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    • By George19
      Hello,
      Now going to tackle my second Seiko repair after fixing a displaced 7S26-C rotor/bearing (posted in another thread). I'm still a newbie at all of this, but learning by watching, reading and doing. I'm really enjoying the work, I wonder why I did not learn this art years ago.
      I was given a Seiko 7009-3040 automatic for free. I took a look at it and saw that is had a bent second hand. Closer inspection showed the little [ S ] emblem has been disconnected from the face and is rolling around between the dial and the face (show here resting next to the 4 o’clock position. It was actually in the day/date window hiding at first. After a bit of tapping it came out.
      I was thinking it might be not too hard to fix?  Separate the  movement from the case of course. Then glue the [ S ] emblem back in place on the dial using a very small amount of super glue. I can see two small holes for mounting. Bend the second hand back to straight.
      So the real questions are
      is super glue OK for this application, I would assume to let the dial stay out of the case for a day or two to protect the rest from 'glue fogging'. looking a the second hand, I'm almost sure it just might break if I try to straiten it? had anyone else seen this happen, the emblem falling off and fouling the hands? Thank you very much in advance.
      Cheers

    • By Mark
      In this video I am correcting a few mistakes I made in the Seiko 7S26 service and lubrication series of videos.
    • By Mark
      In this video I am correcting a few mistakes I made in the Seiko 7S26 service and lubrication series of videos.

      View full YouTube video
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    • So, I'm gonna try and post a couple of photos shortly, both Seiko of course for reasons stated earlier.   The blue one is apparently called the "ashtray" bezel. It winds, works, keeps good time, over the last 8 hours anyway, the only snag being the day pusher function does not operate every time.  The silver one is a Seiko deluxe which does not wind or work, in fact it makes a disheartening rattly noise when shaken, like something has come adrift inside.  They were purchased as items for me to take apart and study, then hopefully reassemble, having cleaned and lubed.  The ashtray arrived from India today, the deluxe arrived from Japan today, both were ordered last midweek. How easy these days to begin a new hobby, what with international freight, the Internet, and training vids on you tube. I may not even renew my porn subscription, this hobby could save me money!!!   Next purchase will be a set of intro level tools, then to business. 
    • One option for white is to use a toner reactive foil. This is what I used with success: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pcb-trf-white.html I didn't use decal paper for printing but used toner transfer paper. My presumption this would still work with the film-less decal paper. Getting the toner reactive foil to work is tricky though. It requires both heat and pressure. Too much heat and pressure and entire dial turns white. Too little and it would only partially stick. It also requires some brushing to remove any bits of foil left over. It took a lot of time, practice an patience for it to work for me but it is certainly possible. I wouldn't recommend this on a dial you only have one-shot with, try with a blank you can practice with.
    • Ah yes, a coupla good ideas there!  I'll go find a welder and cadge a rod, that's a cheap option. Thank you fellas. 
    • Thanks, nickelsilver!  You mean, the first hairspring, the one still mounted is beyond repair? I haven’t touched it. If it is what you meant, it’s disappointing.  Thanks for the clarification on the vintage tools!
    • Can we have a look at the back. I'm sure the movement comes out from the back. That is not a waterproof case. 
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