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Watch bracelet refinish

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blueapple Member

blueapple

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When I remove scratches from watch case and bracelet, I use a hand rotary tool for polish and sandpapers for sand(brushed?) finish. I don't have a professional tools like bench grinders.

Although it's far from professional job, I can polish and refinish watch cases to some degree.

But now I hit the wall.

gucci-silver-silver-5500m-timepiece-watc

GUC47200_1_enlarged.jpg

This is GUCCI 5500M. As you see there are polished part and another part(I don't know what you may call it)

I already polished bracelet and am trying to refinish it close to original as much as I can.

I've tried 400~2000 grit with unwanted SS bracelet but it doesn't seem close enough. 

Does anyone know tips? Thank you.

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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Posted

Polished parts are easy to do with a rotary tool, but if you're doing buffing to remove dents or big scratches a bench motor is needed.. For brushed parts what mostly matter is the grain of the abrasive, pads are very good too, and that strokes are perfectly linear. For that reason sometime the part is let slide against a guide. There are many youtube video on the subject.

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      I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
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      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
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      Setting lever spring

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
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