Jump to content

Timing Adjustment Problem


Recommended Posts

If the lift angle is not set correctly on the timegrapher the only difference is a very minor inaccuracy in calculating amplitude. Nothing else is affected.

No I couldn't really agree with your statement. The lift angle setting not only affects the reading of amplitude but it also effects the reading of beat error. Though I appreciate that most modern movements lift angle is between 48 and 54. So a fairly accurate measurement can be taken at 52° but it's far more desirable to have the specific information as to the correct lift angle setting when regulating a movement

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, digginstony said:

No I couldn't really agree with your statement. The lift angle setting not only affects the reading of amplitude but it also effects the reading of beat error.

No, lift angle set on the timegrapher does not affect beat error reading at all. One can test that easily by varying the angle and observing. See pictures for the two extreme values of range available on my machine. Only amplitude reading is marginally affected.

 

P7143083.JPG

P7143084.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, lift angle set on the timegrapher does not affect beat error reading at all. One can test that easily by varying the angle and observing. See pictures for the two extreme values of range available on my machine. Only amplitude reading is marginally affected.

 

P7143083.JPG

P7143084.JPG

Looking at your readings I would have to agree with you . There's noticeably no difference.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't even turn it off mate. Mrs jdm does, however [emoji3]

Because I believed i could get a false reading of beat error if the lift angle wasn't set right I spent many hours regulating this Waltham pocket watch. I've just put it on the timegrapher. See pics. It's not perfect but you've just made my life a lot easier in the future. Many thanks482ea9fcab0efe841d8b7474045bfc50.jpgd4d734eff6fcfed9695424ce353cfe02.jpg

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/07/2016 at 10:21 PM, Scouseget said:

Also, I did get it to work for a while quite accurately dial up, but the moment I moved it away from the DU position, it would noticeably slow down or stop; I verified that the hairspring was not catching on anything when this happened. Not sure what that means exactly but I did check the balance jewel holes and noticed the slop that I mentioned above, hence the reason I bought a third Waltham to allow me to change out the jewels. 

 

Assuming the staff is not broken and that the hairspring don't touch anything, check that you don't have a cracked jewel. Don't see exactly what you mean by a "fair amount of slop" but balance jewels are convex type jewels (with olive hole), see here

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/jewels-seitz

But, this not explains why your regulator has no effect.

If you swap the hairspring there is a fair amount of chance that it's not matching the balance and becomes impossible to regulate. In this case you need to adjust the balance weight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hi matey

I think you need to get yourself a timeographer for a start I believe your watch is an 1899 model the same as my too.

WP_20160617_06_09_20_Pro.jpg

this was the reading before service

 

 

and this is after service with a new mainspring

 

 

 

I recently went on a two week cruise and had the watch on all the time, and it kept absolutely perfect time I think this is the sort of readings you need to be looking for but you do need a timeographer, i have just stripped another last night and this is what it looked like before.

i will let you know how i get on, just my two pennies worth I hope this helps.

Kaz

 

 

WP_20160612_22_09_05_Pro.jpg

Edited by BUSAKAZ
wrong pics
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, BUSAKAZ said:

hi matey

I think you need to get yourself a timeographer for a start I believe your watch is an 1899 model the same as my too.

WP_20160617_06_09_20_Pro.jpg

this was the reading before service

 

 

and this is after service with a new mainspring

 

 

 

I recently went on a two week cruise and had the watch on all the time, and it kept absolutely perfect time I think this is the sort of readings you need to be looking for but you do need a timeographer, i have just stripped another last night and this is what it looked like before.

i will let you know how i get on, just my two pennies worth I hope this helps.

Kaz

 

 

WP_20160612_22_09_05_Pro.jpg

sorry the two pics didn't turn out but hopefully here they are.

WP_20160613_16_50_06_Pro.jpgWP_20160613_16_52_16_Pro.jpgWP_20160728_15_45_28_Pro.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for the help guys! VWatchie I already found your thread but I'll check it again. Nice to know about acetone, I still have to get the shellac off since I made a little mess. I adjusted the jewel, put new shellac (the so called soldering technique, pallet tool too hot this time so the shellac "wire" melted in air before getting in contact with jewels or fork) rinsed the pallet fork and put it back dry. Amplitude is now in the 240-250 range that I expected in the first place. I guess there's enough oil in the escape wheel teeth already but I'll check that later. The mainspring was pretty beaten so a new one would probably boost the amplitude even further. Nice to learn new things. Now I have another thing to look for while disassembling. I wonder if the watch left the factory that way. 
    • Would be interesting to see it 🙂
    • These are all American movements (with the exception of the "Rubis"), and are all almost certainly "negative set" which means the stem is part of the case. So it's normal that they are all missing- they are with their cases. You will need male square bench keys to wind/disarm them. Vintagewatchstraps has a great writeup on the different systems. But basically, any American "x" size movement will fit any case for that size, possibly with some adjusting of the stem position. With Swiss movements, there is some interchangeability between calibers, usually within the same maker's range, but not really overall- there are thousands of different stems out there.
    • Hi, I'm very new to watchmaking and this is my first time posting here.  I've bought a lot of 10 vintage pocket watches size 0s from e-bay and just got them today.  Most of the balance wheels sprung quite freely and thus seemed like a worthy endeavor as a first batch for exploration.  I've just realized that none of them have any winding stems. Is there any way I could source appropriate winding stems for the movements? There seems to be assortments of various stems selling in bulk on aliexpress, but would any of them fit?  I've read on other threads that some people lathe their own stems (which is waaaay out of my current skill set, which is pretty much nil). Others say that you 'just have to try a few and see if they fit'. I would much appreciate any advice for this matter. Thanks!
    • Nice work.  In the last year, I have been servicing Accutron 218s.  I have the official Accutron hoder that provides electrical contact to the movement.  It is a pretty clever design.  There is a cut in the ring of the holder (shaped like a "C").  When in relaxed state, the holder is slightly smaller than the watch movement.  You spread the cut slightly and drop the movement in and release.  Very clean.  I have made 3D versions of this setup.  Have not explored using it generally for other movements.
×
×
  • Create New...