ETA 2893-1 Service Walkthrough - Part 1 - Disassembly (repost)

[sstakoff]

Service Walk Through – ETA 2893-1 / Hamilton Khaki: Part 1 - Disassembly

This is part 1 of my service of a Hamilton Khaki – dual time zone automatic based on the ETA 2893-1 movement. I purchased the watch on eBay and it runs for a short time then stops. Looks like it could use a good cleaning.

Note that the part numbers in the images and text are consistent with those found in the ETA technical document for this movement. Disassembly of this movement is quite straightforward. The only "special" tool you need would be an oscillating weight bolt tool - and you only need this if you intend to remove the ball bearing assembly from the oscillating weight, which really isn't required. In this tear down I do use the tool - only because I recently acquired it and wanted to see how it worked

 

Off we go....

 

The dial shows evidence of some sloppy workmanship in the watch's past – several scratches from prior hand removal.

 

 

Here you see the back of the 2893-1 with its automatic rotor - nicely signed Hamilton. The arrows indicate the location of the dial screws which secure the dial to the movement. These screws have a flat. Turn them just enough so the flat is facing the dial foot and the dial pops right off. Secure the screws so they don’t pop off during cleaning.

Preparing to remove the hands – with a safety sheet in place.

 

 

 

After removing the dial, remove the Dial Support Ring (47). This ring keeps the dial the proper distance from the second timezone disc. Without it, the disc will rub against the dial.

 

 

 

Remove the second timezone disc, or what ETA calls the Universal Hour Indicator (46) from the center. This is a bit tricky as there’s no obvious place to grip it. I used two very small screwdrivers on each side to lift the indicator straight up. Be careful not to scratch it!

 

 

With the disc removed, we can now remove the Dial Washer / Friction Spring (45), Corrector Setting Wheel (44) and Hour Indicator Driving Wheel (43).

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Hour Wheel (42) can now be lifted off, followed by the Additional Indicator Maintaining Plate (41).

 

 

Next components to remove are the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate (40) and the Minute Train Bridge (35).

 

 

 

We move on to remove the Intermediate Date Wheel (39). The Date Jumper (38) has also been exposed when we removed the maintaining plate, so we remove it. Finally, we remove the Date Indicator (37) and the Date Indicator Driving Wheel (36).

 

 

 

Now on to some of the motion and keyless work. We remove the Minute Wheel (34),  Cannon Pinion with Driving Wheel (33),  Double Corrector (32), Date Corrector Intermediate Setting Wheel (31) and Setting Wheel (30).

 

 

 

This side is almost complete. We leave the setting components in place. Removing them now would be problematic as we have yet to release tension from the mainspring.

 

Flip the movement over and remove the automatic work. After removing the 3 blue screws (seen in the previous 2 pics) we lift the entire unit up gently by the Oscillating Weight (28).

 

 

With the automatic work out of the way – I notice that the Stop Lever (Hack) is missing! Will try and source one.

 

 

 

Back to the automatic work. Removing these 3 small screws will allow the oscillating weight to come off the Automatic Framework (21).

 

 

 

This is a special tool designed to release the Oscillating Weight Bolt

 

I remove the Oscillating Weight Bolt (28-3) and free the Ball Bearing (28-2) from the Oscillating Weight (28-1). There was no compelling reason to disassemble this portion of the movement, but the tool worked as expected!

 

 

 

With the Oscillating Weight out of the way, remove the Auxiliary Reverser (27).

 

 

 

Flip the unit over once again and remove the screw and Automatic Device Lower Bridge (26).

 

 

 

Remove the Reverser (25), Reverser Wheel (24), Reduction Wheel (23) and Intermediate Reduction Wheel (22).

 

 

A view of the underside of these components – handy when trying to remember which way to reassemble.

 

 

 

Remove the single screw and gently lift off the Balance Assembly (20) with the Balance Complete (19).

 

 

 

Carefully let the power down by releasing the Click (12-6) and slowly letting the crown wind down.

 

 

 

 Remove the Pallet Bridge (18) and Pallets (17).

 

 

 

Remove the Train Wheel Bridge (16). It is secured with a hefty screw!

 

 

 

Remove the Fourth Wheel (15), Third Wheel (14) and Escape Wheel (13).

