Today I show off what is probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence.
Let's see what this brand spankin' new Invicta does on the timegrapher:
Oof. Ya hate ta see it. I know these numbers aren't anything to cry over for an 80 dollar automatic, but considering how these days microbrands stick this movement in watches costing hundreds more, and Seiko themselves with the equivalent 4R in watches costing even more, it's just not great. The rate itself to me is a trivial matter as nudging on the regulator is a trivial task. But what speaks to the quality of a movement in my eyes is the consistency of that rate in different positions. With 12 seconds per day difference across positions, middling amplitude, and fluctuating rate while static, albeit slight, is all just a bit "meh" to me.
Let's crack it open and see what we can do.
Hairspring seems to be pulling towards stud.
Hairspring removed from balance and mounted on cock and we can see the full extent of the malformity. That collet is a good ways off from the jewel.
Few hours of sweat later:
Much better! Regulator now runs the full length of the terminal curve without disturbance and collet is centered on jewel.
Let's check out what else I saw:
Some places are absolutely flooded.
While others just barely got any. A good thing I intervened. This thing needed to be redone top to bottom.
Stripped apart, ready to get rid of the crappy factory lube job, and get a real, proper lube job.
All put together, lubed, and few rounds of dynamic poising later:
Massive boost in amplitude, runs on rails and a measly 1 second difference across all positions. Wasn't lying when I said "probably the most accurate Seiko NH35 in existence." See for yourself.
Isn't it at the moment a bit of a waste that this souped up NH35 is being trapped inside its Invicta skin? What do you think?
Hi, so I recently got a seiko 5 snk809 and it was working fine, I then decided to regulate it as it was losing about 1 minute a day. After I regulated it it was working fine then stopped so I shook it to wind it up and then it started working. After 5 minutes it stopped again so I wound it up and it would work but then stop after a couple of minutes. I checked to see if the watch was being winded and it was, so the watch had power but just wouldn't move, I dont know why this is, the watch has power but will only run for a minute or two when I shake it, this hasn't happened before to this watch, so if anyone could help that would be great.
I have a seiko 7548-700f that I bought at a flea market for 15 dollars. Very beat up. Heavy scratches on the back near the lugs. Looks like the previous owner didn't know how to take a case back off properly. Last year during a battery change the screwdriver slipped and i hit the coil block. I managed to replace it without trouble. Starting a couple of months ago it started losing time. LOTS of time. I would take it off overnight and in the morning it would be 5 hours behind the correct time. Happens no matter what position the watch is in. I suspect that this is because the hole for the center wheel is not circular anymore. I know this means I need a service but I can not afford one. I am in highschool with no job. I have posted similar threads to this on several different sites, but no one is helpful. They tell me to get a job or to just pay to service it. What should I do? Should I learn to service it myself or is it even worth it?
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Yes that's the complete balance. You should be able to find an old movement and the mainspring on ebay. I'll have a look for you, just give me a little time. Here you go. Here is a place for all parts http://www.obsoletewatchandclockparts.com/smithsQL100.htm Give these a ring 01959 543 660 Walsh clock parts and tell them what you want. I think this is the mainspring you want, to be on the safe side mention the number its SKU CM3201 https://www.hswalsh.com/categories/loop-end-mainsprings