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URIKA with HAMAZAWA 5026B movement


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Hello a few months ago I picked a nice Helbros manual wind watch with a movement I hadn't seen before the hamazawa 5026 unfortunately it was missing its stem and setting lever.After checking cousins and other outlets without any luck I laid the watch to one side thinking I'd never find the parts needed. Then a month or so ago while trawling through our friend The watch collectors bay site for a couple of Seiko movements I spotted a set of 4 URIKA zombies with low and behold HAMAZAWA movements I quickly purchased these for a mead 8 quid plus his usually packing and waited not very patiently for them to arrive. One I've used as a donor for my Helbros which now runs beautifully and can be seen in watch of the day the other 3 I intend to bring back to life if possible.  So here is number 1 a URIKA 56 auto 17 jewel 5026B. Oh and please excuse my photography I'm definitely not David Baily

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As you can see old battered and generally zombiefied.

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And with the back off we find a none running stuck 5036B movement I don't hold out much hope at this moment.

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Luckily once the plastic case ring was removed the rotor swang free it was just welded in with the green crud. Note the winding stem very unusual I haven't seen one like it before.

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Dail side bit crusty but ill just clean the parts the best I can I'm not going to try and find replacements.

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Calendar side bit better.

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First job remove the circlip holding the rotor in place.

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Rotor removed giving me my first idea of how much dirt I have to tackle.

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As you can see not the most complicated of self winding systems. Just a pivot point and an offset pivot on the rotor.

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Winding system removed time to remove the bridge and what looks like the balance cock

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Cock removed note that the balance adjustment lever is attached somehow to the main plate.

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Bridge off I like the way the wheels have corresponding  holes in the according to there position in the train.

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Wheels and barrel removed I can't remove any of the setting system except the lever its all spot welded together very strange. The balance is removed and that's all I can do on this side.

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First remove clip from the center plastic pinion to free day dial.

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plastic setting wheels nice.

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Date ring and center plate removed and that's about it all parts were pegwood cleaned then ultrasonically cleaned before reassembly. I had no idea what the oiling and greasing should be as I couldn't find any tech sheets so I've oiled as you would an ordinary auto movement.

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movement cleaned and oiled and back in it case running smoothly with a beat error of .1ms and loosng 3 secs a day face down and 8 face up amplitude I think is a little low tho at 230 but that may rise after a day or so running.

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Glass polished nice surprise that its a prism type.

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Dial and hands cleaned still a bit worn looking but I think it adds character. So that was an enjoyable service and clean I'll add a strap and put it in my collection.

Mick

 

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Hi Cad,

Thanks for posting... I've seen these watches on the same site before but didn't pay much notice as I figured it wouldn't be worth the trouble....looks like I was wrong!

That upside down balance is out of this world. Is the hairspring pinned to the mainplate or is there another piece that it is fixed to?

A lot of things are very 'Seiko', the autowinding for one. The shock protection as well.

Interesting! I'll probably pick up some the next time I order from thewatchcollector.

Anil 

 

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It's like an ordinary balance just upside down the hairspring beat error adjuster and hairspring adjuster are fixed to main plate and not removable tho. Very strange setup but easy to get back together in fact every thing was really simple to do it was a pleasure to service and not frustrsting in any way.

Mick

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    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
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