Jump to content

Assistance with replacement movements and batterie


FL

Recommended Posts

I need assistance, please!icon_question_an.gif

I have a Pierre Cardin dress watch without a battery/cell and has no numerical identification anywhere in, or on the case. The only ID type info is as follows: it says "Jour" on the inside of the case-back. On the movement is says "Le Jour" with no other wording or numbering. The questions are: What battery/cell would this movement use? and, What movement might this be? Replacement movement? I have tried to research this to no avail.

Then, can anyone suggest a replacement movement for a Timex Electric M cell; once again no case numbers. However, the inside of the case-back has "QTO" factory marking stamp. Additionally, on the movement itself it has a "04" at approximately the 7 position and a "126" at approximately the 2 position.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, FL said:

I need assistance, please!icon_question_an.gif

I have a Pierre Cardin dress watch without a battery/cell and has no numerical identification anywhere in, or on the case. The only ID type info is as follows: it says "Jour" on the inside of the case-back. On the movement is says "Le Jour" with no other wording or numbering. The questions are: What battery/cell would this movement use? and, What movement might this be? Replacement movement? I have tried to research this to no avail.

Then, can anyone suggest a replacement movement for a Timex Electric M cell; once again no case numbers. However, the inside of the case-back has "QTO" factory marking stamp. Additionally, on the movement itself it has a "04" at approximately the 7 position and a "126" at approximately the 2 position.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Pierre Cardin CB (1).JPGPierre Cardin.JPGTimex Electric CB .JPGTimex Electric CB External.JPGTimex Electric Movemt.JPG
Thanks

I have some photos: The first set are of the Pierre Cardin. The second set are for the Timex Electric. Hope this aids the assistance. One more thing, I have figured out how to remove the stem on the Timex. There is no depression point or screw??? I am afraid to damage the stem by forcing it out. Thanks!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, ro63rto said:

doesnt it say 390 only on the inside of the Timex caseback?

Hello,

Thank you for responding...I only wished it was.  :(

Unfortunately, that's the cell number someone wrote in it. But it's not a case or caliber number.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, jdm said:

Being these unbranded movements I would not spend time trying to identify them but just fit the battery that best fits by size. For a quick test you can use any.

Thank you for responding.

I have tried several batteries i.e.: 377, 364, and it had an AG-4 in it. But, the problem is it does not work. The movement wheels do not move (they are not stuck, since they move freely when I manually advance them), and it has failed the pulse test no matter what cell I put in. :pulling-hair-out:

I really don't want to remove the crystal (only method to remove the movement), since it is a vintage piece, and I am afraid to break the domed crystal.

I have heard that these "Le Jour" or Yuma movements are ETAs but not sure which.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, FL said:

Thank you for responding.

I have tried several batteries i.e.: 377, 364, and it had an AG-4 in it. But, the problem is it does not work. The movement wheels do not move (they are not stuck, since they move freely when I manually advance them), and it has failed the pulse test no matter what cell I put in. 

When you set time you do not use the actual wheel train (that is very reduced on a quartz mov.t). It is still possible that something there is stuck, however it's most likely that coil or circuit have failed.

4 minutes ago, FL said:

I really don't want to remove the crystal (only method to remove the movement), since it is a vintage piece, and I am afraid to break the domed crystal.

I have heard that these "Le Jour" or Yuma movements are ETAs but not sure which.

I'm not expert with all the ETA quartz but this look quite old, maybe you can fit another movement with just the same size, hands and day/date.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

Thank you for responding...I only wished it was.  [emoji20]

Unfortunately, that's the cell number someone wrote in it. But it's not a case or caliber number.

Sorry, misread your post. That's what happens when I scan while watching TV [emoji20]

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...