Junghans J 87 Movement November 1961

[AlexanderB]

So I'm for now. Before I come to regulating the watch, here are some pictures of the assembly. Pretty much straight forward. Nothing special. Maybe one thing I should mention: I almost lost the spring of the Incabloc that is in the cock, while inserting it. 

I realized two things (only a beginner can realize):

• My No. 3 tweezers are too big for the tiny spring
• A No. 5 pair of tweezers worked much better
• A tiny piece if Rodico did an even better job!

To mount the setting lever I grabbed everything with Rodico. Works just perfect:

Inserting the spring for the keyless work went like this: 

• Align the spring with the short side in the plate
• Hold the spring in the stud and gently push the long side in place with another pegwood

Here are some more nice pictures

 

[AlexanderB]

Final picture:

Very short movie

 

 

 

[AlexanderB]

After that I put it on the timegrapher:

Although the photo is a disaster, you can see that it was running very well without any further regulation face down.

Face up was a totally different story! In one word: terrible, devastating, catastrophy! OK, these were already three words. I could add some cursing but this would violate the forum rules. For the time being I stick with: 

First theory: since the balance wheel is "sitting" on the Incabloc of the cock, it could be a problem here. I disassembled the Incabloc once more, cleaned it again, cleaned the pivot of the balance wheel. To no avail. Pretty much the same picture.

OK, what next?

• I disassembled the balance wheel again. 
• Looked at the play of the pallet fork, which was significant.
• Pressed down the pallet fork bridge with a hand setting tool (blunt end) carefully. 
• Play got a bit better
• Reinstalled the balance 

Back to the timegrapher:

PERFECT results after a bit of regulating.

Please, remember, that you owe me your comments on my US cleaning! 

I consider this a success!

Cheers Alexander

[AlexanderB]

3 hours ago, bobm12 said:

to me, the fact that the bridge is a little bent on that side appears to have disturbed the end shake/adjustment of the movement/wheel.

You were spot on Bob! 

Cheers Alexander

[bobm12]

Thanks Alexander! 

Since you asked about cleaning, this is my way of cleaning (btw, I use a less impressive ultrasonic machine  ).

These are the solutions I use:

 +  

Also, these are the 2 sizes of baskets I use:

  +  (16mm and 23 mm diameters respectively). As a side note, I have the copper rounded ones like yours but I didn't like them much. Somehow the little stuff tend to "disappear" and/or get stuck. Those bergeon ones, although expensive, are much, much better.

My system:

3 min each cycle: one cleaning cycle and 2 rinsing cycles. When the 2nd rinsing solution gets dirty it becomes the first rinsing solution.

I place the baskets into this:

so it is easy to manipulate and that big basket into a beaker. The solutions go in the beaker which goes into the u/s previously "filled" with water. In this fashion, there is NO WATER touching the parts only the solvents in the beaker...but water will transmit the U/S waves to the beaker and the solutions it contains. I've heard that plastic is not a good U/S conductor so I avoid it. I also have a thing for metal and water so I avoid water touching the movement and its parts.

I don't have a heater in my U/S so I blow the parts dry with the hand blower...some people use a hair drier. I DO wash the screws too. Although I have used ONE-DIP for hairsprings and jewel assemblies (all its components) I'm lately using Ronsonol (a type of benzine?) I get good results that way too...and save money in the process. I usually let them seat for a day or overnight in the stuff. I give some shakes to the container to provide agitation. Then I dry them on lint less paper. 

So, I guess there is not much difference between my method and yours...maybe a little detail here and/or there. Only thing I don't like, IMHO, is using water on the parts....and many people do, don't get me wrong...it is just my own thing about it. Some people use alcohol (90+ pure) to remove the residue of the "lighter fluid" they use. Only alcohol can't be used on the pallet fork and on any other spot where there is shellac.

So there you have it, my way of doing it! I hope it is any good to you...I was wondering what U/S do you have and the capacity...I wouldn't need a big one but it would be nice to upgrade to a pro or semi pro one with a heater...although I can tell that the solutions get pretty hot in the regular U/S cycles.

Cheers,

Bob

 

[AlexanderB]

Thank you Bob, this is certainly a very good description. So it seems I am doing quite OK here.

My U/S was only 70 EUR BTW. I had a cheaper one (from Elma!) but it quit after 30min total running time (not in a row).

More opinions on that are very welcome.

Cheers Alexander

[AlexanderB]

One more thing, for those of you who are very precise: the movement is also known as Junghans 687.70 

[AlexanderB]

First observation: the movement stopped after approx 49h. It was fully wound, of course.

Then I fitted the dial, straightened the hands and it runs smoothly not. Let's see if I can find a case for that.

Cheers Alexander

[anilv]

Great post Alexander!

Looking at this movement I see a lot of similarity between this and the citizen 02xx series of movement. The reverse threaded ratchet wheel screw is what triggered my memory as Citizen does this as well. The shape of the set lever bridge is also similar.

Anil

[jdm]

What is the notched plate with which you hold the hand in the last pic?

[AlexanderB]

35 minutes ago, jdm said:

What is the notched plate with which you hold the hand in the last pic?

Hi jdm,

Sorry, forgot to mention it (that's why I took the picture in the first place). It's the Bergeon 30004 Watch Hand Holding Tweezers. I just got it from Cousins UK. I wonder if it's worth the money but I love specialized tools. It holds the hand very well and you can access the entire hand when holding it. I was a little bit disappointed by the quality for the money. But in this case it already helped.

Cheers Alexander

[RyMoeller]

Fantastic write-up and pictures!

I'm quite interested as I recently acquired a Junghans movement as well and was a bit anxious about the shock protection.  Now I have a pretty good idea how to approach those cap stones!

Special thanks to @bobm12 for the tips regarding ultrasonic cleaning.  I have the not-so-great round baskets as well that seem to eat up screws the way the dryer eats socks.  I love the idea of using a beaker in a bath of water too.  I didn't think of that and it's a good way to thrifty with your cleaning and rinsing fluids!

Beautiful work @AlexanderB!  

[AlexanderB]

Thank you for your kind reply @RyMoeller

The other Junghans already arrived and I will work on that, after I finished up on the 2471. I was hoping to insert the dial and movement of this one but it's too small. The dial of the 1958 watch is in a pretty bad condition. Let's see if I can clean that. I have a couple of old dials to do some experiments.

The other Junghans "Trilastic" was from 1958. There is an engravement on the back stating so and so many years for company XYZ. Has anyone yet read Taylor Pearsons book "The End Of Jobs?" I had to smile when I saw the back. No golden watches anymore since you don't leave a company after 30 or 40 years anymore. At least it is not true for the coming generations.

Cheers 

Alexander

[bobm12]

Excellent thread Alexander, as usual. I happen to have received the same "hands" tweezers from bergeon...after a lot of procrastinating. Just needed the right push!

Cheers,

Bob