Jump to content

Elgin with a puzzling case


Recommended Posts

Hi,
   I have taken in a couple of watches to repair. One an elgin pocket watch, is a puzzle in that it doesn't appear to have a case back and also doesn't appear to swing out from the front. When I remove the front bezel the movement does have a bit of play but not enough to allow movement to come on out. I have looked at it with two different loupes and a 20x powered microscope but can't see a seam for a back. If it were a wristwatch I would say it was a front loader and remove the stem and be good to go. Anyone had any experience with this case? Any ideas on how to proceed would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Charles K

DSCN3105.JPG

DSCN3106.JPG

DSCN3103.JPG

DSCN3104.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Charles,

On the third picture it appears like there is a small indentation to hook a knife and open...is that so? I believe if so, you will have access to the movement holding screws and clamps (if so equipped) then you will be able to remove it from the front...Just a guess!

Cheers,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometimes these cases have knurling sometimes they don't. Definitely looks like a screw back to me. If it's jammed through lack of maintenance you can try some WD40 around the edge and leave for a day. You could try and prise it off, if the thread is slack you might get lucky and lift the case back thread from the case thread but you risk damage.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To answer Bob there is definitely no slot for a knife. I can't even see a seam to imply that it would be a screw off back. I thought that it was a screw off at first but nothing budged at all when I tried to move it, I tried barehanded then with a gripper and nothing.The lever you see at about 1:30 is the set lever. I would feel better about it being a screw off back if I could see the seam where the back fits however I guess it could be so tight that I can't. Odd thing is front bezel screwed off easily and in fact it was just barely screwed on. You can probably see all the grime around the threads. Just finished the other one he wanted repaired. That one was a Tankard with a 17 jewel AS movement that was also in bad need of a cleaning and had a bent hairspring. Guess I'll see what my wife wants for dinner while I think about the elgin a bit more.

Thanks,

Charles K   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Elgin movements do have a lever you can pull out but that's to disengage the keyless work. To stop drag when wound outside the case and can't be seen when in the case. And looks nothing like the Lever showing on your watch

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, digginstony said:

The Lever between 1 & 2 must be the release. What other purpose would it serve ? Never came across it before. Think Oldhippy has.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

It's a set level movement, like all railways movement,  you pull it to set the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do have a pocket watch by Hunt & Roskell with a push in lever to adjust the time. Pictures below. So to go back to the original question. It has to be a screwback case. Problem with these cases, as you loosen the bezel you tend to tighten the back cover if you don't hold them a certain way. I do like these type of cases though.6098c63f0f92c0902b694a4198c3506d.jpg1e284d275dc3ba477951841d19dc0c6f.jpg

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok I am now working on the assumption that the case back is a screw off back. So far I have tried opening it barehanded, used a gripper, latex gloves managed to cause my left thumb to ache a lot while I was attempting to open it with my right hand. I read somewhere that someone used hotmelt glue to glue the caseback to something you could grip and turn easier but I tried that three times and so far that back hasn't moved a fraction. I do have some screw thread loosener fluid but I have never had much luck with that. I have never had a pocket watch be this stubborn. The case actually looks pretty nice and I don't want to damage it so any other ideas out there would be appreciated.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

   Just to let you all know my wife came up with the answer. She said that I had tried the hot melt glue but why not stick the watch to the tile on her kitchen counter so I could push down a bit as I was turning to keep the hot melt from breaking loose. I'm attaching a picture of the railroad grade movement I found as well as the new watch tool she developed.

Thanks to all,

Charles K.

DSCN3109.JPG

DSCN3107.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

   Since I posted this I realized there were some members who weren't familiar with the lever set railroad watches. As I working on this watch I took a bunch of pictures and will post them under another thread.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

15 hours ago, CKelly said:

As I working on this watch I took a bunch of pictures and will post them under another thread.

Excellent! errr....walkthrough section??? YES!!!

Thank you Charles.

Cheers,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

  I believe the lever set movement was required by the railroads for fear that a person might change the time while winding a pendant set movement. To set the time on a lever set you have to remove the front bezel, pull the lever then set the time.  I just saw a listing of railroad requirements stating jewel count, and time keeping ability and so on but for the life of me I can't remember where.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Modular Movement Holder.pdf  
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
    • Good job, that band matches the watch perfectly.
×
×
  • Create New...