Jump to content

Trench Watch Ww1?


Recommended Posts

I'd be very wary of these "trench watches" - there are so many of them out there. They may well be 1910s - or 1920s - or even 1930s. Unless they're silver and hallmarked - or unless they have a WW1 Ministry of War marking (crow's foot or "pheon") on the back, I never touch them.

 

There's a vogue for things military, and sellers try and cash in on this. Same with "railroad" watches - many are simply not RR grade.

Edited by WillFly
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A wise man indeed Mr WillFly, thank you, I will check this out when I see the watch in my dirty little mits, I've only seen these photos of it.  Thank you. :thumbsu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It appears to have a base metal case and the movement looks very basic and cheaply made. I cannot see a makers mark or serial number on it either.

If it runs and you like it that's fine, but I wouldn't pay much money for it.

Sorry to be so negative!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I think you need to make a distinction between a watch worn in the trenches and a military 'issued' watches.

 

In this case I can imagine this being a personal watch of a soldier in the trenches as opposed to a watch paid for by HM govt and issued to a soldier.

Whenever I see these old watches I always think back to how old my ancestors were at the time... In this case assuming it came from 1915, my grandpa was only 10 yrs old and there was no electric supply in the village he grew up. He only saw the first motor car when he came to a bigger town to work in 1922!

 

We tend to look at watches as part of life today but in those days they cost a bigger chunk of their salary ... a different time.

 

Wear it and enjoy the sense of history... but don't pay too much for it.and don't expect to make money from selling it!

 

Anil

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good points, Anil. In fact, I'd go even further. There's not only a distinction to be made between a real trench watch, i.e. one used in the trenches, and military-issue watches, but also between real military-issued watches and non-military watches with a military styling and design. And, if you want to complicate matters even further, there are watches which were bought by the War Department and engraved with military markings - but never actually issued and then sold as army surplus. Ebay is riddled with all these categories and it can be a minefield to sort through when looking for the right article.

 

The point that I was making is that you see lots of these "trench" watches on eBay, and part of their selling/marketing play is to cash in on the current vogue for military watches, and for WW1 timepieces and militaria in particular. Many of those advertised as such are simply not - and they're a con. This is not to say that they're not decent watches - they may well be - but they're being offered under false pretences and sometimes at inflated prices. That's why I'm so picky about what I buy - and I never buy to make money, just for the love of the item.

Edited by WillFly
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to add a point: Here's an example of what looks like a perfectly decent watch currently for sale on eBay:

 
Auction no: 161312302077
 
Probably 1920s - no idea what the movement's like as there's no pic or description, but there's no false advertising in the auction here - no "trench watch" or "WW1 watch" or "Officer's watch" - which you see all the time - just a straightforward description of what was quite a common watch of its period.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

At the risk of being boring or over-egging the pudding, here's an eBay item for sale described as "Officer`s Trench" Swivel Lugs Enamel Dial BUREN Wristwatch circa 1914 -1918"

 

Auction no: 151308395053

 

Not a shred of evidence in the watch itself for the usage or the date. That's what I mean by misleading advertising...

Edited by WillFly
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Hi, new to site, seeking help. Have a watch just like member DMS from Milton Keynes who asked for aid in May 2014 re. a ww1 era wristwatch.

Don't know much about it except it runs, hands turn, but they won't adjust as winder won't seemingly pull out to release them.

My question is - there is a separate button beneath the winder - does anyone know what this is for - I have no idea how to use the watch if there is some sequence or trick to adjusting/resetting the time?

Thanks in advance

Neil

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...