Jump to content

Remove a BREITLING HANDS ETA 7750 CHRONO.


Recommended Posts

Hello, 

I have a hard time to remove the BREITLING ETA7750 chrono second hand, 

It is so tight ...I am afraid damaging the hand and chrono wheel inside. 

I need your suggestion ....thank you very much

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, avkxyz said:

Thank you RO63, :biggrin:
Yes, its the same movement. However, I cannot remove the second counter Hand (the one on the center). It is so tight. I am afraid damaging the parts if I pull harder. . 

It can't be that tight, because its a very small small area of friction. However, someone wrote that it's easier to push small hands out with the dial itself (clear plastic applied for protection and loss prevention). 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A watchmaker friend of mine says that whenever he services a breitling that has never been serviced before, the seconds hand always comes off the tube. He just puts it back on with a staking set. I don't have any advice, that's just what I've heard about this, not sure if there is a way around it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, SSTEEL said:

fit under the hand, and firmly pull upwards.

Absolutely, good advise, otherwise the tube may come apart and you will have to source another hand! This is very important since they are usually tight.

Cheers,

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2016/5/20 at 5:21 AM, HorologicalHobby said:

A watchmaker friend of mine says that whenever he services a breitling that has never been serviced before, the seconds hand always comes off the tube. He just puts it back on with a staking set. I don't have any advice, that's just what I've heard about this, not sure if there is a way around it.

It's a good advice indeed. Thank you 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2016/5/21 at 1:51 PM, SSTEEL said:

I usually remove the main chronograph hand with a presto tool, but not using it as normal, but to simply fit under the hand, and firmly pull upwards.

thank you SS Steel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2016/5/21 at 8:35 PM, bobm12 said:

Absolutely, good advise, otherwise the tube may come apart and you will have to source another hand! This is very important since they are usually tight.

Cheers,

Bob

It is not easy to source a original hand. I am afraid tube come apart. ...... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2016/5/21 at 6:05 AM, HorologicalHobby said:

I didn't think you could reach the bottom of the hand tube, if it's exposed then it's by far the best option!

No you can't reach the bottom of the tube.  I am afraid tube come apart. .when pull harder..... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2016/5/20 at 10:43 PM, jdm said:

It can't be that tight, because its a very small small area of friction. However, someone wrote that it's easier to push small hands out with the dial itself (clear plastic applied for protection and loss prevention). 

shouldn't be that tight...however they made it so tight to avoid it loosen ....

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...