After delving through this part of the forums, I found the post on pocket watches and their lubrication and I managed to download the Moebius pdf.
Quite useful info indeed.
Is there a possibility that someone "in the know" would give his opinion on the same subject but specifically for wristwatches?
I would also like some opinions of Augusta oils, as an alternative for Moebius.
I honestly just wanted to know how much it would cost me to fix my meylan stopwatch no. 214 if I were to send it to meylan to fix. I feel i should because on the inside the bezel case said to. And if I choose to send it to meylan then do i just send it or can I set up something online because on meylan's website I can't find anything about repairs or my stopwatch in particular. If you can help with some answers I would greatly appreciate it.
Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site.
brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured?
I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit)
would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change?
paid service of course.
any help advice would be much appreciated
I am relatively new to this hobby. I am an electronics engineer by profession in Los Angeles. I have been designated as the go to person for replacing watch batteries and fixing vintage & modern electronic gadgets for almost my entire life. Recent past, my father told me in casual conversation that his watch was running slow. I didn't know until later on that it was an automatic movement, which got me down this slippery slope. Since then I have downloaded time grapher apps, bought a dedicated chinese time grapher, purchased a set of tools that would rival Marks workshop...lol. I tend to do that, get hooked and immerse myself in things that interest me. I am an amateur radio operator, machinist, wood worker, photographer...on and on. I have learned a lot about a lot of things and have been successful in using that knowledge which keeps me motivated.
I fix and restore old film cameras and have a collection of prized fully functional 40's through 1981 SLR cameras. I got so good at it, I had a steady stream of people willing to pay me whatever I wanted to get their vintage/classic cameras re-sealed, cleaned, lubricated and adjusted. I no longer add to my collection since getting married....lol. But always keep an eye out for a rare find. Before the above, I was into machining. I have a full machining table stop workshop. 14" lathe, 24" 3-in-one lathe/mill,/drill, belt sander, grind/polisher, assortment of dremels and many other goodies. I also learned to MIG weld. I built up a dune buggy single axle carrier trailer for my brother-in-law to drag behind his truck (still in service 7 years later). That was a learning experience. I watched lots of videos and talked to professional welders. Ended up doing exercises of all kinds of welds and cutting them open to see the depth of penetration to learn how to dial in my machine for various thicknesses.
I have many other interests that I have embraced and learned by doing, going to spare you the rest LOL....I am passionate about learning.
My current projects:
1). Refinishing the cabinet and restoring the electronics on a 1930 Philco Model 77 low boy radio.
2). Refinishing and restoring an old library cart. My wife and I have plans for this, maybe a mobile bar LOL...
3). Making a kitchen knife set for my wife. I know, easier to buy, but for me it's all about the journey. I made my first Santoku and she uses it a lot. Bought metal blanks, shaped and grinded it (via printed template from pictures) into what looks like a pretty good knife that holds its edge well.
4). Restoring a 1980 Star Wars themed alarm clock. I have the old record player mechanism working. The Bradley wind up clock is running slow even when the external speed adjustment is maxed out at the ++ mark. That should be a learning experience.
5). Assembled an ETA 2824-2 movement watching Mark's and other videos on youtube. It is in a beautiful watch now (for my dad's birthday) that I built from German and Swiss part sources. I ran into the problem where the stem would not fit back in the mechanism while fitting a new stem/crown to the case. Thanks Mark for the detailed video on how to fix that, took me about 1 hour of trying various things before I figured it out. Watch works wonderfully, in beat in 5 positions and my worst is +3 seconds per day, stem up. Dial up it bounces between +1 and 0.
I will ask a lot of question so please bear with me, this is all still new to me :)
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am working on a Bifora 910 manual wind movement.
The movement was cleaned and oiled yesterday and I have been testing the performance.
I noticed that when the watch is fully wound, the amplitude reaches somewhere above 300 and rate gets super high.
However after about 5 minutes, both amplitude and rate plunge to a very low state.
I thought mainspring was the reason so I took the barrel out, cleaned the mainspring and applied 8200 oil again only to get the similar result.
What do you think is the problem and what can be done??
I am always thankful for your help.
this is when fully wound
After 5 minutes
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Your original description reminded me of a recent problem I had with a different movement. I switched screws.......The head on the screw holding the pallet cock turned out to look the same, but had a minutely thicker head. This caught the balance and stopped it. I felt really silly but it was a very rewarding fix!
If you didn't clean the balance jewels introducing fresh oil could dislodge the old gummed up oil and make things worse. I'm afraid you you wont make much progress without cleaning the balance jewels. Assuming you have checked that all jewels are clean and balance pivots are not bent bu the problem still persists,... I would check the endshake of the balance. A watch this old may have had the balance staff replaced and the replacement may not have been an exact fit. On most watches you can adjust the endshake a bit by pushing the jewel housing in the mainplate up or down a bit (using a staking set). Note that this may change the interface between roller jewel and pallet fork so this needs to be considered. On larger mens watches you can sometimes get a screwdriver between the hairspring coils to remove the jewels but on these smaller ladies watches its not so easy. Good luck Anilv
Hello all, Imnew to the group, been collecting for only a short time. saw Marks youtube vids, and gave a crack at the basic course. I've retired from the open heart team and very used to working with loops on mm objects. This subject of watchmaking has always interested me, but family and work always to precedence.
I have a Solution - Clear nail polish Find an inconspicuous spot then under magnification put a small drop on the tip of a pin and try to mix it into the plastic. If it polish changes colour you have your glue if not, let it set to see how well it adheres anyway. If above fails try another brand - nail polish is just a solution designed to dissolve shiny plastics an their additives.