 

 

 

Remove the 3 screws and the Barrel Bridge (12)

 

 

 

Flip the bridge over and lift off the Ratchet Wheel Driving Wheel (12-2)

 

 

Remove the screw and the Click Plate (12-7), followed by the Click (12-6), Intermediate Ratchet Wheel (12-5), Intermediate Crown Wheel (12-4) and Crown Wheel (12-3). Note that the Intermediate Crown Wheel is under the Click Plate. When I removed the plate, the wheel was stuck to it due to some old oil.

 

 

Here you can see the Intermediate Crown Wheel as it was stuck.

 

 

 

This shows the proper placement of the wheels.

 

 

 

Remove the Ratchet Wheel (11), the Mainspring Barrel (10) and Intermediate Wheel (9). Note the scrap of tissue that found its way onto the movement. I was so focused on taking pics that I didn’t notice.

 

 

 

Pop the lid off the Barrel

 

 Remove the mainspring arbor

 

And finally, remove the mainspring, leaving the empty barrel

 

 

 

The movement side is now completely bare. Let’s flip it over and finish off the keyless work.

 

Unscrew and remove the Setting Lever Jumper (8), Yoke (7) and the Setting Lever (6)

 

 

 

Remove the Date Corrector Operating Lever (5), Winding Stem (4), Winding Pinion (3) and the Sliding Pinion (2)

 

 

All stripped down

 

Ready for the Ultrasonic!!!

 

 

 

 

Hope you enjoyed this. In case you are interested, photo equipment used was:

 

Camera: Nikon D5300 DSLR

Lens: Nikon   AF-S VR Micro-NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED,

Shutter Release: Nikon ML-L3 Remote Shutter Release (wireless)

Lighting: Polaroid Macro LED Ring Flash

Tripod: Vanguard Alta Pro 263AB 100

 

 

[matabog]

Very nice!!!

 

Thank you!

Bogdan

[Cad101]

Nice walkthrough clear photos and well described looking forward to part 2.

Mick

[oldhippy]

Very good. Now to put it back.

[sstakoff]

7 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Very good. Now to put it back.

I have to put it back together???? Oh no!!!

I'm about half way done - just a bit short on time. But I'll get there....

[t4d]

Beautiful photos! Thanks for posting 

[Geo]

Excellent walkthrough with great illustrations! 

[arkobugg]

On 12.7.2016 at 2:02 PM, sstakoff said:

Service Walk Through – ETA 2893-1 / Hamilton Khaki: Part 1 - Disassembly

 

This is part 1 of my service of a Hamilton Khaki – dual time zone automatic based on the ETA 2893-1 movement. I purchased the watch on eBay and it runs for a short time then stops. Looks like it could use a good cleaning.

 

 

 

Note that the part numbers in the images and text are consistent with those found in the ETA technical document for this movement. Disassembly of this movement is quite straightforward. The only "special" tool you need would be an oscillating weight bolt tool - and you only need this if you intend to remove the ball bearing assembly from the oscillating weight, which really isn't required. In this tear down I do use the tool - only because I recently acquired it and wanted to see how it worked

 

 

 

Off we go....

 

 

 

 

The dial shows evidence of some sloppy workmanship in the watch's past – several scratches from prior hand removal.

 

 

 

 

 

Here you see the back of the 2893-1 with its automatic rotor - nicely signed Hamilton. The arrows indicate the location of the dial screws which secure the dial to the movement. These screws have a flat. Turn them just enough so the flat is facing the dial foot and the dial pops right off. Secure the screws so they don’t pop off during cleaning.

 

 

 

Preparing to remove the hands – with a safety sheet in place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After removing the dial, remove the Dial Support Ring (47). This ring keeps the dial the proper distance from the second timezone disc. Without it, the disc will rub against the dial.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the second timezone disc, or what ETA calls the Universal Hour Indicator (46) from the center. This is a bit tricky as there’s no obvious place to grip it. I used two very small screwdrivers on each side to lift the indicator straight up. Be careful not to scratch it!

 

 

 

 

With the disc removed, we can now remove the Dial Washer / Friction Spring (45), Corrector Setting Wheel (44) and Hour Indicator Driving Wheel (43).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Hour Wheel (42) can now be lifted off, followed by the Additional Indicator Maintaining Plate (41).

 

 

 

 

 

Next components to remove are the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate (40) and the Minute Train Bridge (35).

