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Not sure where screws belong Seiko 7006A


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Well, I have tried to re assemble this Seiko 7006A movement twice, but can't figure out the proper placement of the 12 screws...

In the attached photo, I sorted the screws and grouped them together.  I the the quantity of five is really three of one type, and two of another.....

I reassembled the face side of the watch first. Next, I  worked on the back side.  I put a long screw into an early part and I believe it is now pushing the day wheel out of wack... I must take photos of every part of the disassembly process.

 

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This is an issue for me as well when working on a movement I have no previous experience with.  I've taken the shortcut of replacing screws after removing the part for cleaning, that way when the plates go into the cleaning machine there are few if any lose screws.

This obviously won't help you now so I'll also pitch my "Plan B" to you.  Plate screws are often the same length and there are usually a few of them.  The screws for the bridges typically have no chamfer and are cut to a length that limits them impinging on any moving parts beneath.  Counter sunk screws often go in the keyless works and sometimes are used on the crown wheel, you'll also find these in areas where moving parts need clearance directly above the screw.  Lastly, shouldered screws will be used for any levers which require movement- these are the ones that can become problematic if you have more than a few of them.

Many watches I've worked on have screws that are in the wrong place or have been replaced with "best fits" so you are in good company.  The watches usually work fine despite this.

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The photo that shows the screws are a little far away for my sight, but I'll try to help you. 4 are plate screws one for the balance cock the other three for the main plate. I can't see the others properly so all I can add is the shortest screws would go into the thinnest plates these are normally calendar plates. Make sure you have two identical screws for the pallet bridge. Remembering where screws go is all down to experience. If you have a cleaning machine try putting the screws in with the parts, even if you can only do that with a few it will cut the odds down.      

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Always helpful if you had a tech sheet or even the parts list because you can at least compare your screws the parts list to try to figure out where they may be perhaps go. Looks like the 7006 doesn't have a tech sheet but it's parts list refers you back to the 7005 so I've attached all of them.

Then when disassembling a watch it really helps to keep the parts grouped together. For instance everything on the dial side can be grouped together. The automatic parts and if you're doing anything really complicated grouping the parts is really a nice way to keep your sanity..

Seiko-7005A.pdf

Seiko-Parts-7005A.PDF

Seiko-Parts-7006A.pdf

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16 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

For letter A you should use number 2 and for letter 2B it one of the screws number 5 

Your eye sight is way better then mine. I had a job to see even with my glasses on that's why I could only give advice on the large screws.:D

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3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

The photo that shows the screws are a little far away for my sight, but I'll try to help you. 4 are plate screws one for the balance cock the other three for the main plate. I can't see the others properly so all I can add is the shortest screws would go into the thinnest plates these are normally calendar plates. Make sure you have two identical screws for the pallet bridge. Remembering where screws go is all down to experience. If you have a cleaning machine try putting the screws in with the parts, even if you can only do that with a few it will cut the odds down.      

I cannot tribute here so mutch beacuse I havent done a service on a movment before. But I have thought a lot around having track of all the screws. And my question is: Must all the screws have to be cleaned? Otherwice I would just them in a part cointainer and marked all the slots with what teme are for....

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Rubbish all parts that can be cleaned should be cleaned if it's for a customer. This discussion I have had before. You take the time to clean the plates that have screw holes so it is good practice to clean the screws. What is the point of cleaning the screw holes and screwing un cleaned screws into clean holes. Bits and pieces that you might not see get attached to screws so you should always clean screws. If it's your watch you can do whatever you like. It is also a good way of learning where the screws go.   

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12 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

Rubbish all parts that can be cleaned should be cleaned if it's for a customer. This discussion I have had before. You take the time to clean the plates that have screw holes so it is good practice to clean the screws. What is the point of cleaning the screw holes and screwing un cleaned screws into clean holes. Bits and pieces that you might not see get attached to screws so you should always clean screws. If it's your watch you can do whatever you like. It is also a good way of learning where the screws go.   

Not rubbish, unless you like to call other people opinions like that. All screws are of course examined before installing them, without washing. No good in washing what is clean already and has no friction. 

 

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1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

What do you do when you have a very dirty watch movement and the screws are also dirty and its a chronograph which has many screws which very a lot in size.

Of course I would wash them, if you notice, I wrote "parts that are clean already". Anyway the watches I work with have waterproof cases and the movements always very clean. My approach is to use intelligence not inflexible rules carved in stone.

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2 hours ago, Triacon said:

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.  I will print the pdf files and use them in my next attempt. 

Can I make a further suggestion.  

Assemble all the bridges, plates, springs etc. without fitting any of the wheels or balance.  That way you will be able to fit screws without the fear of jamming the movement or breaking a pivot.  Check the lengths to ensure long screws are not fitted into shallow or thin plates causing them to protrude too far through.

Once you have ascertained where all the screws are meant to go, carefully disassemble keeping the correct crews with the correct plates and bridges.

Now assemble the movement properly.

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I like the trial assembly idea.  Will do it next time I am at the bench.  Just seems like I have a mixed up bunch of screws.... 12 screws plus the obvious special shaped screws....  Not sure if the group of 5 are all the same or if there are 3 of one size and 2 of another.... Will look at them with microscope next!

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there is a GOOD BOOK  by d. le clare that  explains this very subject. (on the subject "how to skin a cat")  i have a separate set of screw  drivers are magnatized !  they work good for  moving and starting screws "you won;t find that in a book"  BUT Le Clare tell you how to DE  and magnatize.   vinn

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I've attached an image of after I clean a watch I like to arrange the screws the way they are in the image. Group the screws by physical characteristic and their size it's easier to see their size when the head is down rather than in a small pile. Often times screws will look similar but only when their side-by-side can you see that they're not the same size.

screws reassembly.JPG

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9 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Your eye sight is way better then mine. I had a job to see even with my glasses on that's why I could only give advice on the large screws.:D

Click on the picture and then full size in the left lower corner and then click with the mouse again on the plus u have a picture that is large enough even for the bad eye sight :) 

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4 hours ago, Triacon said:

I like the trial assembly idea.  Will do it next time I am at the bench.  Just seems like I have a mixed up bunch of screws.... 12 screws plus the obvious special shaped screws....  Not sure if the group of 5 are all the same or if there are 3 of one size and 2 of another.... Will look at them with microscope next!

Probably not? There should be two short screws for the pallet fork bridge? Which i could find in the picture? 

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53 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

Click on the picture and then full size in the left lower corner and then click with the mouse again on the plus u have a picture that is large enough even for the bad eye sight :) 

Thanks yes even I could see the difference in the screws.:woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:

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Looks like the 4 large screws are used for the Balance Cock and the Barrel and Train Bridge. Back row, left.

 

Front row, I seperated 1-1-3, but I now feel that the first screw is just like the 3 to the right...  I think that two of the four front row screws are for the pallet bridge, and two are for the date dial guard.

 

Back row right are two screws that don't look alike since I damaged one.  It's counter sink head got pushed off because I forced a long screw from the other side of the movement, (Center wheel bridge) pushing the day jumper plate over the small screw... Center wheel bridge screw should be shorter

 

The screw to the left of them might be fit the setting lever plate , since it has a counter sunk head.

 

I think I am missing a pallet bridge screw. Adding up the screws needed, I think you need 7 on the back of the movement, and 6 on the face side.  I did not mention the screw that holds down the date and day finger.

 

Looking for another  7006A movement that I can use for reference/parts....

 

 

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