123. They usually do the trick when it has come to old Hamilton movements such as the 980, 770 etc. The t-end mainsprings found in these movements are easy enough to reinstall with said winder (most of the times anyway). Automatics however, seems to be a different beast entirely. I have in the last week completely destroyed two mainsprings while trying to restore a Seiko Sealion. I mean, what's the problem? What is so different with the automatic mainsprings? You hook it up, roll it in, and pop it out in to the barrel. But no no, these mainsprings does not want to play ball. They twist and turn and eventually explode. Is anybody else using similar winders with automatic mainsprings? If so, how do you get it to work? What am I missing? Or should I just leave the mainsprings be? Only open Pandora's box when I know it's broken? What do you suggest?

Here's the mainspring flower I picked this morning.

IMG_20160726_132618-01_zpspl71ca8a.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, B3stia said:

Here's the mainspring flower I picked this morning.

I can't help on the auto mainspring issue, :unsure: pretty sure someone here will help. Just wanted to say your humor is spot on!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fought for a good 30 min trying to wind it in by hand. But I couldn't get the last 5 cm in. When I unwound it I also noticed the mainspring had taken quite a beating from my on hands approach. So not sure I want to give that another go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have that style of winder + a Bergeon style the same as Mark uses. I found that with both of these winders the issue is releasing the arbour once wound. If the spring is a bit tight around the winding arbour then if not careful it will pop the spring out with the flower.

I found what really helps is to give the winding arbour a thin coating of either barrel grease or Vaseline. Then this really helps when removing.  Also slowly does it I have a very thin pair of tweezers that I use to keep poking the centre of the spring back as it tries to pop out when releasing.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have that style of winder + a Bergeon style the same as Mark uses. I found that with both of these winders the issue is releasing the arbour once wound. If the spring is a bit tight around the winding arbour then if not careful it will pop the spring out with the flower.

I found what really helps is to give the winding arbour a thin coating of either barrel grease or Vaseline. Then this really helps when removing.  Also slowly does it I have a very thin pair of tweezers that I use to keep poking the centre of the spring back as it tries to pop out when releasing.

There's a always that nervous moment when the mainspring is fully in the winder and you have to make sure it doesn't pop out when removing the arbour. But the problems start even before that. I am experiencing the mainspring twisting and turning while winding it. It doesn't wind up in a perfect circle like the others, it moves around between the walls of the arbour and the winder.

Could it be that the mainspring is not high enough for the winder? That the mainspring doesn't fit tight enough between the arbour and the inside of winder (not talking diameter).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to pull every spring out of its barrel, clean then refit by hand, as I could never afford the tools at the time, and didnt ever have any issue, even with auto-springs--Except one time-

A Smiths Enfield Clock-spring got away from me during installation and slashed my finger open quite badly down to the bone...

Havent done one for years, as I tend to collect Accutrons now so no Dangerous Mainsprings!...

Edited by Alastair
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have not encountered that issue. I find as you wind the spring you have to un-twist sometimes especially as it gets towards the end of it,s length.
Winding by hand I always found difficult & if wearing finger cots the finger cot would try and get in on the act so I just purchased the winder.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm really surprised how bad my experience with these last two mainsprings has been. I am ordering a new one and will just pop it in the barrel.

The next watch on my to do list is a Seiko cal 6139. I have already bought a new mainspring just in case. If I can't re-wind the old one I must clearly be doing something wrong.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, B3stia said:

What is so different with the automatic mainsprings? You hook it up, roll it in, and pop it out in to the barrel. But no no, these mainsprings does not want to play ball. They twist and turn and eventually explode. Is anybody else using similar winders with automatic mainsprings?

I don't know about winders but if you place the spring into the barrel, and go around holding the coils in place with the flat of the tweezers, possibly using finger coats in the right hand, it will go in without much effort.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know about winders but if you place the spring into the barrel, and go around holding the coils in place with the flat of the tweezers, possibly using finger coats in the right hand, it will go in without much effort.

I tried winding it in by hand (without having watched any videos on it beforehand I might add). I couldn't do it today. I might give it another go in the future. I would much rather spare my fingers and use the winders though.

What type of winders are you guys using?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, B3stia said:

I tried winding it in by hand (without having watched any videos on it beforehand I might add). I couldn't do it today. I might give it another go in the future. I would much rather spare my fingers and use the winders though.

Trust me the spring won't jump. You only have to be careful placing the first coil, all the rest is straightforward. Seiko barrels have their own sizes and you many not find a winder that fits perfectly.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Trust me the spring won't jump. You only have to be careful placing the first coil, all the rest is straightforward. Seiko barrels have their own sizes and you many not find a winder that fits perfectly.

I didn't face any problems with the spring jumping, it just got too hard winding it around. I'm probably missing something with the technique. I'll see if I can find a video on how to do it.

The good thing about the k&d winders is that you can adjust the diameter. So the non-standard sizes is not an issue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, B3stia said:

Here it is.

That's what I was telling you, first coil firmly in then others will follow. But let the flat of the tweezers do the holding work with the barrel on the mat, no need to hold iit hand.

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I was telling you, first coil firmly in then others will follow. But let the flat of the tweezers do the holding work with the barrel on the mat, no need to hold iit hand.

I'll give it a go next time if the new mainspring doesn't pop right in. Thanks for the tips.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 27 July 2016 at 1:55 PM, B3stia said:

Here it is.

 

I'm fairly new to horological adventures but a recently retired 72 year old with all the hassles of a shaky hand I didn't know I had and old age dim eye sight. In six months of learning I have removed and replaced two main springs in exactly this method. Whilst the first took a lot of patience to get started, it was thicker than the one demonstrated here, but it actually gets easier towards the end.

thanks a lot for those discussions and videos. I owe you a lot. Nearly gave up a few times.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...