Jump to content

Ultrasonic cleaner


JoeJBP

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Any opinions on these machines? I don't have a cleaner yet and a growing collection of old watches that need cleaning!

There are hundreds of these available online at a good price so I wondered if anyone had one or had used one in the past. 

Joe. 

 

image.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It looks like a Chinese generic model although I can't be certain. Even if it is it does not mean it will be a poor performer. I use a similar looking model from

http://www.allendale-ultrasonics.co.uk/

and I am very pleased with it. Maybe if you are to use it every day for long periods, then you should look for a seriously industrial bit of kit, but for the times I use mine for clock and watch parts it has never let me down.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Spandrel,

It will probably be used once a week at the most. I checked the link, which model do you have? There are some on there that are around my price range and I'm happier to go with a recommended one than one I don't know. 

Regards

Joe. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. This looks like a much better place to get one than a certain auction site.

Is cavitech the function that alters the frequency so as not to cause dead spots in the cleaning area? How important do you think a heated cleaner is?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The "Cavitech" function refers to a special setting for degassing the cleaning fluid pror to cleaning and also the facility for setting the machine to half power for delicate items.

The heating function is desirable if you are using the machine for multiple short cleaning cycles throughout the day as it maintains whatever temperature you have set the machine to rather than allowing the fluid to go cold. I still pre-heat my fluids before pouring it in to the machine as the heating power of the tank alone is quite small.

Edited by Spandrel
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's interesting. So if I am just using it a couple of times a week I'm just as well to get a non heated one and fill it with warm water?

I haven't decided just yet but I think I may be making a purchase today! I will let you know which one I go for. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have this exact machine. It works well. It should come with a basket. You'll want to obtain some glass jars with chemically resistant lids for your cleaning solutions which you place in the basket with the tank filled up with a bath of plain water. I've been told that for this water bath you want to use regular tap water since the mineral content helps propagate the sound waves. 

Some people use the tank itself for a cleaning solution but you can only use a water based cleaner this way in the main tank. And it doesn't provide an easy method to implement rinsing solutions unless you buy one or two extra of these machines. 

Instead of jars you can use plastic bags containing the cleaning solution and parts then just float the bags on top of the filled tank. But you can be somewhat limited in what you choose to use as a cleaning solution in the plastic bags. Mineral spirit based commercial products should be fine but home brews can be problematic depending upon what you use for ingredients. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, if it's good enough for NASA :biggrin:

Cheers for the info. I don't have any parts cleaning solution yet but I put a dirty metal strap and case in last night with some detergent and it worked well. I just put them straight in the basket. 

Which solution and rinse do you use?

Joe. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use elma 1:9 as cleaning solution and Elma Suprol as rinse, set it universal as it can be used in both ultrasonic and normal cleaning machines. Most of cleaning solutions are water based so you need rinse bath with something which repel water.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm sure you will get help on here soon.  Kkramme we like new members to make an introduction before posting. A little about your self such as where you life and what got you interested in Horology  
    • I'd be grateful for recommendations of good sources of advice on getting clocks with balance spring - as opposed to pendulum - escapements 'in beat'.....
    • Well I am in a bit of a quandary. I can't find the correct colour for the dial. I even wrote to Hettich a while back hoping they would give me the colour code for the dial. The reply that I received was "We don't make those anymore." I am thinking now to silver the dial and use a water transfer decal to put minute markers and the HETTICH logo (which is the very font that this forum uses) and the Made in Germany down the bottom. Not sure of the success rate of the water transfer method, but I have no other solution for the markers and logo. Handpainting is just not an option. In trying to get the top piece of the clock polished, it has progressively lost its sharp edges. My stupid hamfisted effort. I am thinking of purchasing a replacement piece of brass and drilling new holes in it for the corner posts. Why I attempted to repolish using wet & dry and not simply using a paint remover to remove the old lacquer from the brass, I don't know. You whistle and I'll point at the idiot. I also need to purchase some sheet spring steel as the two small ratchet springs that arrest the wheel that supports the weight after it is lifted by the electromagnet are worn. The two from the donor clock that I purchased are worse. I am hoping that I will be able to manufacture new springs without having to fiddle about with tempering etc to the steel. I have some ideas on that front. How many things until the clock is no longer the original? Like an axe. Heard a woodchopper on tv once saying that he had replaced the head on his axe twice and the handle three times, but it was the same axe that he began woodchopping with. 😉 I must post more often or read back through what I have previously written. Keep repeating myself. Sigh.
    • I use the exact OD and it fits in with a little force and a pleasing 'click' so it's snug and wont rotate within the holder, but that depends on how you have set up and calibrated your printer so you may need to play with the settings/dimensions a little to allow for any discrepancies in your printer calibration. PS I just finished (2 days ago) a new revision which automatically prints the movement OD on the bottom of the holder, I'll see if I can upload it here Here is rev 4 remember to change the .pdf to .FCStd so it will open in FreeCAD - also you may need to install the LiberationSansBold font and tell FreeCAD where it lives on your PC, or change the font to something you already have on your system. Para Movement Holder V4.pdf Examples below:
    • Only someone on this forum would ever understand the Oooooo I just did
×
×
  • Create New...