After delving through this part of the forums, I found the post on pocket watches and their lubrication and I managed to download the Moebius pdf.
Quite useful info indeed.
Is there a possibility that someone "in the know" would give his opinion on the same subject but specifically for wristwatches?
I would also like some opinions of Augusta oils, as an alternative for Moebius.
I honestly just wanted to know how much it would cost me to fix my meylan stopwatch no. 214 if I were to send it to meylan to fix. I feel i should because on the inside the bezel case said to. And if I choose to send it to meylan then do i just send it or can I set up something online because on meylan's website I can't find anything about repairs or my stopwatch in particular. If you can help with some answers I would greatly appreciate it.
Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site.
brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured?
I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit)
would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change?
paid service of course.
any help advice would be much appreciated
I am relatively new to this hobby. I am an electronics engineer by profession in Los Angeles. I have been designated as the go to person for replacing watch batteries and fixing vintage & modern electronic gadgets for almost my entire life. Recent past, my father told me in casual conversation that his watch was running slow. I didn't know until later on that it was an automatic movement, which got me down this slippery slope. Since then I have downloaded time grapher apps, bought a dedicated chinese time grapher, purchased a set of tools that would rival Marks workshop...lol. I tend to do that, get hooked and immerse myself in things that interest me. I am an amateur radio operator, machinist, wood worker, photographer...on and on. I have learned a lot about a lot of things and have been successful in using that knowledge which keeps me motivated.
I fix and restore old film cameras and have a collection of prized fully functional 40's through 1981 SLR cameras. I got so good at it, I had a steady stream of people willing to pay me whatever I wanted to get their vintage/classic cameras re-sealed, cleaned, lubricated and adjusted. I no longer add to my collection since getting married....lol. But always keep an eye out for a rare find. Before the above, I was into machining. I have a full machining table stop workshop. 14" lathe, 24" 3-in-one lathe/mill,/drill, belt sander, grind/polisher, assortment of dremels and many other goodies. I also learned to MIG weld. I built up a dune buggy single axle carrier trailer for my brother-in-law to drag behind his truck (still in service 7 years later). That was a learning experience. I watched lots of videos and talked to professional welders. Ended up doing exercises of all kinds of welds and cutting them open to see the depth of penetration to learn how to dial in my machine for various thicknesses.
I have many other interests that I have embraced and learned by doing, going to spare you the rest LOL....I am passionate about learning.
My current projects:
1). Refinishing the cabinet and restoring the electronics on a 1930 Philco Model 77 low boy radio.
2). Refinishing and restoring an old library cart. My wife and I have plans for this, maybe a mobile bar LOL...
3). Making a kitchen knife set for my wife. I know, easier to buy, but for me it's all about the journey. I made my first Santoku and she uses it a lot. Bought metal blanks, shaped and grinded it (via printed template from pictures) into what looks like a pretty good knife that holds its edge well.
4). Restoring a 1980 Star Wars themed alarm clock. I have the old record player mechanism working. The Bradley wind up clock is running slow even when the external speed adjustment is maxed out at the ++ mark. That should be a learning experience.
5). Assembled an ETA 2824-2 movement watching Mark's and other videos on youtube. It is in a beautiful watch now (for my dad's birthday) that I built from German and Swiss part sources. I ran into the problem where the stem would not fit back in the mechanism while fitting a new stem/crown to the case. Thanks Mark for the detailed video on how to fix that, took me about 1 hour of trying various things before I figured it out. Watch works wonderfully, in beat in 5 positions and my worst is +3 seconds per day, stem up. Dial up it bounces between +1 and 0.
I will ask a lot of question so please bear with me, this is all still new to me :)
Hello dear watch repairers.
I am working on a Bifora 910 manual wind movement.
The movement was cleaned and oiled yesterday and I have been testing the performance.
I noticed that when the watch is fully wound, the amplitude reaches somewhere above 300 and rate gets super high.
However after about 5 minutes, both amplitude and rate plunge to a very low state.
I thought mainspring was the reason so I took the barrel out, cleaned the mainspring and applied 8200 oil again only to get the similar result.