 

 

 

 

 

 

We move on to remove the Intermediate Date Wheel (39). The Date Jumper (38) has also been exposed when we removed the maintaining plate, so we remove it. Finally, we remove the Date Indicator (37) and the Date Indicator Driving Wheel (36).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now on to some of the motion and keyless work. We remove the Minute Wheel (34),  Cannon Pinion with Driving Wheel (33),  Double Corrector (32), Date Corrector Intermediate Setting Wheel (31) and Setting Wheel (30).

 

 

 

 

 

 

This side is almost complete. We leave the setting components in place. Removing them now would be problematic as we have yet to release tension from the mainspring.

 

 

 

Flip the movement over and remove the automatic work. After removing the 3 blue screws (seen in the previous 2 pics) we lift the entire unit up gently by the Oscillating Weight (28).

 

 

 

 

 

With the automatic work out of the way – I notice that the Stop Lever (Hack) is missing! Will try and source one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back to the automatic work. Removing these 3 small screws will allow the oscillating weight to come off the Automatic Framework (21).

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is a special tool designed to release the Oscillating Weight Bolt

 

 

 

I remove the Oscillating Weight Bolt (28-3) and free the Ball Bearing (28-2) from the Oscillating Weight (28-1). There was no compelling reason to disassemble this portion of the movement, but the tool worked as expected!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the Oscillating Weight out of the way, remove the Auxiliary Reverser (27).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip the unit over once again and remove the screw and Automatic Device Lower Bridge (26).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the Reverser (25), Reverser Wheel (24), Reduction Wheel (23) and Intermediate Reduction Wheel (22).

 

 

 

 

 

A view of the underside of these components – handy when trying to remember which way to reassemble.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the single screw and gently lift off the Balance Assembly (20) with the Balance Complete (19).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Carefully let the power down by releasing the Click (12-6) and slowly letting the crown wind down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Remove the Pallet Bridge (18) and Pallets (17).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the Train Wheel Bridge (16). It is secured with a hefty screw!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the Fourth Wheel (15), Third Wheel (14) and Escape Wheel (13).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the 3 screws and the Barrel Bridge (12)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flip the bridge over and lift off the Ratchet Wheel Driving Wheel (12-2)

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the screw and the Click Plate (12-7), followed by the Click (12-6), Intermediate Ratchet Wheel (12-5), Intermediate Crown Wheel (12-4) and Crown Wheel (12-3). Note that the Intermediate Crown Wheel is under the Click Plate. When I removed the plate, the wheel was stuck to it due to some old oil.

 

 

 

 

 

Here you can see the Intermediate Crown Wheel as it was stuck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This shows the proper placement of the wheels.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the Ratchet Wheel (11), the Mainspring Barrel (10) and Intermediate Wheel (9). Note the scrap of tissue that found its way onto the movement. I was so focused on taking pics that I didn’t notice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pop the lid off the Barrel

 

 Remove the mainspring arbor

 

And finally, remove the mainspring, leaving the empty barrel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The movement side is now completely bare. Let’s flip it over and finish off the keyless work.

 

 

 

Unscrew and remove the Setting Lever Jumper (8), Yoke (7) and the Setting Lever (6)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remove the Date Corrector Operating Lever (5), Winding Stem (4), Winding Pinion (3) and the Sliding Pinion (2)

 

 

 

 

 

All stripped down

 

 

 

 

 

Ready for the Ultrasonic!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope you enjoyed this. In case you are interested, photo equipment used was:

 

 

 

Camera: Nikon D5300 DSLR

 

Lens: Nikon   AF-S VR Micro-NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED,

 

Shutter Release: Nikon ML-L3 Remote Shutter Release (wireless)

 

Lighting: Polaroid Macro LED Ring Flash

 

Tripod: Vanguard Alta Pro 263AB 100

 

 

 

 

Very niceley done, very clear photoes...

[arkobugg]

Very niceley done, very clear photoes...

Lots of learning...

[bobm12]

I love this walkthrough, very detailed! Great Job!

[Delroyb]

Excepitionally good write up. I have this exact same watch and was thinking it was time for a spruce up. This will definitely be handy!

[jtorress]

This helped me identify a part that I needed (reverser) and the fact that you actually put the part number in the high resolution photo, Amazing. Thank you for this.

[Mattaphysics]

Simply outstanding. That's a beastly mainspring and barrel, it's a wonderful piece nonetheless. Very nicely done write up.