What do you think is the problem and what can be done??
I am always thankful for your help.
this is when fully wound
After 5 minutes
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I certainly did not want to replace the motor, as this is so very visible, all attempts at maintaining the illusion of originality would fail. A solution to the problem could only be achieved with a safer, replacement speed control, which could work with the original mains voltage motor. Fortunately, these are readily available in the form of a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM), motor speed controller circuit. These will take in the 220V incoming mains supply and provide a variable output of between 50V and the incoming supply voltage. These are well known devices and proven to work with even simple (old) motors. So, a PWM circuit was obtained (at incredibly reasonable cost), and measured up. In an attempt to at least have the "illusion" of originality, I was determined to use the original hole for the rotary speed control, as well as the original Bakelite control knob. With the shaft on the rotary potentiometer too short for this, I had to do some more metal bashing. As can be seen below, I used the old rheostat as a donor, for a short length of it's shaft, which I would mate to the new potentiometer, allowing the Bakelite knob to operate. This was cut to shape and filed to mate with the new potentiometer shaft. This was then soldered together and thus ready for installation. You can see in the photo, the size and technical comparison between the old rheostat and the new PWM controller circuit.
Next up is the motor speed control. I did think long and hard about my original aim of maintaining as much originality as possible. And, there is no doubt that the original speed control rheostat was a) original and b) functional. But - as I was an electronics technician in an earlier life, and also health and safety professional in a more recent life, the safety aspects weighed heavily upon my concience. Logic played it's part as well - with the original rheostat put back into service, albeit with some hand-made guarding to keep out the fingers of the unwary, it would be safe-ish, for me to use, as long as I kept my wits about me. BUT NOT SAFE FOR ANYONE ELSE unaware of what was underneath. Only the knowledge of what lurked underneath would be keeping me safe, but anyone else might not have a second chance. As can be seen from the photo below, all of the wire on the resistors is not only unguarded, but within millimetres of the level of the base. Also, the incoming mains terminals to the rheostat are also dangerously unguarded. With today's knowledge, it is difficult to fathom how this ever could have been considered safe to use.
Back to the job in hand. I managed to find the cork I thought I may have had, lurking in a box under the stairs. It was the most part of an A4 sized sheet, so more than enough for my purposes - to sit the jars on whilst they are in the machine. Looking at the metal bases, I really can't be convinced if there ever was any cork or any other material for that matter there. But for me anyway, the idea of the glass jars sitting directly on the metal base just seems wrong and I would prefer some cork there as a cushion. It's about as tidy as it needs to be, given the shape of the metal webbing. I suppose I could have cut-out squares of cork, but then it would leave potential weak, unsupported areas of cork, which would likely need some form of strengthening. Anyway - this application suits me and helps the jars sit a bit more stable in their locations. Whilst I am in the vicinity, so to speak, I have also added an earth lead which will bond the chassis to the incoming mains lead, once fitted. This is visible in these photos.
A little further research and then on with the show... A quick browse through patent databases, shows that one Saul Lanzetter applied for and was awarded a patent for this design of watch cleaning machine in October 1937. A brief narrative is reproduced here: Interestingly, the patent application is entitled "Improvements in apparatus for cleaning watch parts and other small parts of machinery." It may be reading too much onto this title to assume that there may have been a previous patent, pre-dating this one, as this one refers to "improvements". Also of interest, there were 2 patent applications from US companies in 1944 and 1945 which cite the Lanzetter patent, and three from Germany in 1956, 1960 and 1961 (only one of which was actually published), which also cite the Lanzetter patent as a reference. Incidentally - the two US patents refer to machines which look strikingly similar to the National Model VI-C above, and the National No 4. machine in the earlier advert, showing the four jars side by side ( this seems to be referred to as a lab machine, rather than a repair shop machine). Naturally, all patents or applications referred to above are now expired. For me anyway, I think this may clear up which watch cleaning machine may have come first (at least in this machine format anyway): The S. Lanzetter National Electric Watch Cleaning Machine, circa 1937.